Need some concrete footing help

[CurlyDave]

...guess I'll get a marine port-a-potty...

Dig a dry well (hole about the size of a 55 gallon drum, full of gravel) and drain the sink into that. Mount a funnel on the wall and drain that into the same dry well.

 

[markrahn]

for the drain, gray water only, you could build out a 20 foot long by 3 foot wide french drain, just put it about 3 feet deep and line the bottom with about 16 18 inches of septic rock. For those times when you may have a BM experience, you could get a composting toilet.

 

[davygp38]

...guess I'll get a marine port-a-potty...

Dig a dry well (hole about the size of a 55 gallon drum, full of gravel) and drain the sink into that. Mount a funnel on the wall and drain that into the same dry well.

I was thinking of doing this for my new Garage. The problem is, in the peoples republic of New York, everything has to be inspected several times throughout the build. I was thinking of hiding the pipes under the slab, then cutting them out when the build was done but who knows. If anyone has any tricks I could use to sneak the plumbing in it would be appreciated.

 

[Boeing]

"Once upon a time.....there was a new concrete floor to be poured. There was a toilet line (4") with flange set in place. A piece of waxed paper was placed over this toilet flange and concrete was poured for the entire floor. As everything looked like a normal barren floor an inspection was made successfully. After said inspection was finished the waxed paper was gently chipped out and VIOLA....a toilet flange appeared....
But we all know how fairy tales are ficticious...

 

[Boeing]

Dave....or somebody else, should I put in a large conduit from the outside, under/thru the pad and up the inside wall for electricity? or plan on new 'lectricity to go THRU the thin steel wall? I guess a meter would be mounted on the wall, huh? these steel buildings are just so thin....I guess if I...planted a small light pole they could attach to that and go underground to the building.

 

[tommu56]

If the meter is to be on the out side of the building so the reader can read it I would poke through to the panel.

If the meter and disconnect is some were else (in the house or other building) bring it in through the slab don't forget to put a ground rod in too. while you are at it before the pour.

Again you can can rough it in with a female coupling with a flush plug just below the surface (so no one can see it) and chip it out later and run the stub out past the side of the building under ground out of site. just grease the plug and pipe up so the concrete won't stick to it

 

[CurlyDave]

"Once upon a time.....there was a new concrete floor to be poured. There was a toilet line (4") with flange set in place. A piece of waxed paper was placed over this toilet flange and concrete was poured for the entire floor. As everything looked like a normal barren floor an inspection was made successfully. After said inspection was finished the waxed paper was gently chipped out and VIOLA....a toilet flange appeared....
But we all know how fairy tales are ficticious...

I don't think I would put an illegal toilet in an outbuilding. Too much water with each flush, too much sewage, and in most places a big fine if you are caught.

OTOH, every time I am out in the woods and need to go #1, I don't run off looking for a men's room. A dry well, or even a French drain is good for handling small amounts of water.

* * * * * * *

You need more than an electric meter -- you need an electric panel also. And, you need a plan for electrical distribution inside the building. Conduit? Armored cable?

If your plan involves a piece of plywood, or even dimensional lumber to hold the meter and panel that you are going to mount outside the building, mount it on the North side if possible. Sunlight really tears up paint on wood, and facing North minimizes this.;

 

[tommu56]

Don't mount meter socket on any wood put some extra 2X4 wood on the back of the metal and use 4 1 1/2' short lengths of 1" pvc conduit and long lag screws to space the meter socket out from the metal. this will give you about 3/4" from the ribs and 1 1/2" to the flat so no debris collects or it can be cleaned out. Coat the pipe ends with clear silicon caulk and re caulk after its all together.

tom

 

[Boeing]

That's a great idea Tommy....I HATE crushing the steel ribs. And Dave, Thanks, I plan on running romax in the interior, I don't think that requires conduit. If it does then #12 wire thru plastic conduit.
Thanks guys.

 

[CurlyDave]

In CA, where I am re-building my burned down house, exposed romex can not be run less than either 7' or 8' above the floor. I don't remember which but my inspector reminds me.