Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building.

   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building. #41  
I’d love to see/know how you grind the taper I’d like to do that at my 10’ garage door.

I feel your pain I just put a 120’ french drain in to keep water out of our garage.
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building. #42  
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All concrete will crack if you don't put in some form of relief to allow the concrete to do its thing. The idea of cutting lines is that when the stress is relieved as it cures it will follow the lines or expansion joints as it does so, He was also supposed to have fiber added to the concrete mix, but he decided that was not necessary and the end results shows what happens when you don't.
You are getting some misleading information. It's true that all concrete cracks, but those cracks should be so tiny that they are impossible to see.

When a new concrete pad cracks, it's because they used too much water in the mix. They do this because it makes it a lot easier to spread. Excess water has to leave the mix when it evaporates. Water takes up space, and when the space taken up in the concrete pad goes away, then that causes the concrete to crack.

A proper slump is when the concrete does not flow, it piles up on itself and remains in place. This requires a massive amount of effort to spread out. Guys that do this every day would rather have an easy day instead of a hard day. They don't care about your job, they are gone and will never return.

Rebar is the only product that actually holds the cracks together in a concrete pad that actually works. Fiber helps, but it does not replace rebar. Welded wire only works if it's in the middle of the pad, and this is impossible on anything that you walk on when spreading. It's great for walkways, but horrible on building pads. Rebar has to be placed on chairs. The biggest lie in concrete is when a lazy contractor tells you that they will pull up the rebar while spreading the concrete, and it will stay in the middle of the pad while they walk on the rebar. Chairs make it harder for them to walk around while spreading the concrete, so they don't like that either.

It's not uncommon for a large pad to have low areas that only show up when it rains. The pad will have shallow wet areas that might be a quarter inch lower then other areas. That's just from the level of skill from the crew spreading the concrete, and the bigger the pad, the more common it is.

Cutting the pad does several things. When concrete gets hot, it expands. When it gets cold, it contracts. Concrete roads have to be done in sections so it can expand and contract throughout the year. Some people believe that their building pads also expand and contract, so they want it cut to allow this to happen. In my opinion, it's not needed if there is a building over the concrete. More commonly, people have their pads cut because they believe their concrete work is questionable, and they hope that when it cracks, the cracks will be hidden by the cut lines. If the pad was poured with the proper slump, rebar was used and set on chairs, cracking will be so minor that you will never see it.

Soil compaction under a pad gets a lot of blame for cracking, but this takes years and years to happen. It's not uncommon for there to be hollow areas under a pad. I see this in houses all the time that I'm remodeling. The concrete is strong enough to bridge these gaps and you never know it's happened. The only times that I've ever seen concrete fail from a lack of soil compaction is at the corners of exterior load bearing walls. And it's very obvious, the concrete has broken off and dropped an inch or more. Random cracks in the middle of a pad are not from the soil not being compacted, they are from too much water in the pour.

From what you have posted, it sounds like your concrete contractor was a hack. He may or he may not know what he is doing, either way, he chose to do a poor job for your project. Some do this intentionally to make a quick buck, others just don't care, and if you watch YouTube, you will see quite a few on there that are just clueless.
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building.
  • Thread Starter
#44  
Try Lexel sealant.
The guy that put the building up did use that on that back wall, but it still did not seal. The problem is now trying to find something that will stick to that. I put several different sellers on there but it just peels off. I'll probably have to take a grinder with a diamond wheel to go in there and cut all that stuff out and re-do it.
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building. #45  
The guy that put the building up did use that on that back wall, but it still did not seal. The problem is now trying to find something that will stick to that. I put several different sellers on there but it just peels off. I'll probably have to take a grinder with a diamond wheel to go in there and cut all that stuff out and re-do it.
As I understand what you are saying is that it's NOT rising water that is getting into your building but water running down the side and onto the apron outside of the wall and under the wall into the building.

If that is accurate why would the flashing idea not resolve the issue?
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building.
  • Thread Starter
#46  
You are getting some misleading information. It's true that all concrete cracks, but those cracks should be so tiny that they are impossible to see.

When a new concrete pad cracks, it's because they used too much water in the mix. They do this because it makes it a lot easier to spread. Excess water has to leave the mix when it evaporates. Water takes up space, and when the space taken up in the concrete pad goes away, then that causes the concrete to crack.

A proper slump is when the concrete does not flow, it piles up on itself and remains in place. This requires a massive amount of effort to spread out. Guys that do this every day would rather have an easy day instead of a hard day. They don't care about your job, they are gone and will never return.

Rebar is the only product that actually holds the cracks together in a concrete pad that actually works. Fiber helps, but it does not replace rebar. Welded wire only works if it's in the middle of the pad, and this is impossible on anything that you walk on when spreading. It's great for walkways, but horrible on building pads. Rebar has to be placed on chairs. The biggest lie in concrete is when a lazy contractor tells you that they will pull up the rebar while spreading the concrete, and it will stay in the middle of the pad while they walk on the rebar. Chairs make it harder for them to walk around while spreading the concrete, so they don't like that either.

It's not uncommon for a large pad to have low areas that only show up when it rains. The pad will have shallow wet areas that might be a quarter inch lower then other areas. That's just from the level of skill from the crew spreading the concrete, and the bigger the pad, the more common it is.

Cutting the pad does several things. When concrete gets hot, it expands. When it gets cold, it contracts. Concrete roads have to be done in sections so it can expand and contract throughout the year. Some people believe that their building pads also expand and contract, so they want it cut to allow this to happen. In my opinion, it's not needed if there is a building over the concrete. More commonly, people have their pads cut because they believe their concrete work is questionable, and they hope that when it cracks, the cracks will be hidden by the cut lines. If the pad was poured with the proper slump, rebar was used and set on chairs, cracking will be so minor that you will never see it.

Soil compaction under a pad gets a lot of blame for cracking, but this takes years and years to happen. It's not uncommon for there to be hollow areas under a pad. I see this in houses all the time that I'm remodeling. The concrete is strong enough to bridge these gaps and you never know it's happened. The only times that I've ever seen concrete fail from a lack of soil compaction is at the corners of exterior load bearing walls. And it's very obvious, the concrete has broken off and dropped an inch or more. Random cracks in the middle of a pad are not from the soil not being compacted, they are from too much water in the pour.

From what you have posted, it sounds like your concrete contractor was a hack. He may or he may not know what he is doing, either way, he chose to do a poor job for your project. Some do this intentionally to make a quick buck, others just don't care, and if you watch YouTube, you will see quite a few on there that are just clueless.
Yeah, I hear what you are saying. I have been fooling with concrete for a long time and I get what you are saying. I had the plant come out here to look at what this pad is doing, and they basically said it was the fault of the finisher. They had the record of this pour and told me the batches were all between 3500 and 4000psi mixes when it left the plant and told me that no fiber was ordered. I was there for most of the morning, and I never noticed them adding water, but I guess it is possible. There are several spots in the floor in different places where it had set up and got away from them. There is one section about 10' long where there are bare rock and trowel marks over the whole section.
The original slab had been poured roughly 20 years prior and it never showed but one small crack at the front big door that was about 3' long but very tiny. I have one crack that comes through the back man door and goes all the way, 60' through the front 12' door. Some of them are small in thickness but run halfway across the floor and there are several that are big ugly looking cracks almost a 1/16" wide. There is not a wall in the whole floor that doesn't have 4 or 5 cracks leading from the edge to mid-point of the floor. then there is the 12' wide low place that runs into the center of the floor where it stretches out to an area 30' wide.
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building. #47  
I haven't read the whole story, but I would expect to have water enter the building under the walls unless the floor was higher than the exterior. The walls should sit on a "step" so the floor is higher than the apron on the outside. Caulking will fail.

At the door, there should also be a slight step OR a decent slope going away from the building.

Cracks (at least any visible cracks) can be avoided except at control joints unless some ragtag crew does the work.
 
   / Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building. #48  
I haven't read the whole story, but I would expect to have water enter the building under the walls unless the floor was higher than the exterior. The walls should sit on a "step" so the floor is higher than the apron on the outside. Caulking will fail.

At the door, there should also be a slight step OR a decent slope going away from the building.

Cracks (at least any visible cracks) can be avoided except at control joints unless some ragtag crew does the work.
It amazes me what passes for "Construction" these days.
I have prepped and placed many concrete slabs, concrete properly prepped and placed does NOT crack.

Grading, grading, grading. Perch that slab up 1-2' so you have a positive slope away,
And this allows the siding to come down an inch or 3 on the side of the slab.
 
 
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