Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building.

[Mike sandor]

On the two sides that have the 1’ offset, could you have a sheet metal shop fab up a flashing that reaches out and over the slab and have it pitch up a bit on the wall? It might look a bit funky but eliminating the 1’ lip for water to set on is definitely something you want to fix.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Something like this:

CPS100-10 - 4" Wide Glass Fiber Polyester Trench Drain Kit 10 foot Complete by Trench Drain Supply

3 Meters = 9.85 feet

www.trenchdrainsupply.com

As for the 1' extra concrete pad, simply have it cut off and removed. You can flash over any little bit left if needed. Use Aluminum and have it slightly sloped away from the building.

 

[Mike sandor]

Something like this:

CPS100-10 - 4" Wide Glass Fiber Polyester Trench Drain Kit 10 foot Complete by Trench Drain Supply

3 Meters = 9.85 feet

www.trenchdrainsupply.com

There you go!

 

[Mike sandor]

Possibly seal up the 1’ over hang areas using rubber roofing membrane material. You would have to get access to the wall as you would want to go up the wall a bit with it and drap it over and down the slab. This stuff is typically used on commercial roofs. You would need to install a metal flashing to cover exposed areas but you can get Z flashing made up at just about any size you need at a good tin shop.

 

[mx842]

Ditches all around (french drains maybe), a sloped pad for the big door with a drain around the base of the pad and gutters on the eaves.
Might be costly but it will work.

I don't have a drainage problem as far as water not draining away from the building. There is plenty of slope away from the building once it gets off the concrete. Water hits the concrete then runs to the center of the pad. If you look at the two pics where there is no building you can see how the water puddles to the center.

 

[mx842]

A thought, and I don’t like it but I think it would solve some of the problem. Get a good sized concrete saw and cut two notches the width of a trench drain apart in the open side part of the building as close as you can get to the wall of the enclosed building. I’m talking the full length of the wall. This means you’d then have to pour a bottom to that which slopes to the back and dumps out. It might take a pipe to get it to daylight. You can put a grate over the channel once’s it’s built.

In the back would it help to cut off the concrete?

You could also cut a small square inside the building and have someone directional bore into the building and pull a pipe to the outside. I don’t know if one drain would catch it all though.

It’s a shame, nice looking building.

I've thought about grinding the outside edge on a slope starting as close to the building as possible. I have a guy coming out to look at it and see if that is a workable solution. I'm going to have to get him to also cut out/grind out the areas at the big doors and put in a proper apron that slopes outward. The problem is that this outside edge is the footing and it's 31/2 feet thick. I can't just break it out. I had thought about cutting slots long ways one end of the wall to the other. Make cuts like you would if you were cutting a notch in a 2x4. Many little slices then take a hammer and knock them out. I was thinking about making slices that get progressively deeper as you go outward. Then take self-leveling concrete mix to smooth it out. If that makes any sense.
I guess I could do the same thing to the outside edge of the covered part before I put those walls up.

 

[ruffdog]

 

[LouNY]

If I'm understanding correctly the OP's slab is a monolithic or Alaskan slab were the footers are poured as part of the slab so the outer edge of the slab is the referenced 3 1/2' thick.
To my way of thinking the easiest and likely least expensive would be to cut just shy of a foot off the buildings tin, lay and caulk the sealing edge of a 2x12 against the frame of the building and run flashing under the building tin and over the the edge of the 2x, then pour a 3-4" high strength high bond concrete slab that tapers to an 1" on the outer edge to get good slope away from the building and a good bond to the concrete already poured. It could even be formed and poured out past and down a couple on inches past the outer edge of the existing concrete.

Edit added;
If the water intrusion is from the covered area (porch) and is water being blown or falling on the concrete there, dig down a bit, expand the pad lowering it a few inches and sloping it from the existing pad and extend the roof out .

 

[ruffdog]

That is what I was thinking...some sort of flashing under the metal then going up behind it. Could the front edge of the flashing be cemented in a groove to seal it?

 

[wolc123]

I would mark the spots where the water accumulates the deepest and drill holes thru the concrete there with a hammer drill when it’s dry. There should be crushed stone under the concrete and the water will drain away into that. You should be able to do that in less than 15 minutes. 1/2” hammer drills can be had for around $ 50 from Harbor Freight.

I personally don’t like concrete floors in pole barns. My workshop and porch area is concrete but the storage area (boat, tractors, implements, camper storage) is crushed and compacted stone. No big deal if something drips a little water or oil onto that.

There’s not a crack on any of my concrete (I’m in upstate NY where it gets real cold in the winter). My nephew poured and finished it 5 years ago. He’s very good at flatwork.