Need some suggestions on how to fix water getting into my new building.

[mx842]

Yeah, I put 2 runs of #5 rebar and 2 runs of #4 rebar on 6" centers, one run 1' from the bottom and the next run 6" above that one in the footer plus 7 rolls of the heavy duty roll mesh wire tied into the rebar. If he had come out the next day like he should and cut his lines, there would have been far less cracks than is in there now if any that would be visible. Plus the fiber helps.
The pad where the old building was, was basically the same size and was poured 20 years before and didn't have but one small crack at the corner of the big door at the front of the building. But that was poured by the old guy that used to own this company before he turned it over to one of his boys.

 

[CloverKnollFarms]

We poured a 40x60 floor in our barn two years ago, and cut joints every 10 feet. Not a single crack.
I dont have a lot of suggestions. What a mess, sounds like this fella was overpaid. Our pad was poured within the confines of the walls. What sort of fly by night operation is this?
If it's got gutters, and those still allow this, the real solution is to find a way to get that concrete removed from around the building.

 

[mx842]

Yeah, the first building was a pole barn design and all of the outside 6x6 post sit on piers. I also had that poured after the building was up. I didn't use wire on that one I used #4 rebar on 1' centers or squares because I put pex in the floor that time. This one had to be put on a monolithic pour with a 3' footing.

 

[mx842]

We poured a 40x60 floor in our barn two years ago, and cut joints every 10 feet. Not a single crack.
I dont have a lot of suggestions. What a mess, sounds like this fella was overpaid. Our pad was poured within the confines of the walls. What sort of fly by night operation is this

An operation called Creative Mud in New Kent County Va. I like to advertise for them every time I get a chance.

 

[newbury]

Ditches all around (french drains maybe), a sloped pad for the big door with a drain around the base of the pad and gutters on the eaves.
Might be costly but it will work.

 

[dodge man]

A thought, and I don’t like it but I think it would solve some of the problem. Get a good sized concrete saw and cut two notches the width of a trench drain apart in the open side part of the building as close as you can get to the wall of the enclosed building. I’m talking the full length of the wall. This means you’d then have to pour a bottom to that which slopes to the back and dumps out. It might take a pipe to get it to daylight. You can put a grate over the channel once’s it’s built.

In the back would it help to cut off the concrete?

You could also cut a small square inside the building and have someone directional bore into the building and pull a pipe to the outside. I don’t know if one drain would catch it all though.

It’s a shame, nice looking building.

 

[MapleLeafFarmer]

Fixing drainage on outside of building is my preferred / first thought but if you can't an inside solution like a u-drain may work for you?

I didn't see mention of a budget but retro-fitting a slot drain into an existing concrete floor is very easy.
Drain into a sump pit and pump out is a very elegant solution.

U-Drain

u-drain.ca

 

[Mike sandor]

I had a pool installed when we lived in AZ. The perimeter was concrete, sloping away from the pool. They installed drain channels to direct this water out and away from the pool. They had plastic grid covers on them as well.
when I recently built our new house, I looked at garage floor drains that were similar in design but built heavier to allow for vehicles travel. I did not go with this channel system but it may work well for your problem. Installing is a bit of work as you need to saw cut and hammer out room for the channel system, then grout it in.

 

[Mike sandor]

Similar to Maple Leaf Farmers reply!

 

[Midniteoyl]

A thought, and I don’t like it but I think it would solve some of the problem. Get a good sized concrete saw and cut two notches the width of a trench drain apart in the open side part of the building as close as you can get to the wall of the enclosed building. I’m talking the full length of the wall. This means you’d then have to pour a bottom to that which slopes to the back and dumps out. It might take a pipe to get it to daylight. You can put a grate over the channel once’s it’s built.

In the back would it help to cut off the concrete?

You could also cut a small square inside the building and have someone directional bore into the building and pull a pipe to the outside. I don’t know if one drain would catch it all though.

It’s a shame, nice looking building.

This ^^

Cut a drain as close to the building as is feasible, have it drain out the back or to a pit, cover with a grate.