New guys take on pros & cons of 45 HP range of CUT's

[SPYDERLK]

Cons: Whoever had the idea of putting the hydro pedal and steering brakes on the same side of the tractor should be shot,

I have to say in the last 12 years I have owned 4 Kubota's, all with the brake and hydro pedals on the same side and I can honestly say, I have never even used the brakes except to set the parking brake occasionally. All of these tractors had loaders and used them all the time. The best feature I have found so far for loader work is the Hydr. Dual Speed option on the 40 series. Instead of changing ranges all the time, simply hit the lever and go.

But it looks like you have done a lot of homework and you should buy the one that you are most comfortable with.

Are you familiar with the term "steering brakes"? You can get around using them that way, as you have shown ... but its a handicap that impairs usage of the tractor to its full capabilities.
larry

 

[MessickFarmEqu]

Your way over thinking this whole thing.

 

[eepete]

Lt CHEG: I'm an electrical engineer. I understand and admire your approach and the way you are gathering data to make your decision. And it's taken me decades to get better at overcoming the paralysis of decision making (better, it's a lifetime work).

I would put to you that there is no optimal solution. This is not a N equations and N unknowns scenario. In fact, many of the parameters are intangible and can't readily be quantified (such as "feel of the seat"). So I'm guessing there's a point in the process where you need to view this much like blowing up the Death Star. Listen to the Obi-Wan-Kabota types on this forum, turn off your targeting computer and use the force. Given your up front analysis any choice you make will work for you and you will adapt to and overcome any limitations.

Us geeks output more than our fair share of words in a day, but this is my verbose way of agreeing with Messr. Messick's post.

Pete

 

[ovrszd]

Your way over thinking this whole thing.

 

[Couple of Achers]

Are you familiar with the term "steering brakes"? You can get around using them that way, as you have shown ... but its a handicap that impairs usage of the tractor to its full capabilities.
larry

Yes, I am.

 

[LBrown59]

Having a mower on one tractor while the other has the BH permanently in place would be a real time saver.

 

[LoneCowboy]

Having owned a few of those and seen many more in my workings, that's quite a write up.

My observations.
Kubota's always have small cabs, if you are a big guy, you'll notice it. Otherwise, not an issue.

The NH/Case has BY FAR the best FEL and bucket set up. Fast, strong, easy to see and quick to run. The kubota has a weak quick attach design. The JD has a poor bucket design and most every JD I've seen (maybe they have fixed this) cannot uncurl and lift at the same time. Not a problem until you try to load something tall (like a dump truck/trailer). Up. stop. uncurl, stop, up. stop. uncurl.stop.up. STUPID. Also, many JD's are a proprietary quick attach so you can only use JD attachments. Which pretty much defeats the point of a universal quick attach.

My neighbor has a 55hp JD (4xxx, i dunno) bought the same year as my NH. I have a NH TC45 (45hp). My loader will lift exactly 1650lbs of fertilizer on a pallet. His noticably bigger tractor will only lift 1500lbs of fertilizer on the same pallet, same forks. His just as expensive machine does not have extensible link arms. This is a 35k dollar tractor, there's no excuse for it not to have extensible link arms.

None of the 45hp cab machines make much in the way of PTO HP. You lose 5hp to the HST, you lose 5 more to the A/C. If you live at altitude, a turbo is a must, otherwise, not really an issue.

Had a MF 1433 (same thing as the 1533, now 1633 just earlier model). Most reliable tractor I owned. I abused it just as hard as everything else and the only thing that broke in 500 hours was a $80 PTO switch that took 10 minutes to replace.

The NH/Case has a weak 3 point. Oh, it lifts it all right, it also bends the arms and stabilizer bars over time (side to side, not up/down). (for the same implements that the 33hp MF handled fine). cheap made in china pot metal and poor castings.

I've never noticed the 2 speed hydro on the NH/Case being a problem. turtle for working, rabbit for transporting. flip back and forth high/low within the range with the button on the FEL joystick. Never an issue. The whole point of a HST is to NOT be shifting.

The Kubota system of pedals is different but in 10 minutes you'd never notice it. You simply don't use brakes on HST 99% of the time, you just hit the other pedal.

I honestly don't think you can go wrong with any of them. You are way over-thinking it.

 

[Gittyup]

The amount of land doesn't dictate tractor size, tasks do. Don't let anyone talk you in to buying too small.

If performance in a backhoe or loader is a necessity, you wouldn't be happy with the lighter options like the B3030 or any of the subcuts. Weight is your friend for many tractor chores, especially ground engagement. So, if a 45 HP tractor will fit on your property in the situations you plan to use it, then go that way. If an AC cab is a must for you, then you really don't have much choice than to go bigger, given you don't like the JD 3000 series. Two of the best diggers in the 45 hp class are the heavier tractors, like Kioti and Branson.

As many have said, there is no perfect tractor for all situations. If you can give up the cab, then the kubota industrials like the L39 are super effective. Or a JD 110 or similar.

 

[Lt CHEG]

Lt CHEG: I'm an electrical engineer. I understand and admire your approach and the way you are gathering data to make your decision. And it's taken me decades to get better at overcoming the paralysis of decision making (better, it's a lifetime work).

I would put to you that there is no optimal solution. This is not a N equations and N unknowns scenario. In fact, many of the parameters are intangible and can't readily be quantified (such as "feel of the seat"). So I'm guessing there's a point in the process where you need to view this much like blowing up the Death Star. Listen to the Obi-Wan-Kabota types on this forum, turn off your targeting computer and use the force. Given your up front analysis any choice you make will work for you and you will adapt to and overcome any limitations.

Us geeks output more than our fair share of words in a day, but this is my verbose way of agreeing with Messr. Messick's post.

Pete

See finally someone who understands.

Seriously, I'm always very analytical when making any sort of purchase of more than a few dollars. The fact that I'm Obsessive Compulsive doesn't help either. I of course have come to the same realization that there is no 1 magic answer, nor is there 1 magic tractor that will do everything perfectly. In the end I'd probably rather go bigger than smaller with all else being equal. All the trees are on the perimeter of the property so there's no need to worry about obstacles in the way of mowing. Also I'm not looking to have golf course grass the entire property, I just don't want it looking like total crap. The front yard area that will have to have the nicest grass quality will be much smaller than the rest of the grass and will be maintained by a push mower. Frankly if I could afford to do so I'd probably buy a 75 HP cab tractor with a 15 ft. batwing mower to get done in the least amount of time but I absolutely cannot justify that expense. Ultimately I wanted to share some of my opinions and experiences in tractor shopping with the rest of the TBN community. Plus doing so was almost theraputic.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So, have you come to a conclusion yet? We all want to know.