New Holland Boomer 37 in DPF Shutdown Mode

[sennai]

Thanks to Jrasband for the details.
Thanks to Kevin Launcher for the Youtube video.
Thanks to Ky1200 for the details on the throttle cable and cable stopper.

- I started off by calling for help from the dealer to check for any obvious reasons for the Regen complete failure, their mobile mechanic with a computer did a manual regen at 27K rpm, brought down the soot level from 87% to 20% in 25 minutes. The Warning and DPF lights were gone after the manual regen. He didn’t see any error code or any obvious reason for the failure earlier.

- With no error or fault lights to start with, I did everything Kevin L. had said in his video. The first filter just slid out, but there was no way to get the second filter out without cracking it. For whatever reason if anyone wants to save the second filter, there is a band of cloth/fibre like material as the outer layer of the honeycomb, this band is glued to the inner walls of the dpf chamber, if you can have a thin and flexible blade 3 to 4 inches long and carefully run in between the band and the steel chamber wall, you could it save it.
- Used the same Oregon 60-522 control cable and a set of Dorman 03336 cable stop assortment from amazon, that Ky1200 had mentioned.
- Set the low rpm at 9K-10K, left the high rpm at the factory settings.
- I turn the key ON for the glow plugs to heat up, then turn the key OFF back to turn it back ON again to start the ignition. For whatever reason there is no power for ignition if I try the ignition without turning it OFF back after waiting for the glow plug to heat.
- At this stage when the engine is running, I just get the flashing Warning light and NO DPF lights or the beeping noise.
- I am guessing the DPF lights will come ON when it hits the next 4 hours auto regen cycle, I will give an update then. If anyone knows a way to stop it from going to the regen cycle hours count and the dpf lights permanently OFF, please let me know.
- For the first start there was some exhaust leak around the dpf chamber where the first filter was located, then it disappeared for the later starts or it is not obviously visible.
- Now the tractor sounds like a tractor and not like an aircraft.
- I also get AB04 error code on the display, which is Foot throttle sensor error, which I think is okay to ignore.

Thanks to ALL for sharing their experience here, with these details and help from my friend we were able to get it done before the winter cold.

Cheers.

 

[sennai]

The wires he is rewiring around the ECU(to remove limp mode) straight to the ignition are the ones shutting the tractor off. The other wires going to to the solenoid are left unplugged

How do you protect the unplugged plugs - male and female sides from the elements?

 

[51allis]

Huge huge thanks to jrasband for holding my hand through this.
Here is a video if anyone else stumbles across this.

jrasband and nbabucks1: Ive watched the video and read the posts concerning the "bypass" of the DPF system. I also checked the comments on Youtube where the poster of the video says he had to do something else for the throttle cable as it was under a lot of resistance.

My 2014 XR4046, started having issues at 733 hours on it, at first it would start and run for 20 or so minutes, then it dies. Can restart it and it will run for another 2-3 minutes and die again. Then if you try to restart it yet again, you turn the key and NOTHING happens, it won't even turn over (starter engage etc.) and the glow plug lights will not come on. No trouble codes flashing. If I wait for 2 hours, it will start right back up but again will shutdown after 20 min or so and repeat the same cycle. I have a distinct feeling its the ECU stopping it from starting the 3rd time and with no codes being displayed its probably going bad. I refuse to send it to my closest LS dealer since its out of warranty.

Now, watching the video and reading the posts about the work around, when you remove that cover for the "throttle lever" there are 2 screws but they hold the lever in one position so it doesn't move, when the ECU is controlling the engine. This tells me that something other than the throttle lever where you attached the retrofit throttle cable is controlling the injection pump. So just in back of the injection pump is a solenoid, its called a "Dropping Resistor" LS part # 40285562 . This solenoid appears to be the only way the ECU controls the engine speed, there must be a rod of some sorts that goes back n forth and the solenoid its activated by electronic throttle "potentiometers" (both the dash throttle and foot throttle). So, why can't the solenoid be removed or wired in such a way to keep the using the electronic dash throttle or foot throttles?

I am going to get a service/repair manual and check the wiring diagram and pump diagram to see how the injection pump engine speed is controlled by the ECU. Now if the ECU is trying to shut the tractor off by controlling the injection pump solenoid and a person does the work around, that means the work around throttle cable is going against the injection pump solenoid, they are fighting, electric solenoid is trying to shut the pump off and the work around throttle cable is trying to run he engine??? Maybe just pull the injection pump solenoid right out and plug it off?? before I attempt that, ill need to further understand the diagrams for the parts. I keep asking for a service/repair manual from my local dealer and keep getting a run around but someone has to have one somewhere. Im done with this ECU crap and the DPF. What are either of your thoughts on it? Thanks.

 

[51allis]

Currently researching, did get the service and repair manual for my LS XR4046 tier 4. The solenoid on the back of the injection pump IS what controls engine speed and that is how the ECU controls the pump. The solenoid shaft moves up to 1/2". NOTE: I have not taken my solenoid out yet, too many other projects going on, but the manual states:
Apply 12 volts power on the solenoid connector and confirm the movement of plunger
* Appling must be finished within one minute, if it is greater may cause of internal damage.
● Standard value: The shaft move smoothly (full stroke = 13 mm, 0.51inch)

As you can see the LS service manual is not that great in its description.

When I get the time, the first thing I'm going to do is verify the movement of the solenoid shaft and which direction it goes in to shut off tractor so that I know that if I remove the solenoid and key switch power the fuel pump, if I go to start it, it wont rev to the maximum or be stuck in the off position. Once I figure out all that I can make my own throttle control to match what the solenoid does, get the engine running independent of the ECU and be able to shut it off. Then comes the fun part of removing the whole emissions stuff including the DPF canister and just putting a straight piece of pipe in place of it.

 

[LouNY]

Have you checked the current output of your hand and foot throttle?
It could be a variable 1 to 12 volt, or a 1-5 volt signal.

Also you could use something like this,

lots to choose from;

 

[51allis]

Have you checked the current output of your hand and foot throttle?
It could be a variable 1 to 12 volt, or a 1-5 volt signal.

Also you could use something like this,
View attachment 831053


lots to choose from;
View attachment 831054

LouNY, thanks for the ideas. Maybe before I attempt to make a throttle control in place of the solenoid, I could check the output of the dash throttle trying to find its power source and just wire power to it and then when directly out to the solenoid and see how it reacts, this is because both the dash throttle and the foot throttle are both "potentiometers" almost the same thing as the motor control. It would be nice to leave the solenoid in place and use another electronic controller for throttle instead of making a manual rod or cable control, I will have to check the service manuals wiring diagram. But Ill keep your ideas in mind. Thanks much.

 

[breadtrk]

I'm going to do the delete and cable today. I have the Nexus reader and it can read the codes but it will not clear the codes until the problem is fixed it says. Gonna permanently fix it today I hope.


Anyone have any luck with figuring out an electronic controller?

 

[NBABUCKS1]

I'm going to do the delete and cable today. I have the Nexus reader and it can read the codes but it will not clear the codes until the problem is fixed it says. Gonna permanently fix it today I hope.


Anyone have any luck with figuring out an electronic controller?

Update?

I'd love to clear the codes and install stock throttle back on if it all possible.

 

[Struggler]

Currently researching, did get the service and repair manual for my LS XR4046 tier 4. The solenoid on the back of the injection pump IS what controls engine speed and that is how the ECU controls the pump. The solenoid shaft moves up to 1/2". NOTE: I have not taken my solenoid out yet, too many other projects going on, but the manual states:
Apply 12 volts power on the solenoid connector and confirm the movement of plunger
* Appling must be finished within one minute, if it is greater may cause of internal damage.
● Standard value: The shaft move smoothly (full stroke = 13 mm, 0.51inch)

As you can see the LS service manual is not that great in its description.

When I get the time, the first thing I'm going to do is verify the movement of the solenoid shaft and which direction it goes in to shut off tractor so that I know that if I remove the solenoid and key switch power the fuel pump, if I go to start it, it wont rev to the maximum or be stuck in the off position. Once I figure out all that I can make my own throttle control to match what the solenoid does, get the engine running independent of the ECU and be able to shut it off. Then comes the fun part of removing the whole emissions stuff including the DPF canister and just putting a straight piece of pipe in place of it.

Hope you got the problems solved by now! I had a faulty burner and it was replaced under warranty. The problem has returned in 100 engine hours. You are doing the right thing, bypassing the problem. The key switch sends power to parts of the ECU and then the ECU energizes the Engine Main Relay. The ECU controls the fuel pump. With a simple circuit and rewiring, the key switch output can be used to control both of these relays, bypassing the ECU. The ECU controls the engine RPM; the hand throttle control level or foot control level controls a variable resistor with 5 volts across it. A voltage tap on the variable resistor is used by the ECU to control the linear solenoid. Bypassing the ECU is one way. Removing the linear solenoid and mechanically controlling the metering rod is another. Accessing the linear solenoid on our tractor looks very painful.

 

[51allis]

Hope you got the problems solved by now! I had a faulty burner and it was replaced under warranty. The problem has returned in 100 engine hours. You are doing the right thing, bypassing the problem. The key switch sends power to parts of the ECU and then the ECU energizes the Engine Main Relay. The ECU controls the fuel pump. With a simple circuit and rewiring, the key switch output can be used to control both of these relays, bypassing the ECU. The ECU controls the engine RPM; the hand throttle control level or foot control level controls a variable resistor with 5 volts across it. A voltage tap on the variable resistor is used by the ECU to control the linear solenoid. Bypassing the ECU is one way. Removing the linear solenoid and mechanically controlling the metering rod is another. Accessing the linear solenoid on our tractor looks very painful.

yeah, I'm getting close to working on the tractor as my other projects are getting finished up. Did further research and that "linear solenoid" on back of the fuel injection pump moves a shaft in it about 1/2" maximum. When I looked at the diagram for it, there is also a direct 12v signal, which I suspect is ONLY used at start up so that maximum fuel is flowing in the system, after it starts it depends on the 5v signal side from throttle levers. So I did find a 12v to 5v DC/DC converter module on Amazon, you get 4 of them for $15. The nice thing about these modules is that even the ground side is used as 5v. My thinking is this: Make sure power is to the key switch directly bypassing the ECU then using the key switch for when you turn over the engine to feed 12V directly to solenoid, when you let off key in the run position where power is coming off it, it would go to the converter input then output would go to the throttle control, from the throttle control out to the solenoid's 5v side. I know I am very close, if I bypass ECU controlling the fuel pump and stop the ECU from also controlling power to key switch for starting (this is how the ECU stops the tractor from running completely if there is a serious failure in the emissions). The only thing I am worried about at the moment is the "Quality" of the 12v to 5v converter, seems like all are made in China and I wonder if they will stop working after a while. Anyone know of a better converter that might be made in better quality? See Amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/Magnolora-Di...01M5JFO0L/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8