New Holland Hayliner 271 pickup wheel question and breaking twine

[MarkGrabb]

Hello All - I am attempting to bale straw for the first time (or I should say bale anything for the first time). I have a New Holland baler (per the photo). When operating, should the pickup wheel be on the ground? I am concerned that the fellow I bought it from put it in a transport mode for me to drive to my farm... and I can't figure out how to lower the yellow chamber so that the wheel rests on the ground. I have the manual.. but that hasn't helped me.

I tried baling today for the first time. The straw was getting jammed in the chamber.... but I think it may have been a little too moist and that may have caused it to constantly jam. I loosened the bar that controls the density of the bale all the way, but the straw would still jam in the chamber and the twine would break as the bale was trying to get through the chamber. . Since I have never baled before... I don't know what I am doing wrong. Maybe I am doing everything right, and I just need to make sure the straw is very dry.

All thoughts and insights will be greatly appreciated.

 

[Halftrack]

Let's start with the pickup release. On the right side above the pickup wheel is a rectangular bar that is held up by a chain retained L shaped pin. Remove the pin and allow the pickup to drop.

As far as the jamming of the straw, you are probably traveling too fast and feeding the straw too fast. Start in your lowest gear and feed it very slowly. A heavy window from a large combine may require a speed of less than 1 mph. You want a minimum of 13 strokes or more per bale to obtain consistant bale shapes.

Twine may be another issue. Is the twine in the machine old twine, non-synthetic and past its prime. Consider replacing it with synthetic twine.

And finally, contact your local NH dealer and have their baler guy come out and get you started. Certainly better than calling him after you have broken something major. good luck

 

[Halftrack]

Checking the diagram for the 271, the L shaped pin is on the left side of the pickup head and not the right. Item 56 on the pickup group parts page.

 

[MarkGrabb]

Hello Halftrack - many thanks. I’ll look for that L-shaped pin first thing in the morning. The twine is synthetic and new from last season. I’m moving slow and getting over 13 strokes. I have kept the PTO speed low… maybe that’s an issue. I have a 60 HP tractor so I could increase the PTO a lot more if necessary. Thanks again!!! I’ll post on how I do with it tomorrow.

 

[MarkGrabb]

Checking the diagram for the 271, the L shaped pin is on the left side of the pickup head and not the right. Item 56 on the pickup group parts page.

Thanks! Now that I know where to look on both the baler and my manual… I’m sure I’ll find it. Thanks again!

 

[Halftrack]

Pto should be at or near 540.

 

[zzvyb6]

You don't say WHERE the tine in breaking, so a photo would be helpful.
First of all suggestions: Watch the official New Holland knotter sequence video. Then you will know WHAT happens WHEN.

Twine breakage can occur for several major reasons: It's torn or shreaded by the wipe arm as passes under the billhooks because there is a little clearance there. Should be NO clearance. You want the entire twine assembly off the billhook, not just part of it. Plus the wiper arm contact should be like a cookie cutter, no open space as it passes under the billhook.

It can tear before it gets to the twine disk because the force required to pull fresh twine out of twine ball storage bin is too great; should be about 10 lbs.

If a knot is coming apart, it could be because the cutoff knife is too close to the billhook. As the knot gets tightened, an end pulls thru.

A few other knotter issues can easily be solved, but you said that 1 or both knots were breaking as it passed thru the compression section. If the chamber pressure was too great, the twine would break as it leaves the chamber and exits the baler.

If the twine disk pressure is too great, the twine being held will be crushed instead of held for the billhook rotation. so, back it off a turn or 2.

If the plastic is old, it probably has lost it's strength and plasticity and can fail when seeing normal bale formation loads.

If the twine is not threaded properly it's being bothered by an incorrect path which may increase it's loading force.

If the twine guides from the twine box to the needles have grooves worn in them, the twine will get severed. Rotate them 180 degrees to an unworn feed position..

 

[MarkGrabb]

You don't say WHERE the tine in breaking, so a photo would be helpful.
First of all suggestions: Watch the official New Holland knotter sequence video. Then you will know WHAT happens WHEN.

Twine breakage can occur for several major reasons: It's torn or shreaded by the wipe arm as passes under the billhooks because there is a little clearance there. Should be NO clearance. You want the entire twine assembly off the billhook, not just part of it. Plus the wiper arm contact should be like a cookie cutter, no open space as it passes under the billhook.

It can tear before it gets to the twine disk because the force required to pull fresh twine out of twine ball storage bin is too great; should be about 10 lbs.

If a knot is coming apart, it could be because the cutoff knife is too close to the billhook. As the knot gets tightened, an end pulls thru.

A few other knotter issues can easily be solved, but you said that 1 or both knots were breaking as it passed thru the compression section. If the chamber pressure was too great, the twine would break as it leaves the chamber and exits the baler.

If the twine disk pressure is too great, the twine being held will be crushed instead of held for the billhook rotation. so, back it off a turn or 2.

If the plastic is old, it probably has lost it's strength and plasticity and can fail when seeing normal bale formation loads.

If the twine is not threaded properly it's being bothered by an incorrect path which may increase it's loading force.

If the twine guides from the twine box to the needles have grooves worn in them, the twine will get severed. Rotate them 180 degrees to an unworn feed position..

Hello ZZVYb6

Lots of great info here that I did not know. I will watch the video a few times and that will help me better understand your comments. I need to understand some basic terminology first. I’m the meantime - the twine frays on the right side as I stand behind the baler. Here is a photo. This is the only side that is breaking.

 

[MarkGrabb]

@Halftrack and @zzvyb6 - Many thanks! All your info significantly helped. I’m baling!!!!!!

 

[5030]

Twine may be another issue. Is the twine in the machine old twine, non-synthetic and past its prime. Consider replacing it with synthetic twine.

Only thing I disagree with. Older as in ancient NH bailers aren't designed or built for poly, only Sisal twine as the twine discs cannot retain poly, it's too slippery and the bill hooks aren't hardened either and will quickly wear with poly, if you can even get it to tie at all. Far as the bale bunching up, when bailing wheat straw the tension has to be kept high, not loose and he probably needs 'hay dogs' in the sides of the bale chamber past where the plunger extends. they keep the forming bale from backing up and NH sells them for all models both ancient and new. I used to bale wheat straw in small squares on contract, thousands of them but I sold my square bailer a couple years ago, I just do large rounds now. I had a well maintained NH 575 high capacity with the extra sweep pickup and hydraulic bale tension and hydraulic tongue swing and I hope the OP is swinging the bailer off to the right side when using it. I got 14 grand for it in 2 days flat, cash sale and the buyer contracted it to be hauled and the permits too as they are over width and the tongue cannot be easily removed. No CL or Farcebook Market place either. I have zero patience with tire kickers and low ballers. Sold it on Tractor House and paid a 200 buck insertion fee with multiple pictures in color of course. Just sold a Kuhn Master Drive double rotor rotary rake pull behind as well and bought a new Kuhn Masterdrive SINGLE rotor 3 point hitch mount and broke even. I've reduced the acreage I cut and bale and the twin rotor was just too big and I wanted a 3 point anyway. Easier to square up windrows on odd shaped fields.