New Holland Hayliner 271 pickup wheel question and breaking twine

[zzvyb6]

Only thing I disagree with. Older as in ancient NH bailers aren't designed or built for poly, only Sisal twine as the twine discs cannot retain poly, it's too slippery and the bill hooks aren't hardened either and will quickly wear with poly, if you can even get it to tie at all. Far as the bale bunching up, when bailing wheat straw the tension has to be kept high, not loose and he probably needs 'hay dogs' in the sides of the bale chamber past where the plunger extends. they keep the forming bale from backing up and NH sells them for all models both ancient and new. I used to bale wheat straw in small squares on contract, thousands of them but I sold my square bailer a couple years ago, I just do large rounds now. I had a well maintained NH 575 high capacity with the extra sweep pickup and hydraulic bale tension and hydraulic tongue swing and I hope the OP is swinging the bailer off to the right side when using it. I got 14 grand for it in 2 days flat, cash sale and the buyer contracted it to be hauled and the permits too as they are over width and the tongue cannot be easily removed. No CL or Farcebook Market place either. I have zero patience with tire kickers and low ballers. Sold it on Tractor House and paid a 200 buck insertion fee with multiple pictures in color of course. Just sold a Kuhn Master Drive double rotor rotary rake pull behind as well and bought a new Kuhn Masterdrive SINGLE rotor 3 point hitch mount and broke even. I've reduced the acreage I cut and bale and the twin rotor was just too big and I wanted a 3 point anyway. Easier to square up windrows on odd shaped fields.

All NH (as well as anybody else's square balers) work fine with plastic twine if the twine disk tension is adjusted (increased) to retain the twine ends. Same for pullout force from the twine box and billhook jaw retention. Both should be about 10 lbs and measured with a fish scale. Just like a manual describes.

What I often see is operators attempting to use round bale twine in square balers because its cheaper and longer length overall, so they think they are getting a deal. The round bale twine is much thinner and more difficult to retain in the twine disks. But, I've seen it done successfully. Round bale twine is not as strong as square bale twine because there are many more than 2 strings involved in the process, so they wind up complaining about bales breaking during elevator trips.

There is no physical reason that plastic (BT-130, 10,000ft) can't work instead, otherwise all of our shoes would be falling off. You wrap a bale being formed, you bring the ends together in 1 place, bill hook opens and captures the 2 strings, it twists them into a bundle, the wiper arm scrapes the bundle off, and the result is a tied knot.

Believe it or knot, some actually believe that the COLOR of the twine must be factory spec'd, too. Lore from round bale or square bale purpose, plus the 'natural' sisal was made from hemp. My place used to be a hemp farm during WW-II, delivered to the US Navy for rope (lines). I like any color that you can see when grabbing them by hand for delivery.

 

[5030]

All NH (as well as anybody else's square balers) work fine with plastic twine if the twine disk tension is adjusted (increased) to retain the twine ends. Same for pullout force from the twine box and billhook jaw retention. Both should be about 10 lbs and measured with a fish scale. Just like a manual describes.

What I often see is operators attempting to use round bale twine in square balers because its cheaper and longer length overall, so they think they are getting a deal. The round bale twine is much thinner and more difficult to retain in the twine disks. But, I've seen it done successfully. Round bale twine is not as strong as square bale twine because there are many more than 2 strings involved in the process, so they wind up complaining about bales breaking during elevator trips.

There is no physical reason that plastic (BT-130, 10,000ft) can't work instead, otherwise all of our shoes would be falling off. You wrap a bale being formed, you bring the ends together in 1 place, bill hook opens and captures the 2 strings, it twists them into a bundle, the wiper arm scrapes the bundle off, and the result is a tied knot.

Believe it or knot, some actually believe that the COLOR of the twine must be factory spec'd, too. Lore from round bale or square bale purpose, plus the 'natural' sisal was made from hemp. My place used to be a hemp farm during WW-II, delivered to the US Navy for rope (lines). I like any color that you can see when grabbing them by hand for delivery.

Not exactly. Older square bailers (I'm only familiar with the NH brand use 2 twine discs) instead of the 3 that poly requires plus the discs are larger and the clamping screws have more adjustment tension and heavier springs but you can change them out. The older bill hooks are not hardened either, the newer ones like on the 575 I sold a few years ago, are case hardened.

I do agree on bailer twine in poly, round bale twine will never work, the diameter is too small and the tensile strength is too low as well. Poly is inherently slippery no matter what the diameter is, and why it requires special twine discs and clamping. I never paid heed to the clamping force in the owners manual. I set mine by how the poly twine 'felt as I pulled it. Same with the initial tension clamp on the side of the twine box.

Finally, you need to keep the twine cutter knives sharp, the replacement ones have a nut and bolt arrangement, the OEM ones are riveted in place Poly will dull the knives pretty quick where as Sisal don't and frayed ends on any twine will cause a mis tie. I have a feeling the bailer is out of time anyway. Older NH bailers have chain driven knotters and and chains stretch (I know my first square bailer was a NH 66 Hayliner), The 575 was all gear driven except for the accumulator fingers but they were easily adjustable for chain stretch. Maintenance is key with any bailer, round or square or large square for that matter and the knotters need to be kept free of hay or wheat straw chaff. Really new bailers (small square and large square have optional knotter blowers now. I just carried a cordless blower concentrator in the cab of the tractor and blew the chaff off every couple windrows. radiator in the tractor as well as I like the cab cool. I'm a puss when it comes to climate control and I never bailed with anything but a cab unit. I only rake and ted with an open station.

 

[5030]

On twine, my preference is the NH mega balls of round bale twine (when I use it which is rare) and Kubota net (which is really Tama Net printed in Kubota colors) and I get it at a heck of a discount from my dealer. My issue always has been and will be, the weight of a full roll of net and loading it. I'm 73 and the older one gets, the heavier stuff gets. I only buy the extended net rolls and my new bailer actually tracks the amount of net used per wrap and tells me when the net is almost depleted so I don't have to look at the end of roll markings. That is really the only time I switch to twine (to finish wrapping a round bail, when it is close to running out of net).

 

[zzvyb6]

Not exactly. Older square bailers (I'm only familiar with the NH brand use 2 twine discs) instead of the 3 that poly requires plus the discs are larger and the clamping screws have more adjustment tension and heavier springs but you can change them out. The older bill hooks are not hardened either, the newer ones like on the 575 I sold a few years ago, are case hardened.

I do agree on bailer twine in poly, round bale twine will never work, the diameter is too small and the tensile strength is too low as well. Poly is inherently slippery no matter what the diameter is, and why it requires special twine discs and clamping. I never paid heed to the clamping force in the owners manual. I set mine by how the poly twine 'felt as I pulled it. Same with the initial tension clamp on the side of the twine box.

Finally, you need to keep the twine cutter knives sharp, the replacement ones have a nut and bolt arrangement, the OEM ones are riveted in place Poly will dull the knives pretty quick where as Sisal don't and frayed ends on any twine will cause a mis tie. I have a feeling the bailer is out of time anyway. Older NH bailers have chain driven knotters and and chains stretch (I know my first square bailer was a NH 66 Hayliner), The 575 was all gear driven except for the accumulator fingers but they were easily adjustable for chain stretch. Maintenance is key with any bailer, round or square or large square for that matter and the knotters need to be kept free of hay or wheat straw chaff. Really new bailers (small square and large square have optional knotter blowers now. I just carried a cordless blower concentrator in the cab of the tractor and blew the chaff off every couple windrows. radiator in the tractor as well as I like the cab cool. I'm a puss when it comes to climate control and I never bailed with anything but a cab unit. I only rake and ted with an open station.

That's good info. BTW: My neighbor recently put copper wire into a twine baler with limited success ! Made one bale ! Cut-off was a problem !

 

[5030]

That's good info. BTW: My neighbor recently put copper wire into a twine baler with limited success ! Made one bale ! Cut-off was a problem !

I bet. Wire tie bailers are a rarity around here, only ever seen one and it wasn't new either.

 

[Halftrack]

Which was worth more, the hay in the bale or the copper in the bale?

 

[Halftrack]

@Halftrack and @zzvyb6 - Many thanks! All your info significantly helped. I’m baling!!!!!!

Wondered how you ended up with your 1st baling adventure?

 

[MarkGrabb]

Wondered how you ended up with your 1st baling adventure?

Worked out great!!!! I learned a lot.