New Impact Wrench

[newbury]

Portability can be important.

 

[4570Man]

My Thor was 300 bucks and the IR was 400 delivered btw. Of course both require serious CFM air delivery bit I have that in spades at 35 cfm at i40 psi and high delivery air lines and fittings as well. No breaker bar required and no torque multiplier needed either. I do use a 3/4" drive clicker torque wrench for tightening the nuts, especially on 10 hole Bud style wheels, especially the aluminum Buds and you will never break the nuts on a shredder without an ultra torque wrench, don't even try. Takes some impact sockets with meat too. I use the good old HF black oxide impact sockets that HF sells cheap and never split one yet. I've split Snap-On, SK Wayne, MAC and Proto before. Busted a few extensions as well and I only use pinned universals, not splined, I twist the spined ones immediately. HF to the rescue again (ICON).

How much did you spend on the air compressors with the required piping and wiring? How much shop space did you loose to the compressors? After all that you’re still confined to the end of a short hose. I’m glad you’re happy with the solution but a $1000 Milwaukee is wildly more practical for most people.

 

[5030]

I actually have 4 compressors, the Quincy and 2 smaller 2 stage compressors and a Sullaire screw compressor but I usually just run the Quincy, the others are there as backup's only and one large vertical receiver and space isn't a limitation at all. Remember, I own and operate short run machine and welding shop so my 'space' if you want to call it that is 40 feet wide x 80 feet long and I even have an overhead rail crane in the main shop. Far as a short hose, not an issue either. I keep a 120 foot large diameter rubber hose on a retractable reel next to the 14 foot high overhead door and it has a off leg that blows my Kalenberg steam to air whistle I have on the outside of the shop when I want to irritate my not to close neighbors.

Far as required piping is concerned, it's all in custom cut and threaded black iron with drops and drains everywhere and while it wasn't cheap, black iron is the best compressor piping known and of course the long runs are a tilted a bit from the Quincy to aid in condensation evacuation and I have an IR cycling air dryer sitting next to the Quincy electrically connected to it so when it's running, so is the air dryer which is required when running the CNC plasma table I also own entrained moisture in the air supply to the plasma cutter on the table is a big no. That air must be dry or the cutter eats consumables and produces excessive dross when cutting sheet metal, especially thicker gage and I regularly cut up to 1/2" mild steel, sometimes thicker. I also cut stainless and aluminum sheet for my customers as well as cutting sub assemblies that are assembled to make finished parts, most often by welding them together.

Hope that answers your comment.

 

[5030]

I’m glad you’re happy with the solution but a $1000 Milwaukee is wildly more practical for most people.

I am always happy, I don't live to be crabby at all.

Far as a 1 grand Milwaukee, not in my cards, never has been. I do own quite a few cordless battery operated tools, but no Milwaukee or Dewalt and what I have is for occasional use only. Everything I own is HF Bauer 20 volt and I've never had a failure with any of them to date. Heck, they are all made in the same offshore factory anyway. Kind of like Chainsaws, why buy overpriced Stihl when I can buy an equal or even better Echo, made in Japan saw. Don't get me wrong, I do have 3 Stihl saws one is over 45 years old and runs like a raped ape and starts on the second pull but new saws are all Echo as is my brush trimmer. I look at hand tools, especially chainsaws as value added tools so I won't pay a premium price for a name when I can buy for less and usually a lot less. I will say one thing and that is, I'd never buy a Chinese made saw. I'd use a handsaw first.

You want a list of the machine tools I own and the welders too and I own everything in the shop outright except my 2 employees, I have to pay them. Well, not everything, I just purchased a new TIG welder and water cooler and 2 plasma cutters last month. Sold the old welder and a big HT plasma cutter to a guy up town who has been lusting for them. Even sold him a full 120 cubic foot full bottle of Argon for the Lincoln Square Wave I sold him and a cart for the HT 'cause I'm a nice guy.

 

[4570Man]

If echo makes a saw that will cut as good as my 500i and runs as clean I’ll go buy one right now. You’re probably laughing about chainsaw emissions but the clean burn of the 500 is actually nice. I don’t stink nearly as bad after sawing with it vs other saws. I bought a 590 largely because of the huge number of raving reviews it gets and I quickly sold it. My Makita 6100 that’s another value saw cuts circles around the 590.

 

[5030]

If echo makes a saw that will cut as good as my 500i and runs as clean I’ll go buy one right now. You’re probably laughing about chainsaw emissions but the clean burn of the 500 is actually nice. I don’t stink nearly as bad after sawing with it vs other saws. I bought a 590 largely because of the huge number of raving reviews it gets and I quickly sold it. My Makita 6100 that’s another value saw cuts circles around the 590.

Try using canned gas instead. All I run is Echo Red Armor 50-1 and premium bar oil and I will say (tongue in cheek) that a stock 590 needs breathed on a bit to run well and it also takes about 3 full tanks of fuel before it develops good power. First thing I did (before I even started it) was, I pulled the muffler and removed the top baffle (under the deflector plate) which is kind of a PITA because it's spot welded on so you need to use a die grinder to remove the welds and I drilled (with my Dremel) 3 rectangular holes in the lower inside baffle, then I added 2 tight fitting rubber O rings to the carb inlet stub, one on the stub and one on the inside of the stock flooked air cleaner where the fixing stud goes through as the stock air cleaner has a bad habit of passing fines. I set the high speed mixture screw (after removing the limiter caps) to where it just 4 strokes free revving and it starts second pull and runs like a raped ape. I can actually do a full 20" bar rip cut in seasoned oak and it never bogs down at all, just keeps right on trucking. I did buy the oiled foam (Nick Stokel Stack) velocity stack air cleaner but have not installed it yet as the saw is running just fine now. I may at some point install the 5 degree offset flywheel key and a 620 ignition set as the 620 set allows a higher rpm but so far, it's fine as it is.

Removing the baffle and putting the slots inside the muffler really woke it up plus it has a mean, deep sound now, not obnoxious, just nice. Of course a sharp chain always helps too but then I grind a lot of chains for my arborist customers (as well as brush chipper knives) so grinding chains is real common here. I usually have at least 50 loops that need sharpened at one time and mine are always razor sharp and the rakers set at 0.030. Have 2 chain grinders I mount to the welding table, one for grinding just cutters and the other for dropping rakers. One thin I never want to see is sawdust coming off a loop, I want to see real chips. Once any loop starts building pitch on the backside of a cutter, it's time to replace it with a new loop and I always have an extra loop with me, just in case.

I do use carbide tipped loops or through hardened and TIN plated cutter loops when cutting stumps for grinding as the dirt at the bottom of a stump will quickly dull an ordinary tempered loop. Problem with carbide tipped loops other than the cost is they have to be sharpened with a diamond impregnated aluminum rimmed wheel but the through hardened cutter loops can be sharpened with a conventional red wheel, just carefully. First responders and fire brigades use the carbide tipped chains when cutting through shingled roofs and nails for venting. I have the through hardened chain in bulk loops but the carbide tipped, no, I cannot afford the bulk loops of that.

I did leave the USDA spark arrestor in place however. Running the Red Armor canned gas I get no carbon build up in the muffler or the exhaust port or on the screen and the piston and the jug is pristine inside too. No score marks or buildup on the piston skirt at all and the plug is always light grey too. One nice thing about the canned gas is there is no exhaust stink at all and no smoke except on a cold start. I realize it's a bit more expensive but when you factor in the cost bottle oil it's really not that bad, especially if you don't run them constantly and I don't plus I can leave the canned gas in the fuel tanks and not run them for months and they start right up and idle just fine. In fact my Stihl's run better on canned gas than pump gas and the unopened canned gas has a shelf life of 5 years and 2 years in a saw and of course no carb or fuel line issues either. I even use it in my motorcycles when I put them up for the winter. Egas especially is hard on fuel lines and lets not mention carbs. Around here non e-gas is hard to find and when you do, it's super expensive, about on par with canned gas once you add the oil to it and pray it don't gum up the carb or rot the fuel lines. Too bad you sold it, I'm always on the hunt for another Echo, especially a used and not abused one. The two things I don't like about the 590 is the plastic chain cover and the crappy kill switch and to a lesser extent the clutch rim driven chain sprocket but that can be refitted with an insert drive clutch drum when the time comes and so can the plastic side cover with real captive bar nuts. Price wise I bet you paid a whole lot more for that Stihl than I paid for my 590 and your Stihl still needs a muf mod to let it run to it's full potential. I own 3 Stihl's, my 45+ year old 028WB and a 075 as well as an 090G neither the 075 nor the 090G has been started in years and both are devoid of any gas or bar oil. They sit on a shelf and look pretty and my wife wants me to sell them but they are old friends from a time when I owned a tree business so I just keep them. The 075 wears an early Stihl roller nose greaseable bar in 48 length and the 090 wears a 5.5 foot 2 man bar and both have .404 full tooth chipper loops on them and both a surgically sharp as well and of course both are heavy and both sound like motorcross bikes when running I think at least. Been a long time since I ran them. Bought them both new when I bought the 028, many moons ago.

 

[grsthegreat]

I was swapping out an engine on a 22kw generac generator yesterday, and wouldn’t ya know it, i forgot my air powered impact tool. I had the compressor, not the tool. No way to pull rotor without one. Luckily the homeowner had a dewalt DCF891 impact and that popped rotor right off. I just purchased the DCF900B off of amazon this morning. I have plenty of batteries. I dont want to be caught without this tool again. This baby has rated 1400 ft pounds removal and 1030 tightening. I wont need that much, as his worked ok, but just barely. Best to be safe.

will be kept on work truck for future work. The use of his tool saved me a 2 hour round trip to shop