New Mods to Loretta's 284 Jinma

[valley]

Rob, What a good step by step. Your Kama came with a brace you said. I saw you added the two buckles to the rear. Is that to add laderal stability or were they on the tractor before the brace? The check valve is a good idea. You're full of good ideas. Richard

 

[3RRL]

Rob, What a good step by step. Your Kama came with a brace you said. I saw you added the two buckles to the rear. Is that to add laderal stability or were they on the tractor before the brace? The check valve is a good idea. You're full of good ideas. Richard

Thanks Richard,
I'm not sure what you mean about adding the 2 "buckles" to the rear?
Do you mean on the Kama or the Jinma? And exactly what do you mean by "buckles"? I guess I'm not clear on your question...
Rob-

 

[Hawk J]

Howdy Rob; i've been reading some of yer posts. You shurely have fixed up yer beloved wife's tractor mighty nice. She is a Beautiful Machine......................................................


Have a Great Day

Jack

 

[3RRL]

Howdy Rob; i've been reading some of yer posts. You shurely have fixed up yer beloved wife's tractor mighty nice. She is a Beautiful Machine......................................................


Have a Great Day

Jack

Thanks so much Jack!
I gotta make sure it's in better shape than mine or she will kill me.
Really, we do so much work together on our little ranch that it makes sense to have her tractor as functionable (is that a word?) as possible. Otherwise, with the variety of implements and terrain we encounter, we'd spend half the day adjusting all those turnbuckles. The added strength of the rear supports are a big safety margin for when she uses her loader bucket and grapples. The other items are, again, to make it easier to do stuff while working the tractor or for maintenance. That includes having a tool box for whatever pops up when we're out in the trees working.
Thanks for checking out the thread!

 

[valley]

Rob, On the page before this one entry #45 the last picture. There are struts or buckles coming from the rear end of the new brace. I think you put up a picture, earlier in the thread, of the tractor before the brace was added. I'll look for that.

 

[valley]

Rob, Whatever you call them were on Loretta's tractor entry #23 before you installed the braces. What do you call them? They are attached to the end of the new brace. Richard

 

[3RRL]

Rob, Whatever you call them were on Loretta's tractor entry #23 before you installed the braces. What do you call them? They are attached to the end of the new brace. Richard

Hi Richard,
I know what you're talking about now.
Those "buckles" are the attachment point for her lower link stabilizers or sway links. The stabilizers are the plated gold looking pieces that keep the lower links from swaying side to side. Those "buckles" or attachments were already on the plate. I didn't add those. I only added the square tube going to the front brace.

Here are some photos.
In this photo, you can see those buckles and they are still black. They were factory. They were welded to the plate which bolts to the bottom of the axle housing. You can see the sway links or stabilizer bars attached to them. This is looking from the rear.



These photos below show them looking from underneath front to rear. Again, they are still black. That plate has those buckles attached to it on the rear of it. You can clearly see them sticking out to the rear of the tractor, with the stabilizer bar or sway link attached. In the second photo, you can see that I'm fitting the square tube to that plate, to show how the tube will be welded to it.



These photos below show the square tube (now painted yellow) already welded to that plate which has the buckles on it. The first one is a similar view from underneath front to rear but now has the yellow tube welded to it. The second one shows a close up view from the rear and the third one shows a view from the rear of the entire welded plate and tube.
Hope that answers you question.
Rob-

 

[valley]

Yes it does Rob, I went back after the post and looked at your photo progression, you showed the rear of the tractor before worked began and in stages to completion. You make this fun Rob! Bet its raining like crazy at you place right now. but you still have some hydraulic work to do, inside work. We're getting the weather here first rain and now snow, looking for 4 to 5 feet. Richard

 

[3RRL]

Ha ... thanks Richard! Hope you don't get snowed under too bad.
You're right, back to the hydraulics for the Top and Tilt mod... I got most of the parts in but I'm still waiting for the rest of the back order. I need those 45 degree hose ends to connect to the new Prince valve so the hoses will route correctly. Not sure when they'll arrive?

I did get a chance to do a little plumbing though, so I'll share the photos of that.
The photos below show what I had in mind, but the fittings are not in stone yet since I need to make sure they will all route properly and are able to rise and fall without restriction. First one shows possible hose ends on the valve. Second one shows the side links and top link ready to get hoses. Third one is a return to tank fitting I made. There was a metric plug in the hydraulic tank there. I took it out and drilled out the center and welded a fitting to it so I could use JIC hose ends there.
Rob-

 

[3RRL]

What might be of interest is how to make up the hoses using the Re-usable hose end fittings.
I was really fortunate when Brian (MountainViewRanch) and his brother Mark came to stay at my place. We were talking about what I was doing to Loretta's tractor and Mark pointed out how reasonable the re-usable hose ends cost compared to getting the hoses made. When having a hose made up at the hydraulic dealer, the cost for custom hose ends to fit what you need (90's or 45's) comes out to the same or even more than using these re-usable ones. Plus, when I got hoses made, I always erred to the long side so I'd be sure they fit. If you screwed up the length, you are stuck with the hose you bought but with re-usable ends, you can cut the hose a little to take out any unnecessary length.

The cost is about 8 to 17 bucks an end (depending on what kind) and the hose in bulk feet is about $1.30 per foot for 3/8" hose. I got all the fittings from Discount Hydraulics
They are just as reliable and the beauty of it is you can make your own hoses right in the shop...exactly like you want. You can make them the exact length and also have any 90 or 45 degree fittings face the exact way they need to face for screwing onto the fittings. For example, a 4' long hose with a straight JIC re-usable end on one end and a 90 degree on the other would cost $28.20. And it will be a perfect fit to your application.

Here are some photos showing the re-usable hose ends I used.
Shown is the hose and end fittings. What you do is screw them apart. Then you take the housing and screw it onto the hose. You screw it on counter-clockwise because those are left-handed threads. You screw the hose until there is about a "thumbnail" of gap before it bottoms out. Then you take the fitting and screw it into the inside of the hose until there is the same gap. I used .030" as an average for the gap. Also use some lubricant to screw together. I used (2 wire) R-2 4000psi hose with R-2 re-usable hose ends. You must use the correct fitting depending whether it's a single or two wire hose.
Rob-