New roof - Light or dark shingles

   / New roof - Light or dark shingles #41  
I'm partial to dark shingles. When I built my addition, I installed stone coated metal shingles. Pricey, but if you do it right the first time, it only hurts once. :D
 

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   / New roof - Light or dark shingles #42  
Just bringing up this thread to give a visual of the effects of certain metals on keeping roofs from staining and growing moss.

Was looking at a job on a school yesterday, they want to clean the roof and install zinc strips, they were convinced at the effectiveness of metal strips by the fact that the roof was so clean under the large air vent stacks.

I always noticed that on certain roofs it would be clean in areas under metal flashing's etc but never put 2 and 2 together.

I'm convinced now, look at the difference, not only no moss but no enviro fallout stains, the shingles are pristine under the metal run off.

I can understand that moss might not grow with whatever is coming off the metal but how does it prevent the staining which doesn't seem to be a growing type stain but more of just dirty.
These metals are lead coated copper, galvinized and stainless. this is the north side, south side is clean.

Any chemists know the answer.
 

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   / New roof - Light or dark shingles #43  
Just bringing up this thread to give a visual of the effects of certain metals on keeping roofs from staining and growing moss.

Was looking at a job on a school yesterday, they want to clean the roof and install zinc strips, they were convinced at the effectiveness of metal strips by the fact that the roof was so clean under the large air vent stacks.

I always noticed that on certain roofs it would be clean in areas under metal flashing's etc but never put 2 and 2 together.

I'm convinced now, look at the difference, not only no moss but no enviro fallout stains, the shingles are pristine under the metal run off.

I can understand that moss might not grow with whatever is coming off the metal but how does it prevent the staining which doesn't seem to be a growing type stain but more of just dirty.
These metals are lead coated copper, galvinized and stainless. this is the north side, south side is clean.

Any chemists know the answer.

I think it's mold. I have heard of doing this, but my roof is hipped and this will not work very well. New shingles have zinc built into the shingles.
 
   / New roof - Light or dark shingles #44  
Zinc is a natural anti-plant anti-bacteria metal, the metal oxidizes and kills pretty much every thing it washes onto that has any king of live micro logical type growth going on. The pics above seem to have copper staining on as well, it acts similarly and keeps down most growing plant life. (also can kill trees if you were to nail a copper/bronze nail into them.)

If/When I ever have to replace my barn roof it will be metal... same for other places hose ect. only thing I will put shingles on is small shed or lean too that I dont expect to be around long anyway or has small surface area that placing metal would be hard to do.

Also look into the metal sectional type roofing material, it is similar looking to shingles but is actually metal and is laid out much the same way as standard asphalt shingles. Much better for hip roofs and ones with more complicated angles and or high pitch or mulit-pitch roofs.

Mark
 
   / New roof - Light or dark shingles #45  
Attic temps are generally cooler with light colored shingles. Especially if temps are moderate. When its 90 degrees and you have many hours of direct sunlight your attic is going to get hot no matter what.

Reflective material nailed to the bottom of the rafters can reduce cooling costs a lot. Especially when the attic is ventilated well.

There are some that don't like staples, but when used PROPERLY they'll out perform a nail because 1" wide staples have more surface area.The trick is finding someone that will use them properly. Staples driven too deep, too shallow, or not parallel with the shingle can cause a roof to fail early. I've torn off many 25+ year old roofs that had been stapled using 9/16" wide slap stapler staples.
Having said that, if I was going to do a roof for a customer I'd use nails. The coil nailers are just as productive as the staplers.

I wouldn't recommend 3-tab shingles to anyone. There was a time many years ago when the 25 & 30 year 3 tabs were better than the architectural shingles but those days are gone. The early architecturals had problems with de-laminating. Today's architectural shingles are superior. There's no (good) reason not to use them. As far as being able to go two layers with 3 tabs....its an acceptable practice, but that doesn't mean its a good practice. We're allowed to go 3 layers here. Its just not a good idea. I tore off SEVEN layers of roofing on one job. The nails in the top 4 or 5 layers didn't even reach the sheathing. They were just nailed into the old roofing.

Since labor is a significant part of the cost of a roof it makes a lot of sense to buy the best/longest lasting shingles you can find.
You won't regret using quality products and quality workmanship.
Pops
 
 
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