Car Doc! Somebody stole your walls!
It shrunk! :laughing:
Newbie...Can I dig my own footings?
- Thread starter Pixguy
- Start date
It shrunk! :laughing:
Carl_NH
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 5, 2002
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- 3,261
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- Coastal NH
- Tractor
- 01 Kubota B21TLB, 2010 Ferris 52" ZTR, Cub Cadet 1811, Gravely Super8
Pixguy,
There is another option for you to consider which is a floating slab. Esssentially this is a trench around the perimeter usually 18"x24" then tied into the 5-6" slab with rebar.
I built a 24x36' barn on slab 10 years ago and it has worked fine and meets the building codes here in So NH. You can easily do this with a small BH and bucket.
So, the process is to strip off the topsoil so you have a flat area, bring in some crusher run gravel (small stones and fine materials) and spread this in the center of your pad then dig a perimeter trench about 24x24" all around then spread some of the crusher run in the bottom around the trench and then compact it all down so you have roughly 18" deep x 24" wide all around.
What I did was use a string and small laser level to get the grade close.
At this point the concrete guys came in, recompacted checked level and built forms using 2x12's and 2x4 stakes to hold the 2x12 straight. Then they laid the rebar in the trench the long length then bent 8' long in a U shape extending in towards the center of the pad. They then wire tied everything together then to the internal rebar in the pad. Also they laid plastic down then wire mesh and rebar on top of this all tied in.
At this point it was ready for concrete and they poured the next day - about 26 yards in total then they finished smoothing it out. Removed the forms the next day and scored every 8' and they were done.
Roughly the finished surface was 3-4" above the grade around the barn, whcih I backfilled.
Then the framing went up on the slab with double 2x6 PT at the base then up from there.
The slab method has been done by many and I have not had any issues cracking/heaving in over 10 years in NH.
Carl
There is another option for you to consider which is a floating slab. Esssentially this is a trench around the perimeter usually 18"x24" then tied into the 5-6" slab with rebar.
I built a 24x36' barn on slab 10 years ago and it has worked fine and meets the building codes here in So NH. You can easily do this with a small BH and bucket.
So, the process is to strip off the topsoil so you have a flat area, bring in some crusher run gravel (small stones and fine materials) and spread this in the center of your pad then dig a perimeter trench about 24x24" all around then spread some of the crusher run in the bottom around the trench and then compact it all down so you have roughly 18" deep x 24" wide all around.
What I did was use a string and small laser level to get the grade close.
At this point the concrete guys came in, recompacted checked level and built forms using 2x12's and 2x4 stakes to hold the 2x12 straight. Then they laid the rebar in the trench the long length then bent 8' long in a U shape extending in towards the center of the pad. They then wire tied everything together then to the internal rebar in the pad. Also they laid plastic down then wire mesh and rebar on top of this all tied in.
At this point it was ready for concrete and they poured the next day - about 26 yards in total then they finished smoothing it out. Removed the forms the next day and scored every 8' and they were done.
Roughly the finished surface was 3-4" above the grade around the barn, whcih I backfilled.
Then the framing went up on the slab with double 2x6 PT at the base then up from there.
The slab method has been done by many and I have not had any issues cracking/heaving in over 10 years in NH.
Carl
Egon
Epic Contributor
It shrunk/QUOTE]
Or did it Sink?
It shrunk/QUOTE]
Or did it Sink?
Yeah that too! :laughing:
We are in tornado alley so that actually serves a duel purpose storm shelter and water well house handy! :thumbsup:
Egon
Epic Contributor
Usually slab on grade must meet the same frost standards as any other support beam or wall.
Looks like a nice shelter.:thumbsup:
Looks like a nice shelter.:thumbsup:
Kyle241
Platinum Member
For true frost walls you will need to be about 48" down. Yes, you can do it, just plan, plan, plan. Read as much as you can, ask questions and make sure you will secure with your knowledge. Unless you have a massive boulder where you plan to put the footings, your TLB should do. Always remember, they need to sit on undisturbed soil so as someone else stated, if you did too deep, don't just throw what you dug up back in. The floating slab idea is a good one. My last house was a floating slab and it was simple compared with my basement now that I let a professional deal with.
OP
Pixguy
Super Member
Thanks all for your ideas. First of all, I won't listen to someone who's shed has sank into the ground!
To cover a few items I didn't mention,
1. The garage will not be inspected, but I want to do it right
2. I MAY hit ledge, can I tie into it or have to dig that out?
3. The right side(32') of the garage is up against a small mountain that I had dug out to put in the new driveway, so I was advised to put up a 10' concrete wall with 2-3' returns, front and rear.
It looks like I need to go to a minimum of 45" deep and I realize that once I go deeper I cannot backfill without power tamping the material.
And, yes, I know everyone likes photos, so I will post once I start the job.
First of all, I won't listen to someone who's shed has sank into the ground! To cover a few items I didn't mention,
1. The garage will not be inspected, but I want to do it right
2. I MAY hit ledge, can I tie into it or have to dig that out?
3. The right side(32') of the garage is up against a small mountain that I had dug out to put in the new driveway, so I was advised to put up a 10' concrete wall with 2-3' returns, front and rear.
It looks like I need to go to a minimum of 45" deep and I realize that once I go deeper I cannot backfill without power tamping the material.
And, yes, I know everyone likes photos, so I will post once I start the job.
yooperdave
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2001
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- Marinette, WI
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- Tool Cat 5600, LS XJ2025H, Branson 4215HC
Have you considered a floating slab?
Good Luck
Yooper Dave
Good Luck
Yooper Dave
Egon
Epic Contributor
I MAY hit ledge, can I tie into it or have to dig that out?Tie into it.
KennyG
Elite Member
I'd vote for the floating slab also. Most places code allows a floating slab for frame construction but not for masonry.
For the floor, have you considered fiberglas reinforcement mixed into the concrete? I did one like that over 10 years ago and it's been great, and was very easy to place. Check with the local concrete guys and see what they recommend.
For the floor, have you considered fiberglas reinforcement mixed into the concrete? I did one like that over 10 years ago and it's been great, and was very easy to place. Check with the local concrete guys and see what they recommend.