Newbie needs info on FORD 4000- Injector pump issues on a FREE tractor?

[Ultradog MN]

Looking at the photo of the rear end I'm thinking that is a 3500 not a 4500.
3500 would be a 3000 series with a 175 ci diesel and not the 201 that is in a 4000 chassis.
You had best look at it and let us know which one it is as the injector pumps will be different.
The pump you want fits 3000, 3400, 3500, 3600 "I think" based upon that rear photo.
Look under the right side hood for a foil tag for the numbers - model #, tractor #, etc.
Or if the foil tag is not there the numbers will be Stamped into the top of the transmission - on a flat spot, just above and behind the starter. See photo. You may have to scrape off some crud, dirt or paint to see them. Does no good to go about it half Fast so make sure you get the numbers correct.
Post them here and we can tell you exactly what you have.
No special tools needed to change the pump.
Remove the gear cover on the front of the timing cover. Remove 3 bolts that bolt the gear to the pump shaft. The gear is indexed to the pump shaft with a pin - can only go back on one way. The gear is held captive in the timing cover - can not skip time.
Disconnect all injector lines and remove them from the tractor completely.
Look at the second photo - you will see the timing mark on the body of the pump and the marks on the engine. Make a mark or take a photo of which line it is set to. Usually about 1/2 line below zero but might be different.
Remove 3 bolts that hold the pump to the engine - tough to get at the back one but can be done with the right combination of socket extensions and swivel.
Pull the pump and install new one in reverse order.
Very easy job.
PS,
Tractor probably weighs in the 7000 plus range.

 

[RUMBLON]

considering a 5k car hauler probably weights what? 1500-1800# empty? leaving you a payload range of 3200-3500? I wouldn't laod anything bigger than a 3000 on one.. let alone a 4000, let alone a 4000 with laoder and box blade. At a MINIMUM you are looking at a 7k trailer, and preferably 18-20' and not a 16' so that you can distribute the weight. the problem with a 18-20' 7k trailer is that it goes up in base weight so you are still only at right at 5k maybee payload. So just ont he bare gritty edge, assuming no water in the tires. if tires are loaded ( and heavy box blade, and loader ), go to a 20' 10k trailer minimum, for safety.

Mine is an 18 ft and rated to haul approx 5500 max plus my trailer itself. I will have to look at it again but I have hauled trucks that weighed in the 5K range plus lots of MOPARS/ IE 4door imperials that are way over 4500. So I may have to just barrow an equipment trailer.
RUMBLON

 

[RUMBLON]

Looking at the photo of the rear end I'm thinking that is a 3500 not a 4500.
3500 would be a 3000 series with a 175 ci diesel and not the 201 that is in a 4000 chassis.
You had best look at it and let us know which one it is as the injector pumps will be different.
The pump you want fits 3000, 3400, 3500, 3600 "I think" based upon that rear photo.
Look under the right side hood for a foil tag for the numbers - model #, tractor #, etc.
Or if the foil tag is not there the numbers will be Stamped into the top of the transmission - on a flat spot, just above and behind the starter. See photo. You may have to scrape off some crud, dirt or paint to see them. Does no good to go about it half Fast so make sure you get the numbers correct.
Post them here and we can tell you exactly what you have.
No special tools needed to change the pump.
Remove the gear cover on the front of the timing cover. Remove 3 bolts that bolt the gear to the pump shaft. The gear is indexed to the pump shaft with a pin - can only go back on one way. The gear is held captive in the timing cover - can not skip time.
Disconnect all injector lines and remove them from the tractor completely.
Look at the second photo - you will see the timing mark on the body of the pump and the marks on the engine. Make a mark or take a photo of which line it is set to. Usually about 1/2 line below zero but might be different.
Remove 3 bolts that hold the pump to the engine - tough to get at the back one but can be done with the right combination of socket extensions and swivel.
Pull the pump and install new one in reverse order.
Very easy job.
PS,
Tractor probably weighs in the 7000 plus range.

The tractor has been for sale at a consignment equipment yard where I used to live. They have it listed as a FORD 4000

Equipment Specifications
Manufacturer FORD
Model 4000
Location NA
Serial Number NA
Condition Used
Stock Number Consignment
Horsepower 55
Drive 2WD

 

[Soundguy]

Mine is an 18 ft and rated to haul approx 5500 max plus my trailer itself. I will have to look at it again but I have hauled trucks that weighed in the 5K range plus lots of MOPARS/ IE 4door imperials that are way over 4500. So I may have to just barrow an equipment trailer.
RUMBLON

a 5k rated car hauler which is what you originally said you had is not the same thing as a trailer that has 5500# capacity including trailer weight. Generally you quote axle ratings ( minus any deratings ).

 

[Soundguy]

The tractor has been for sale at a consignment equipment yard where I used to live. They have it listed as a FORD 4000

Equipment Specifications
Manufacturer FORD
Model 4000
Location NA
Serial Number NA
Condition Used
Stock Number Consignment
Horsepower 55
Drive 2WD

Well, we can call it a 7000 if we want to, but would still be wrong.

You need to get a better rear picture. on my phone I did not see your rear. on my laptop, it looks like no inboard brakes and planetaries.... menaing it has the light duty rear like a 3000 series as UD said. Post a clearer picture of the rear, we need to see the axle trumpets. And 100% disreguard what the seller THINKS it is. Post info from the trans bellhousing.. I would not even trust the foil tag, since sheet metal can be swapped, and numbers painted on., decals misapplied.. etc.

 

[RUMBLON]

Well, we can call it a 7000 if we want to, but would still be wrong.

You need to get a better rear picture. on my phone I did not see your rear. on my laptop, it looks like no inboard brakes and planetaries.... menaing it has the light duty rear like a 3000 series as UD said. Post a clearer picture of the rear, we need to see the axle trumpets. And 100% disreguard what the seller THINKS it is. Post info from the trans bellhousing.. I would not even trust the foil tag, since sheet metal can be swapped, and numbers painted on., decals misapplied.. etc.

I will see what I can come up with as the owner gets me more info. The issue is that the owner moved as I did and the tractor is at a consignment place who obviously wants to sell it and if the owner gives it away then they make nothing. Neither the owner or I are in the state that the tractor is in. Once the owner lets the consignment place know hes giving it away, then I will see if I can get an idea on what it is. The consignment place is a local farm tractor/ equipment place that also diagnosed the bad injector pump, so who knows what really up with it. I guess FREE is good enough to go get it, then make it a winter project and see if I can use it. I need something big enough some a mini swather and baler so I was hoping for the more industrial mod but FREE IS FREE. If i get more pics or details I will post them.

Thanks again RUMBLON

 

[Soundguy]

if it's free, just get it. if nothing else, it's alot of scrap.$$ or parts if nothing else.

my bet is it's fixable unless ruined.

 

[City Farmer]

Like everyone else said, you'll know right away if it's a 4000. I'd make the road trip to get it. This is what the rear end is going to look like if it's a 4000

 

[paulharvey]

if it's free, just get it. if nothing else, it's alot of scrap.$$ or parts if nothing else.

my bet is it's fixable unless ruined.

That, or if you want to PM the address I could go pick it up . The Gannon box blade is probably worth $1000+ not even counting the tractor. Go get it.

 

[Soundguy]

Slap a real rear end on that hd front and have good brakes, pto and loader tractor