Newbie. Please help!

[Jolew0225]

Fluid replacement is on the to do list for the weekend. The axle froze again. That front oil definitely needs to be replaced. All right I got another question for everybody. Took my battery off to charge it and noticed how rusted/corroded some of the leads were. Decided while I was at it I would pull the ground strap, hot wire to the solenoid, and solenoid off to clean all the posts/surfaces of corrosion/surface rust etc. to get a better/cleaner current to my starter.

Well I may have bitten off more than I can chew with the solenoid. I've disassembled and replaced plenty of solenoids before (power sports) but this one was new to me. I made the ultimate mechanic sin of taking something apart and not remembering how it went back together. I am particularly baffled by the spring/plunger/actuator arm that goes down into the starter. Clearly I can see the plunger slot goes over the acuator arm but how does that dang spring go back in there? And which leads go to which post on the solenoid? Anybody got a diagram of exactly how they go back together? I wouldn't have pulled the solenoid knowing these internal parts would come out when I pulled it off the starter. I thought, like in power sports, it alone would come off as one easily replaceable unit and I would more easily be able to clean it's brass posts.


Thanks again to everybody, you guys have already been a big help!

Pics will be on the way. May take me a couple days but they will come!

Jonah

 

[JC-jetro]

let's start with the pic but at the same time post make and model of your starter off of your tractor. There might be some parts breakdown somewhere.I'll look at what I have for some clue.

JC,

 

[jinman]

Jonah, I think the attachment is an illustration of your starter. Maybe it will help.

 

[Jolew0225]

Yeah Jinman that's it! Thanks man. I searched around and eventually found that diagram as well.

I got it all back together and running again. My projects now are still to replace that front axle fluid and install a block heater.

My question now is, what fluid goes in the front axle? Is there a different weight fluid I should have for the routine sub-zero nights we get here in N. MN? Local NH dealer said hydro 134, what do you guys think? Thanks.

Jonah

 

[jinman]

Ambra Multi-G 134 Hydraulic/Transmission fluid is what you want. The same stuff as used in the transmission.

 

[Zork]

Sounds like moisture or water is in your oil. Heat it up and see if it breaks free and if it does change your oil.

 

[Jolew0225]

Gotcha. Thanks guys.

Jonah

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I am not sure if your front axle is the same design as my 1900. If it is you need to drain the oil out of the final drives on each side of the front axle and replace it. If you didn't get one with the tractor get an operators manual. This will tell you what to lubricate and what type of fluid goes where. You can find them on the Internet. I would also consider a service manual if you plan on doing your own repairs. Good luck with the new tractor.
Bill

 

[Jolew0225]

Pleased but pissed! Remember I just bought this thing.

Got fluid, got in heated garage, got it completely heated up. Cleaned up and around fluid drain and fill w/ brake cleaner and found why my final drive was freezing. I thought all the oily gunk built up on and around that drive was suspicious. Upon cleaning I see my final drive housing is CRACKED!! Not only is it cracked but it appears someone pathetically attempted to grind it and weld it very, very poorly. Needless to say when I cracked the drain plug, and I'm not making this up, about a quart of WATER poured out!

I proceed as planned and fill it up. I notice oil seeps from the crack. Luckily it is very high, near the fill plug. This crack doesn't seem like it will threaten the drive-ability of my little 86 1110 any time soon. It doesn't seem to threaten the "structural" integrity of the housing at all, it just leaks a little. If that makes sense. It seems like something I will have to keep my eye on and probably fill and drain on a pretty regular basis, which ain't so bad cuz it couldn't have been easier!

My questions are as follows. Can I get away jb welding/constant checking, draining, filling this for the winter? It seems to me like jb would work fine to keep oil in and water out short term but does anyone find any reason why that is a horribly irresponsible decision? Please tell me. My buddy who was helping me today, who happens to be a welder, said the crack didn't seem like it would be that hard to correctly weld. It appears that the previous owner, or whoever, tried to grind and weld without removing the drive housing! He (my buddy) seemed to think he could correctly weld it once removed. I would rather wait till summer to do this. Sound all right? I only spent $3400 on the whole machine so dropping hundreds more to repair this is not something I really wanna do.

Anyhow, I'm pleased I have the freezing issue determined and remedied (in the short term), but a little pissed at it's cause.

Oh seesh....I gotta go to bed. Try to get pics tomorrow.

Thanks in advance

Jonah

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I think it would be hard for that much water to get in through a crack. Could there be a bad seal that is allowing the water in. The proper thing to do would be to repair it wright. However in a pinch I would give the JB a try as a temporary repair.
Bill