Newbie trying to nail down type & brands

   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #1  

Catia1313

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Greetings All, I'm here to learn, & seek advice. We will be moving rural, just a small almost 2 acre lot. We will most likely be purchasing used & within 150-200 miles of SW PA. I am trying to narrow down what would work best for me/us & have read here for a few years while I dreamt of getting out of the city. Now it appears to be happening for real, so I need assistance.
Mostly this will be used for cutting grass, but I would also like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other, & possibly plow snow, but the plow isn't as necessary.
I drool over the Wheel Horses, but know they aren't often available. Other brands we are considering are ariens, bolen, honda, craftsman. No MTD.
Neither my hubby, nor I have ever operated a riding mower, or tractor, so we are serious NEWBIES. Please be kind, because I may ask stupid questions. We are in our 50's, so we've got a bit of catching up to do. Again, this will be primarily for mowing, however we need some hauling capability. The property is a mixture of flat area and slopes. We are on a budget and will probably not be purchasing from a dealer, we will be looking locally in rural areas because there are lots of used available. Thank you in advance.
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #2  
Neither my hubby, nor I have ever operated a riding mower or tractor.

Tractor will be primarily for mowing, however we need some hauling capability.

The property is a mixture of flat area and slopes.




T-B-N ARCHIVE:

I have a 5 acre property that's divided into "upper" and "lower" by a reasonable slope. Approximately 2 acres is house/driveway/yard, the remaining 3 acres is wooded. I have a shared 1/4 mile gravel driveway.

Immediate need is maintaining the driveway, mowing, moving materials like mulch, and removing light snow. I see myself cutting paths through the property, clearing some undergrowth, moving some dirt, etc.

So I'm looking to replace my little JD garden tractor with a tractor with a loader and a MM mower deck. I'm stuck at my first decision on whether or not it's overkill to step up to a compact like a 2025r, B2301 or any number of other models.
Click to expand...
For five acres either a subcompact or compact tractor will serve. 4-WD should provide traction on your sloped land with R4/industrial tires.

Have you performed your own service on your Lawn &Garden Tractor? If so, you can perform routine service on either a subcompact or compact tractor.

Subcompact tractors with a Mid Mount Mower have about 3" or ground clearance with mower attached, 9" ground clearance with mower removed. Removing and replacing MMM is easier than in the past but still not fun. Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements.

Compact tractors of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts and usually have three-range (3) HST transmissions. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Either a subcompact or compact tractor will operate a MMM equally well. The compact will be a TINY amount less maneuverable.

If you can afford a 1,600 - 1,800 pound Compact, go for it. If you consider Kubota, focus on the B2650.


The MMM is a inferior mowing option IMO. MMMs cost close to a used ZTR and get in the way of doing anything else. The loader also gets in the way of mowing.
I too recommend a Zero Turn Mower for lawn mowing. Or keep your L&G tractor and skip new tractor MMM. Instead, acquire a Bush Hog with your new tractor for trails and your meadow.


VIDEO: Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube



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I'm looking at a 2012 Kubota BX2660 with a loader and 60 inch belly mower with 50 hours for $11,000. From what I've found that is a very good price around me. Who has this tractor, and how did you like it? I've already read a bunch about being careful with the transmission cooler being exposed. More importantly how does this machine perform dragging/loading decent size logs, nothing crazy. Moving snow, finish mowing without turf tires, moving dirt and gravel, maintaining driveway with box blade. Does anyone have real world experience with the loader capacity?
I have 7 acres, I do all my work by hand right now so anything will be better than that. Where do you think the Subcompact would come up short?
BX series tractor are best regarded as wonderful lawn mowers with the ability to do light landscaping tasks. Kubota sells bazillions of BX tractors yearly and many owners are completely happy with them.

With only 9" ground clearance with mower removed, it is difficult to take a BX into woodlands. Because of low ground clearance, HST cooling fan under the tractor is vulnerable to ground damage. Those who take BX tractors into woodlands often armor underneath. Several venders sell armor kits.

Removing/replacing a Mid Mount Mower, with its front PTO shaft, is a tedious, sweaty task.

VENDER: BXpanded Under Armor


FEL bucket lift capacity is around 500 pounds. Not much by tractor standards BUT SURE BEATS TRUNDLING A WHEELBARROW OF 80 POUNDS CAPACITY. Tractor is 1,389 pounds bare tractor. With a full bucket, the tractor can be a bit unstable.....but so are other tractors. Front axle is thin. Plan to keep 350 to 450 pounds counterbalance mounted on the Three Point Hitch when doing Loader work. Weight behind the robust rear axle unloads weight from the relatively weak front axle.

Four reasons owner/operators trade up from a BX:
More tractor weight.
More FEL lift capacity.
Greater ground clearance
Three-range (3) HST rather than two-range (2) HST on BX. (Lower LOW, Higher, HIGH)

The BX tractors are solid for what they are. Excellent first tractors. Easy to service yourself.

If mowing is your primary task you may be happy for years. BX will do your other tasks but will be somewhat slow. (Allowing for 5" overlap, a 48" Box Blade only works 43" per pull.)

You can tow log sections with a BX and 1/4" Grade 70 chain. Saw trunks into reasonable weight sections. Tractors are designed to PULL.
Cross-drawbar PHOTO.
MORE: https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...h-cross-2.html ((Cursor down to Post #14.))
PHOTOS: KUBOTA B3300SU


Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is generally greater than depreciation on a tractor.
 
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   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #3  
Ground clearance due to larger wheels and tires is the single greatest difference in tractor specs between (all brands) of Subcompact tractors and the lightest Compact tractors. Larger wheels and tires permit compact tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation relative to subcompact tractors. One can mow a field faster with larger wheels and tires. One of two mph with larger wheels/tires will significantly reduce field mowing time.



BX or B??
Property is 8 acres. Flat but bumpy old farmland which hasnt been cared for in 2-3 years.

BX series tractor are best regarded as wonderful lawn mowers with the ability to do light landscaping tasks. Kubota sells bazillions of BX tractors yearly and many owners are completely happy with them on one or two acres.

Minimal 9" ground clearance can make working in woodland difficult. If one wheel drops into a 4-1/2" burrow or rut and a second wheel goes up on a 4-1/2" mound or tree limb you may be stranded. Because of low ground clearance, HST cooling fan under the tractor is vulnerable to ground damage. Those who take BX tractors into woodlands often armor underneath. Several venders sell BX undercarriage armor kits.

Subcompacts have two-range (2) HST transmissions. In HIGH range your max ground speed over uneven ground will be around six mph. You may find traversing eight acres with 400 pound to 500 pound bucket loads tedious at six mph.

Slightly larger 'Compact tractors' of 1,600 - 1,800 pounds bare tractor weight have larger wheels and tires. Larger wheels yield greater ground clearance, usually at least 12", and a much smoother ride over rough ground. With 12" ground clearance you can tractor cultivate a garden until crop reaches 12" to 14" height. Compact tractors have greater FEL lift capacity than Subcompacts. Subcompacts generally draw 48" wide implements. Compact tractors generally draw 54" or 60" implements. Allowing for a 5" overlap in use, a considerable improvement over 48" implements.

Five reasons owner/operators trade up from a BX:
More tractor weight.
More FEL lift capacity.
Greater ground clearance
Three-range (3) HST rather than two-range (2) HST on BX. (Lower LOW, Higher, HIGH)
More tractor engine horsepower to operate PTO powered implements.

For eight bumpy acres consider a Kubota LX2610.

VIDEOS: Kubota BX Series VS. B Series - YouTube

Kubota B265 VS Kubota LX261 - Are they the same? - YouTube
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands
  • Thread Starter
#4  
Let me be a little more specific-we will be getting a CHEAP USED one. From an estate sale, or local seller, or craigslist.
Hoping to narrow it down to something that has enough life left to get us through a season or 2 while we are on the learning curve for learning how to maintain etc.
We can worry about upgrading later-kinda like how you get a teenager a beater car to practice on.
Thank you for boldly highlighting the fact that I have never done this before, in nice blue letters. Hoping that will draw some attention & get me some mercy!
I'm seeing a LOT of older model tractors coming out of the woodwork that appear in nice condition going kinda cheap, they just want them out of the way. So what is a good reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #5  
Congratulations on your new property! The ideal setup for rural properties is to have a dedicated mower and also a 4wd tractor with a front end loader to move and lift materials and run implements of various kinds. A tractor is simply a mobile platform to power implements which do the work. Now, understanding you’re on a budget you can get one machine that’ll do it all but it won’t be as good as two dedicated machines.

Sounds like you’re looking at older riding mowers? The best advice you’ll get here is to get a used machine with 4wd, a front end loader, and a belly mower, like an older Kubota BX sub compact tractor. Especially if you’re in your 50’s you don’t want to be carrying everything around your two acre property by hand. Old 2wd riding mowers really don’t have much capability. They can tow a cart and mow grass but they get stuck easily, don’t weigh very much thus have limited traction, and tend to not be very reliable.

The great thing about tractors is they hold their value way better than most other machines, so even if you spend money on one you can easily get your money back whenever you want by selling it.

Good luck on your search!
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #6  
Here’s an example of an older Kubota BX currently for sale at Virginia Tractor in Warrenton, VA. Not sure what they’re asking for it but you could call and find out.
IMG_9130.JPG
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #7  
Even with a used lawn and garden tractor there is still a broad list of options. A garden tractor is different from a lawn tractor; having a heavier transaxle (integrated transmission/rear axle), being capable of ground engaging (pulling a properly sized plow, tiller, etc), and being in general more stout that a lawn tractor. You'll sometimes see 'yard' tractors; a yard tractor is typically a lawn tractor outfitted with a larger mowing deck and some comfort features, but it's just an advertising term.

I can't add more at this time, but that may clear up some confusion in the market; I'll be back to this thread when I can.
 
   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #8  
What is a good, reliable/easy to maintain/easy to run & learn on? I've seen a few older Honda, Wheel Horse, Ford, Simplicity-and it seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.

The category you are seeking information for is the Lawn & Garden Equipment category. T-B-N has one forum dedicated to this broad category:


Lawn & Garden "tractors", perhaps better titled as "riding lawnmowers" almost always share the following attributes:
  • less than 600 pounds machine weight
  • Gasoline engines rather than diesel engines
  • Two wheel drive (2-WD drive)
  • World standard Three Point Hitch absent
  • Front End Loader (FEL) absent
  • Turf/Lawn Tires
  • Manual steering
The combination of 2-WD, low weight and turf tires can make operation on hills difficult due to lack of traction. Lawn & Garden tractors may be tippy on slopes.

I would like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other.

You may tow at 2 - 5 bushel capacity, dump capable cart, connected to the mower rear drawbar with a pin, across flat ground.

VENDERS: garden tractor cart
 
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   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #9  
I've seen older 1) Honda, 2) Wheel Horse, 3) Ford and 4) Simplicity It seems like people LOVE those & are not so happy with the newer models.

Mostly our machine will be used for cutting grass, but I would also like the ability to haul rocks/dirt/wood etc from one side of the yard to the other.


T-B-N ARCHIVE SEARCHES:

1) Honda
Honda site:tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com

2) Wheel Horse
Wheel Horse site:tractorbynet.com site:www.tractorbynet.com

3) Ford

4) Simplicity
Simplicty tractor site:tractorbynet.com


On this site there is limited input/output in the Lawn & Garden category. Not zero, but limited.
 
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   / Newbie trying to nail down type & brands #10  
Keep in mind that ANY BEATER lawn tractor is just that, a beater than will require CONCENTRATED upkeep and repairs almost continuously. Are you and the hubby up to that task or not. If not, expect to pay a shop around 100 bucks an hour to repair that BEATER and that don't include parts either.

If you don't have the funds to buy a late model one or a new one, I'd wait and buy a cheap push mower for now and get some exercise and save up the money to get something NOT A BEATER.

Beater cars work sometimes but a BEATER car will also cost you in the longer run as well.
 
 
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