NH TC45DA TNT install questions

[MtnViewRanch]

Why the float on the tilt? I thought the top link.

Ideal thing is to have float with both remotes, but since you are using a loader valve, you can't have that. It is nice in certain situations to be able to have your implements be able to float side to side thus the reason for the float function to be on the side link. Ever notice on some tractors that they have a slot in the lower clevis where the pin can be locked in position or unlocked so that there is a side to side floating motion allowed? This is what the float function will do for you. And like with the top & tilt cylinders, you can now do that function without stopping & getting off of the tractor. Just one of those function options that make for a nicer end result that most people are unaware of.

 

[jinman]

Jim I decided to do both now while I'm into it and the overall cost will be less than the 3rd remote kit from my rough estimates. The Joystick w/PB adapter and the diverter with shipping cost $404. I'm sure the rest of the parts won't reach the $860+ I saw on Messicks site for the third remote kit. This way I'll be basically adding 3 additional remotes. I need to find a spot on the loader to mount the diverter valve as I can't put it in the same place as Pine Ridge did because of the aftermarket Curtis Cab I have. The biggest challenge will be locating/mounting the Joystick valve for the tnt that's why I didn't order any fittings or hoses yet. I figured I'd locate make up brackets and mount them then order what I needed to connect the dots.

Any Ideas on where to mount them.

Yep! NH has an idea where to mount "them." It's called the 3rd remote. By the time you do all the electrical wiring, mounting, hoses, couplings and tapping into existing hydraulic lines, you'll understand exactly why the NH remote costs $860. Of course I think the NH price is a rip-off, but it is done based on good info about how hard it is to do all those things you are scratchin' your head about right now. You are paying NH for an excellent solution to getting a 3rd remote. It comes with a kit that almost anyone who can hook up a 3PH can install. It adds a lever right to the right of your existing joystick where you operate both at the same time if your hand is as big as mine. Besides, I think you will find that you rarely need to move your joystick at the same time as your 3rd function grapple. There's no argument that the 3rd function mounted on the joystick is more convenient and a lot more "whiz-bang" than the 3rd remote lever, but I can never remember wanting to use the joystick for anything while opening or closing the grapple jaws.

So, here is what I understand you are planning to do:

1. Mount electrical diverter valve to the loader QC area, and wire a button for activation into your joystick.
- You will run hydraulic fluid to the diverter: QCs to existing points with hoses directly to the diverter.
- You will mount diverter output lines (2 sets: FEL, grapple) with fittings as required and terminate into
female QCs (4) so you can attach both grapple and one axis of FEL to your output.
- Wiring electrical will seem like a dream after running all the plumbing and mounting the diverter.

2. Install a joystick to control your TnT, tap into the hydraulic flow at the diverter valve and return to the diverter valve with PB output of your joystick. With the joystick, you may also need a low pressure "Tank" return line or an installed checkvalve to isolate the "T" joystick output from high pressure. Remember, this is an open center system, so all your hydraulic flow to your rear remotes and the 3PH will have to go through that joystick you are installing inline at your diverter valve.
- Tap into existing hard lines from the Diverter/FEL joystick plumbing,
add fittings to flexible hoses and route at least two lines to your
TnT joystick and maybe three with a checkvalve also.
- Install 4 outlets to the joystick: either hoses with quick connects to
attach to your existing hoses or rigid fittings with quick connects.
If you have it so the hoses attach right at the TnT joystick,
you may need to buy longer hoses for your TnT cylinders.
Either way, you'll have to make sure the hoses are not going
to get jerked out of the TnT joystick when you operate your 3PH lift arms.

So, considering what I just wrote, what are you saving your two extra remote attachments for? What would you ever do that required leaving TnT attached and used one or two remotes? Personally, I just don't understand why you would go to all this trouble and grief to install that TnT joystick. The functionality payoff for all the mess and hassle of the plumbing nightmare is just not worth it. As RickB said, you'll need lots of Dramamine before this is over. I think you also will need an industrial sized 90-day prescription for a load of good luck too. At some point in this build, you'll look at yourself in the mirror and ask, "What the heck was I thinking?" :confused2:

I wish you a bunch of good luck, but if you want to use that TnT joystick, I'd route one of my existing remotes up to it and then attach the outputs to the TnT cylinders. That way it will work like an easy diverter between TnT functions. When You want to use it, activate the joystick with a single remote lever and operate the joystick as required to set your TnT. This will free up one of your existing remote circuits.

Actually, If you wanted to mount another diverter on the TnT like the one you will install on the FEL, you could easily do that on one of your existing remotes and then activate it with a button to change the remote lever's function between Top or Tilt. After wiring up the FEL diverter, you'll be an expert and the 2nd diverter should be a breeze. I just don't want you fool with tapping into your hard lines if you can get around it. The nice thing about using a remote circuit to the TnT diverter or joystick is that once you center that remote lever, your whole TnT circuit is isolated from the rest of the tractor and the open center hydraulics don't have to go through it. Just my thoughts. . . .

 

[MtnViewRanch]

So, considering what I just wrote, what are you saving your two extra remote attachments for? What would you ever do that required leaving TnT attached and used one or two remotes? Personally, I just don't understand why you would go to all this trouble and grief to install that TnT joystick. The functionality payoff for all the mess and hassle of the plumbing nightmare is just not worth it. As RickB said, you'll need lots of Dramamine before this is over. I think you also will need an industrial sized 90-day prescription for a load of good luck too. At some point in this build, you'll look at yourself in the mirror and ask, "What the heck was I thinking?" :confused2:

I wish you a bunch of good luck, but if you want to use that TnT joystick, I'd route one of my existing remotes up to it and then attach the outputs to the TnT cylinders. That way it will work like an easy diverter between TnT functions. When You want to use it, activate the joystick with a single remote lever and operate the joystick as required to set your TnT. This will free up one of your existing remote circuits.

Actually, If you wanted to mount another diverter on the TnT like the one you will install on the FEL, you could easily do that on one of your existing remotes and then activate it with a button to change the remote lever's function between Top or Tilt. After wiring up the FEL diverter, you'll be an expert and the 2nd diverter should be a breeze. I just don't want you fool with tapping into your hard lines if you can get around it. The nice thing about using a remote circuit to the TnT diverter or joystick is that once you center that remote lever, your whole TnT circuit is isolated from the rest of the tractor and the open center hydraulics don't have to go through it. Just my thoughts. . . .

Jim, any hydraulic rear blade or landscape rake along with "TnT" would require 3-5 rear remotes. Most any 3pt implement with a hydraulic actuated motion would need additional rear remotes other that the 2 required for a "TnT" setup. I agree with you though, it is pretty hard to beat going with OEM remotes.

I am currently in the process of adding 3 diverter valves for the rear of my smaller tractor. Only 1 OEM remote available and I need 4. I had added a 2 spool Prince valve when I bought the tractor and though that has worked well for the past few years, it was a bit bulky. When I decided to go with hydraulic angle and offset for my landscape rake, I then decided that the 3 diverters plumbed with the single OEM rear remote would be my BEST option. They look like they are OEM. I will post some pictures once it is all completed.

 

[J_J]

My thoughts would be like this.

Install the diverter valve for the grapple and curl first.

If the two lever loader valve has PB option, install the PB fitting, and then run a PB hose back to the joystick valve for the T-N-T, then to the remotes, and then 3pt. Tie all returns together .

The series path is complete. Now, set all the relief the same as the relief on the first valve.

If the diverter block is the source of pump fluid, go from there into the first valve and connect all the other valves in series, and go back into the diverter block on the tractor for the 3pt. Each valve should have PB .

 

[jinman]

I am currently in the process of adding 3 diverter valves for the rear of my smaller tractor. Only 1 OEM remote available and I need 4. I had added a 2 spool Prince valve when I bought the tractor and though that has worked well for the past few years, it was a bit bulky. When I decided to go with hydraulic angle and offset for my landscape rake, I then decided that the 3 diverters plumbed with the single OEM rear remote would be my BEST option. They look like they are OEM. I will post some pictures once it is all completed.

Yes, yes, and YES to all three diverted remotes. I want Jack to be able to disconnect an electrical circuit, pull quick connect to the diverted remote and be able to quickly remove this whole setup without disturbing the factory hydraulic plumbing. If he ever gets another tractor, doing like you are doing will enable this setup to easily move there. When he goes with breaking rigid lines and then inserting all of this into the middle of his open-center system, he makes installation a lot more complex and the setup has to be considered permanent.

J_J: You are suggesting using PB from the joystick to make this all simpler. Well, the factory joystick already uses PB to feed the remotes and 3PH. That's the rigid line running back to the rest of the system. NH makes a valve that lets the joystick be inserted and then by rotating a manual diverter inside that valve, the main flow is directed to the joystick. The PB of the joystick comes back and feeds the 3PH and remotes. These rigid lines can be altered, but I think both Brian and I think the diverters for the existing remotes can add hydraulic circuits without complexity.

 

[RickB]

Yes, yes, and YES to all three diverted remotes. I want Jack to be able to disconnect an electrical circuit, pull quick connect to the diverted remote and be able to quickly remove this whole setup without disturbing the factory hydraulic plumbing. If he ever gets another tractor, doing like you are doing will enable this setup to easily move there. When he goes with breaking rigid lines and then inserting all of this into the middle of his open-center system, he makes installation a lot more complex and the setup has to be considered permanent.

J_J: You are suggesting using PB from the joystick to make this all simpler. Well, the factory joystick already uses PB to feed the remotes and 3PH. That's the rigid line running back to the rest of the system. NH makes a valve that lets the joystick be inserted and then by rotating a manual diverter inside that valve, the main flow is directed to the joystick. The PB of the joystick comes back and feeds the 3PH and remotes. These rigid lines can be altered, but I think both Brian and I think the diverters for the existing remotes can add hydraulic circuits without complexity.

The addition of a second joystick and PB capable valve is a better choice from a functionality standpoint. The joystick will be self-centering and unless the FEL joystick or T&T joystick are stroked, the 3PT will always be functional if the tractor is running. One OEM steel line will be replaced with a hose/coupler assembly. The same one that is removed when an OEM backhoe installation is made. The return can go where the existing pipe plug is in the OEM remote valve stack end cover. Same as a backhoe return would be. Powering a multiplier via an existing remote will require soleniod selection AND stroking a remote as well as installing a large (3 spool/solenoid) valve body in a small area behind the fuel tank and in between the three point linkage, PTO shaft and drawbar. Much greater potential for damage to an expensive item. I see a single spool diverter just like PineRidge's and the additional joystick for the T&T as a viable solution. The second joystick can easily be removed and theOEM steel line put back in place. The electric diverter would surely stay with the FEL and grapple, and enhance the resale of the item.

This project is all about making this tractor useful and efficient, not the next one the OP buys.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

The addition of a second joystick and PB capable valve is a better choice from a functionality standpoint. The joystick will be self-centering and unless the FEL joystick or T&T joystick are stroked, the 3PT will always be functional if the tractor is running. One OEM steel line will be replaced with a hose/coupler assembly. The same one that is removed when an OEM backhoe installation is made. The return can go where the existing pipe plug is in the OEM remote valve stack end cover. Same as a backhoe return would be. Powering a multiplier via an existing remote will require soleniod selection AND stroking a remote as well as installing a large (3 spool/solenoid) valve body in a small area behind the fuel tank and in between the three point linkage, PTO shaft and drawbar. Much greater potential for damage to an expensive item. I see a single spool diverter just like PineRidge's and the additional joystick for the T&T as a viable solution. The second joystick can easily be removed and theOEM steel line put back in place. The electric diverter would surely stay with the FEL and grapple, and enhance the resale of the item.

This project is all about making this tractor useful and efficient, not the next one the OP buys.

I'm not saying that what you've said isn't true, but there are other ways to get the same results.

Here are some pics of the 3 diverter valve setup that I just installed on my little Mahindra 3215. The 1st pic shows where the OEM remote outlets were and the big Prince valves that I had on there. The other pictures show how it is as of today. the last pic shows that I used the exact same lines to the diverters that had gone to the OEM female ends. I will be installing a new grip on the single OEM remote lever that will have controls for all 3 diverters. Not quite there yet , but much much closer. :thumbsup:

Hope to have a front diverter on soon, then I will finally be all set.

 

[Jackfr]

"The return can go where the existing pipe plug is in the OEM remote valve stack end cover."

Rick are you saying that I can pipe the tank return from the new Joystick into the rear remote valve stack end cap instead of using a "T" at the diverter Block? This would make things easier I wouldn't have to fight with steel tube to get a "T" in line and only have to remove the one PB steel tube and replace it with a hose to the new joystick. Which Plug in the end cap do I use the one facing the side of the tractor or the one facing forward.(see attached pictures.)

 

[Jackfr]

Ideal thing is to have float with both remotes, but since you are using a loader valve, you can't have that. It is nice in certain situations to be able to have your implements be able to float side to side thus the reason for the float function to be on the side link. Ever notice on some tractors that they have a slot in the lower clevis where the pin can be locked in position or unlocked so that there is a side to side floating motion allowed? This is what the float function will do for you. And like with the top & tilt cylinders, you can now do that function without stopping & getting off of the tractor. Just one of those function options that make for a nicer end result that most people are unaware of.

Thanks for explaining it Brian the float should work real well with my power broom.

 

[Jackfr]

Jim

I had originally wanted to add the 3rd rear remote valve kit with an electric diverter valve but the high cost made me look for other ways to operate the tnt. I thought of using multiple electric diverter valves off the existing remotes but figured I wouldn't be able to use two at once by feathering one and the cost would still be high. I figured the most economical way to add two additional rear remotes was with the the joystick. That will give me two with a joystick for the tnt that I could leave connected and two for implements to the rear. I believe the overall cost will still be under the cost of the OEM third remote kit. I ordered both the electric diverter valve which I plan on installing on the front and the joystick to see if I can find a place where it will fit/work, if not it's back to the drawing board and I will have the diverter valve to see if I can use them somewhere to the rear. I doubt very much I will be trading this tractor in the near future that is why I was trying to make it more convient to use the different implements we have. Like many others here it seems I collect Blue tractors anyway our 5000 we've had over 30 years and when the engine blew recently I ended up rebuilding rather than junking it. This 2003 tc45da has over 3200 hours on it and it's used pretty much every day.