Noise in transmission

[Diamondpilot]

I agree with Greg. Do not thread it back in, just set it in the hole and check.

Chris

 

[succor]

Ran the harrows this morning for a bout an hour and got 1 small tap inside. So I brought the tractor back in the shop and open the front lid to see that the oil level covers the bottom set of gears but not the top even with the oil level a bit more full. I'm going to dump the rest of the oil in this chamber and fill everything up so all gears are at least half exposed and run the tractor hot again. One thing to note, the oil looks bubbly on top of the oil surface or foamy might be the better term. I wonder if it's when I added about a liter of transmission/hydrolic oil mixed with 80/90 or if some water got in? I don't think the latter is true because I made a good gasket seal and only ran the new oil about an hour. any note on this? the 80/90 oil wasn't that expensive so I could empty after another good run with it overfull and fill it properly again.

Cory

 

[greg_g]

Well, there are some gear oils that do not have anti-foam additives. That's why - when asked about which fluids to use - we here usually specify "non-foaming/yellow-metal friendly" gear oil.

If you in fact did purchase as recommended, it stands to reason that the foam is likely caused by water contamination. Or else the UTF you mixed in was "wet". Wet fluid will eventually show up as emulsion on the dipstick. But if that doesn't happen, you probably bought gear oil that doesn't have the non-foaming additive.

Don't know whether or not we have the same definition for "not expensive". But you can expect to pay $50-$60 USD for a five gallon bucket of non-foaming 80W90 Coastal GL4/5 gear oil.

//greg//

 

[succor]

I guess I should change the oil. Canadiantire 40 dollar 80w90 oil! Last time I put a high quality oil in with no problems with foaming so done deal. Now, I did another 45 min test with 21 litres of oil! No sounds whatsover, freakin amazing! The oil level is still only 3/4 of the way up the gear boxes but at least somewhat emerged in the front so all the gears are getting a good oil bath!! I think the problem possibly was too little oil the whole time. I will regasket the lid properly after I add the new oil. Everything outside the housings look dry so there are no oil leaks as well.

Cory

 

[Diamondpilot]

I am usually not a fan of additives but that Lucas Gear Oil Additive is some neat stuff. It really makes the oil cling. It may be just what the doctor ordered for you and your machine.

My local auto parts store has a display with gears you turn. The standard gear oil climb only about 1/2 as high as the gear oil with the Lucas additive.

Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer : Lucas Oil

Chris

 

[greg_g]

Expensive proposition Chris. The Lucas TDS recommends a a minimum 50% fill of this stuff to be effective in gear boxes, and that stuff runs about $10/quart. I find a 25% mix of 85W140 to be just as effective. That's what I have in my two tractors anyway 25% 85W140 and 75% 80W90. 25% thickens it enough so it's not too thin in the summer heat. But more than that results in stiff gear trains on cold winter mornings.

//greg//

 

[succor]

Winters hit -35 C here in Saskatchewan Canada. What's your thoughts on 80w90 in that? Pulled the dipstick after it's workout this evening and wasn't foamy at all like before. However motomaster 80w90 is not near as good oil as the 80w90 I had in before which had cl5 specs and anti-oxidation properties in it. Sometimes I wonder if the factory put the wrong dipstick in this machine?!! 21 liters of oil compared to the book value of 11 liters and the chambers are still only 80% full to the top! makes a person wonder.

 

[greg_g]

Winters hit -35 C here in Saskatchewan Canada. What's your thoughts on 80w90 in that?

Regardless of location, I think 80W90 is going to be the "thinnest" gear oil you're going to get. In multi-viscosity anyway. But what's important is the temperature where the tractor is stored. Outdoors at -35C you're gonna be lucky if the tractor starts at all. In an unheated enclosure, you'd still likely need a meaningful cold start package. In a heated enclosure, the outdoor temp doesn't much matter.

What does your tractor Operations & Maintenance manual say the capacity should be? Remember, they may list tranny and mid-connect box separate from the rear differential. In otherwords, you may have to add 2 or 3 box capacities together to get your total. Then there's probably a gallon for the front diffand drive hubs as well. Otherwise, you'll need to contact another FT254 owner and compare markings on the dipstick(s).

//greg//

 

[Diamondpilot]

Expensive proposition Chris. The Lucas TDS recommends a a minimum 50% fill of this stuff to be effective in gear boxes, and that stuff runs about $10/quart. I find a 25% mix of 85W140 to be just as effective. That's what I have in my two tractors anyway 25% 85W140 and 75% 80W90. 25% thickens it enough so it's not too thin in the summer heat. But more than that results in stiff gear trains on cold winter mornings.

//greg//

I have never used it so I did not realize it took that much in the mix. I guess it would get quite expensive. I would do as you said and probably run it over full on the dip stick also.

Chris

 

[succor]

Tractor sits outside but I have an in line rad hose heater to plug in as well as glow plugs so I haven't had a problem starting but it needs to be idling for awhile before I use it. The manual isn't more specific about capacity so I will check more into this.

Thanks

Cory