Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds..

   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #22  
You can get some general info here:

TractorData.com Long 445 tractor information

But there are manuals out there for just about everything. I think an E-Bay search might be a place to start! I'll keep looking for ya! ~Scotty

Edit! OOps! Beat out by JD 3720!! Ya can see we're a helpful bunch! ~Scotty
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds..
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Okay..lots of help Thank you!! I'm off to check out the fluids and oil.... I know I have the 'gear box for the bush hog right! and I just need not to overfill the gear box on the tractor, beef up the RPM's when bush hogging, and make sure I'm in the correct gear.. I may have been in too high a gear.. Having a bit of trouble with the shifting thing too..I hope it's me and I'm not stripping the transmission/ drive train? out.. Thanks again!
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #24  
Do this search:

long+445+Tractor+Manual

You'll find a bunch of stuff that might help...........~S

Edit: I said "search" ! Just type it into your blank browser window....
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #25  
Check the fuel filter. Actually change it. Read the manual first.
oops You don't have a manual. Ahh somebody else chip in. I have never seen one of these things.
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #26  
I used to have an old Long 2360 many years ago.. some observations,
1: there may be a "sight glass" to look at the hydraulic fluid level in the tractor, because there does not seem to be any dipstick. Look around the transmission area on the side. do it in good light or have a flashlight handy. I am not familiar with you model, or I would be more help!

2: Yes the clutch was a little stiff on my Long also. and the gear shift and and range shift and the PTO lever were all "balky" took some getting used to.

3 you probably want to mow in about the top gear in the Low range if the grass is not too high, I think that tractor has 3 speeds, and 2 ranges so total of 6 foward speeds . But what you have to do is guage the ground speed to the job at hand. You would normally set the throttle at the 540 mark on the tach, which will probably be around 2200 rpm or so. there should be a "tick" mark there somewhere which will represent the 540 rear pto rpm not the engine rpm which will be somewhere around 2200 or so engine rpm.
When you are throttled up to that rpm you will have to experiment what gear and range to select that does not bog the tractor down for the material you are trying to cut. Obviously if the grass/weeds/brush is wet you cannot go as fast. Also how comfortable you are on the tractor for the terrain will dictate which forward gear/range to select. you could start out in low range and gear 1 which should just creep along. if that is not fast enough for you then try low range and gear 2 and so on until the tractor starts to lose rpm or you feel uncomfortable with the forward speed.
Now that said. it is kind hard on the pto clutch (again assuming you have a hand pto clutch, not a 2 stage foot clutch) to engage the pto after throttling up the engine, so best thing to do is set the throttle say around 700 rpm engage the pto clutch to get the brush hog going, when it spins up, then give it a little more throttle and let out the foot, or drive clutch, then throttle up to the final 540 mark on the tach (about 2200) rpm. If the tractor has most of its original horsepower (doubtful if it is that old and had dubious maint) then you should be able to pull a 6 foot brush hog in some pretty thick stuff without bogging down. but if it does bog, then drop down to a lower foward gear. I hope this helps a little. PM me if you want.
James K0UA
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #27  
Your best bet is to get someone who knows tractors and give you some ground school on it. Just a walk around pointing out what is what and what goes where. Even if you have to pay or make them dinner its well worth it.

I was in the same situation as you. I knew nothing about tractors other than I wanted one. I had to learn also. Just be careful. Tractors are dangerous if used improperly.

As for the Bush Hog bogging down maybe try a lower gear and more RPM's on the engine. Also check the blades for sharpness. (make sure the tractor is shut down)

Chris
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #28  
So.. the plug under the seat is for the rise and fall hydraulics for attachments only? What lubricates the 'drive part' transmission? Do your think it would be ok to put hydraulic oil in it..I got 5 gals today..I have maybe 1 and a half gal of the fluid left..They look and feel about the same to me..


I have a JD 790 so I can't really speak for the Long brand. Mine uses John Deere Hy-Gard Transmission & Hydraulic fluid which goes in the fill plug in the trans. housing. This same fluid is used to lubricate the transmission gears, rear end & PTO gears, and also used to operate the hydraulic system that powers the front end loader (FEL) and the rear 3pt lift. Many tractors are designed this way and it sounds like yours is too. If you've been shopping for fluids, you probably noticed there is a variety of them for sale so you probably should try and find out what fluid Long spec's for that model tractor.

For my engine oil, I use Shell Rotella T 15W-40 which is formulated for diesel engines. Since you're next door in Georgia, the same viscosity oil would probably work just fine in your Long tractor as well. TSC and most good auto supply stores will have this.

Still working on the assumption your Long has a diesel engine, the radiator fluid uses a special coolant that is designed for diesel engines. TSC will also have this in stock, if there's one near you.

If you can, it would be good to either locate an owners manual for yours, or locate someone who's experienced with Long tractors and has worked on them a fair amount. They may be able to help you with the clutch issue as well. Good luck!
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #29  
Welcome to TBN, modpod77, good to have you aboard.:)
 
   / Ok dummy girl question...Tractor fliuds.. #30  
moeart, I see you are getting some good advice here but I see a few things to add that may make things a lil bit easier to understand.

The difference between gear oil (85-90wt) and hydraulic fluid is the weight of the oil. Gear oil is thicher and heavier weight, used in the older tractors in the transmissions, rear ends, gear boxes on equipment such as the gear box on your bush hog. Hydraulic fluid is more like transmission fluid in a car, it is thinner, lighter weight, not as thick and heavy. The newer diesel tractors usually use what they call JD303, which is basically a hydraulic fluid. The older ones usually use the 90wt gear oil.

I am going to guess that someone told you to run the tractor in a certain gear and set you up to do some bush hogging and it worked well for the situation you were in at the time. But now you are in thicker grass or tougher conditions and you are still in the same gear as before but it is not working. Whoever taught you did not teach you how to judge your area and change your set-up for the job at hand. Sometimes I bush hog in high range, sometimes low range, all according to my conditions. You want your bush hog to turn at 540 RPM's, running freely and not bogging down. I refer to it as "singing", keep the blades turning and the bush hog singing at all times. You can judge the transmission speed and range however you feel is appropiate as long as you keep the bush hog singing, cutting properly. Some of my areas are thicker than other and sometimes I let it get higher before I cut it, all this goes into mind when setting up to cut. If it is thick and tall, I run it in low range and maybe second gear, if short and thin, I may go to high range and first gear. I have run it in high range, second gear and even slow down the PTO rpm's if it is thin enough grass. The thing to keep in mind is if it is cutting properly and not bogging, not having to go over it twice, then whatever gear you are in must be the right one. If on flat smooth ground and the grass is thin, I can move along faster. If it is rough ground and thick, get it in a lower gear and move slower and just "grind away" as I call it, still giving me a good finish cut. Cutting the same areas may differ, all according to how high you let the grass grow before you cut it.

Keep in mind, keep the bush hog singing, select the fastest speed you are comfortable with AS LONG AS you are NOT bogging the tractor and getting a good clean cut.

Now go play with your tractor, learn what we are talking about, get the feel of it, and come back and tell us you got it all figured out.

Tractors are dangerous, be careful. I know of a guy that got off of his tractor, left the bushhog running and stepped on a heavy vine. The bushhog grabbed the vine and pulled it and him into the bushhog destroying one of his legs. I never thought about this until it happened to him, so be careful, but get out there and get the feel of it.

The term "new at tractors" suits you best. Never be afraid to ask and learn what you can. Hands on experience is the best. Just because you are a female doesn't mean you can't learn and be good at it. Give yourself credit where credit is due. I like a female that is not scared to get out there and get her hands dirty as long as she remembers she can clean up and still be a lady when the time calls for it. High five to ya for getting the job done.
 
 
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