Ok, what is this?

[Acethe3rd]

I meant this thread.

Mahindra 1533 HST Won't Start - Relay Issue?

Hello, Mahindra 1533 HST won't start, sounds like it isn't getting fuel. Turns over strong. Please see video linked below. I'm trying to highlight that when the key is in the on position, the relay shown makes a buzzing sound but I'm not positive if it is abnormal. Also, the temperature gauge...

www.tractorbynet.com

Thank you. I will try it.

 

[Acethe3rd]

Connections look loose and dirty. Might be as simple as cleaning them up and connecting them tightly. Doesn't hurt to try at least.

We have done this today and zero power. No lights on dash, no, nothing.

 

[Acethe3rd]

And that I will try Next. Thank you.

We took them apart, cleaned them checked them and reconnected Ed and nothing. No dash lights. Fuses are good, we have checked everything.

 

[PILOON]

On occasion I have noticed corrosion actually creeps its way along the inside of battery cables.
While voltage still flows high amperage does not.
The tip off is when that cable is not as flexible near the end as in the middle.
Slitting the insulation often shows a lot of powdery corrosion, this mostly near the battery.

However most problems often can be traced back to bad grounding.
Good grounds need to be clean bright metal surfaces.

 

[DieselBound]

We took them apart, cleaned them checked them and reconnected Ed and nothing. No dash lights. Fuses are good, we have checked everything.

HOW did you "check"?

Not trying to be flip here, but some kinds of "checking" can fail to actually detect a problem. I've told this story before but I'll pull it out once again...

I was in the middle of a big project and a neighbor wanted to borrow my B7800. That tractor wasn't starting and I couldn't readily determine why: I really had ZERO time to be messing with it (I think the clock was running on some rental equipment I was using). Another neighbor volunteered to troubleshoot. That guy eventually gave up. I believe that he said the fuses were all good. When I finally got around to looking at the tractor myself I pulled and TESTED, with a meter, each fuse and found that one was bad- yes, THE FUSE that was responsible for starting (fuel solenoid and such, I believe). The fuses LOOKED good, but clearly that was an insufficient assessment.

CHECK YOUR GROUNDS! (also, those relays, clean off the lugs really good- pictures show poorly seated relays- it's possible that one of the relays is stuck- poor connection can cause it to over-heat, which then will make them stick; sometimes slamming the relay around, smacking it, can help- better is to just test them)

 

[CobyRupert]

The battery’s ground cable connection at the frame is the cause of many problems on TBN.
Don’t forget to disconnect and clean metal off there.

 

[Acethe3rd]

On occasion I have noticed corrosion actually creeps its way along the inside of battery cables.
While voltage still flows high amperage does not.
The tip off is when that cable is not as flexible near the end as in the middle.
Slitting the insulation often shows a lot of powdery corrosion, this mostly near the battery.

However most problems often can be traced back to bad grounding.
Good grounds need to be clean bright metal surfaces.

They are. That is what we can’t get. Possibility we missed it under the cover on the positive where it crooks under. I am doing a double check again in a few minutes. Thanks!

 

[Acethe3rd]

HOW did you "check"?

Not trying to be flip here, but some kinds of "checking" can fail to actually detect a problem. I've told this story before but I'll pull it out once again...

I was in the middle of a big project and a neighbor wanted to borrow my B7800. That tractor wasn't starting and I couldn't readily determine why: I really had ZERO time to be messing with it (I think the clock was running on some rental equipment I was using). Another neighbor volunteered to troubleshoot. That guy eventually gave up. I believe that he said the fuses were all good. When I finally got around to looking at the tractor myself I pulled and TESTED, with a meter, each fuse and found that one was bad- yes, THE FUSE that was responsible for starting (fuel solenoid and such, I believe). The fuses LOOKED good, but clearly that was an insufficient assessment.

CHECK YOUR GROUNDS! (also, those relays, clean off the lugs really good- pictures show poorly seated relays- it's possible that one of the relays is stuck- poor connection can cause it to over-heat, which then will make them stick; sometimes slamming the relay around, smacking it, can help- better is to just test them)

We took them all out, put the meter on them and they show up good. I am about to start a triple check so see if we missed something. My friend brought his multi meter and we made sure both were working correctly. After he checked things and I had already checked them, then I still have the feeling there is just some, little something we missed. Just finding it. He took the relays off and handed them to me. I cleaned the connectors good with a wire brush. I am about to start the process again. Never give up. Thank you!

 

[PILOON]

Back when I was in aviation we had a circuit that showed proper voltages but would not do its thing.
After much head scratching we discovered inner corrosion of the wiring was the culprit.

Keeping that revelation in mind I applied it to tractor and vehicle troubleshooting as a last resort.
Age and general overall condition is a reasonable clue once all else fails.

Bad or doubtful grounds can be determined usually by using a jumper directly from battery to a good engine bare metal point.
Many ground are via braided straps that easily corrode due to the braiding of that fine wire.

As to connectors, often pulling apart and re connecting is enough to re make a decent connection.
Adding a dab of contact cleaner is also not a bad idea. (WD40 is effective)

 

[k0ua]

Always test for voltages UNDER LOAD. For instance start with the lights turned on, and/or other loads. Now start on the battery post itself by measuring voltage. If good move on to the battery post clamp, if good move on the the other end of this large cable by measuring the voltage at the starter terminal. It is not uncommon to have full voltage at one end of a cable and zero volts at the other end with a load on that cable. WITHOUT a load, the voltage may read good on both ends. Now think about this for a bit, how can a wire have one voltage one one end and another voltage on the other end? BECAUSE often a wire is not a wire any more. With corrosion inside the wire under the cable sheath, where you cannot see it is a white/green corrosion mess that is now a big high value resistor. Without load even a very high resistor will show the same voltage on each end, With load, the resistor will show a drop in voltage whenever current is trying to be pulled. With this in mind, go back and start the voltage hunt again. Remember test under load.