Outdoor Arena Construction

   / Outdoor Arena Construction #21  
we toyed with the same questions about 2 years ago. we built a 80 x 220 outdoor arena for driving horses. i was going to do the work myself, but after checking on equipment rental costs, etc. i found out i could hire someone with a huge front end loader who can do the work in 1 day, as opposed to my renting smaller dozer for 3 days. I had trees, so hired a logger to cut and haul trees (money made from logs paid for his time). then the loader operator pulled all roots from ground and reshaped the arena in 1 day. he dug pit to bury roots in a few swipes. Next year well import a sand/wood chip base to add to it. i wanted to give it a few years to self compact/level off. one side was 4' lower than the other when we started. now its all level. I also added 4 light posts and a speaker system.

Can you give specifics on your lighting system. I am looking to add lighting to our 150'x300' arena this summer but have no idea what to look for. I will have about 400' to run the power to the arena.
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #22  
Can you give specifics on your lighting system. I am looking to add lighting to our 150'x300' arena this summer but have no idea what to look for. I will have about 400' to run the power to the arena.

on my arena i put 28 foot utility poles (treated round poles) set 5 foot into the ground. I installed Lithonia 1000 watt metal halide lights towards the center and 250 watt metal halide lights to the side. on my arena i have 4 of the 1000 watt and 4 of the 250 watt lamps, all wired to 240 volts. I ran them to a lighting contactor so i could control all 8 lights with a single switch.

on a 150 x 300 you would probibly be better off with 6 light standards, using the 1000 watt lamps on the center set of poles and you can use a combination on the others. it all depends on how light you want it to be. ours is plenty bright, but were only spanning an 80-90 foot width. it does tend to be alittle brighter towards the center than the edges.

we pay $0.06/kwh for elect here, so when the arena is lit, were using 5000 watts, or $0.30 per hour that the arena is lit. the wife will use it a few hours a night, maybe 2 days a week, so it doesnt amount to much power usage.

The metal halide lighting is the most efficient for arena lighting (outdoor arena). they do tend to loose some of their brightness over time, but i dont use mine too often, there 4 years old and still as bright as when new. when they get too dim, simply replace lamp. Metal halide lights are the bright white lights used in parking lots.

i can take some pictures of the bracketing used to install the lights tomorrow and post them.
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #23  
GREAT info. Thanks. I'll need to get someone to do some figerin' for me on line loss, wire size, etc. Sounds like a good setup. Would like to see the pics when you get time. Thanks again.
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #24  
GREAT info. Thanks. I'll need to get someone to do some figerin' for me on line loss, wire size, etc. Sounds like a good setup. Would like to see the pics when you get time. Thanks again.

i can do that. im an electrical contractor
would need total wattage of lights plus any other electrical stuff out there, like outlets, etc.

is the nearest electrical panel 400 feet away?? nothing closer
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #25  
Yeah, 400' is it. I have two existing security lights at one end of the arena. I was wondering how I would make out putting 2 of the 1000w metal halide in the middle and 2 more on the other end.
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #26  
if you were to place a total of six (6) 1000 watt lights = 6000 watts set for 220 volts, what i would do is run two #4 aluminum wires plus one #6 ground wire to a small outdoor breaker box mounted to one of the lights, ot nearby (yo can add an additional #6 white wire if you think you'll ever want 110 volts out there at later time). Then land this on a 30 amp 220 breaker at the main panel.

This calcs out as a 4.5% voltage drop, which is fine. you can place 3 of the lights on a single 20 amp 2 pole breaker, and your total connected load would only be 25 amps.

if you were wealthy, and wanted to run copper feeders out to the arena, then you could get by with #6 wires for a 4.4% voltage drop.

you could probably even use a higher % voltage drop if its ONLY lighting, and NO 110 OUTLETS for power tools. we have used #6 runs for a 7.2% voltage drop in the past, and it has worked. the Nat elect code RECOMMENDS a 3% drop, but doesn't prevent you from increasing that. ive seen people run 1000 foot runs of #12 copper to run a gate motor. if you run the figures out, there probibly at 25-30% voltage drop, but the gate does seem to work fine. its hard to argue with them.....till the motor fries i guess.

anyways, lights arnt as sensitive to voltage drop.
 
   / Outdoor Arena Construction #27  
ok...i went to get some pics of the lights today, but its real cloudy out here. hope that these come out ok.

you can buy the brackets at any electrical wholesaler shop. there made by many different companies. i purchased the pole mounting kit, then added the dual swivel arm, then added the actual light mount base unit . all 3 pieces fit together with bolts, and install very easily. all parts are powder coated. The main bracket is bolted through the wood pole.

i was cautioned not to use more than 2 lights per pole, due to the weight and forces of the wind. if i used alum poles, i could add a lot more lights, but just price out an aluminum light pole, and you'll see why i opted not to use them.

i added a sound system so my horses can get used to the sounds and screeching of PA systems. makes them easier to handle in the show ring. I watch other horses go bonkers, while mine keep their heads.

my power source is only about 40 feet from the 1st pole, so i got by with #10 copper wire runs.:laughing::):D
 

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