Oxidation on FEL

   / Oxidation on FEL #12  
You all seem to be missing the big picture. Keeping the bucket edge sharp and shiny (stick it in the dirt everyday to obtain this) cuts wind drag and promotes good fuel economy. This can have a major effect running in high gear, by altering the angle of the bucket. You can obtain greater downforce on the front end to keep it lifting at high speed and upsetting fuel economy. This also works somewhat at lower speed to aid in stability.

tongue-in-cheek-del
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #13  
Interesting thoughts, Del.

Along the same lines, I was thinking of making my own wheel weights, but was worried about high-speed shimmy. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

HarvSig2.gif
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #14  
Harv, you might consider machining wheels out of a solid block of steel (mag style), chroming them, or ultra high polishing, extra thick walls on the wheels would add a lot of weight. Machine an extra thick exhaust stack, chromed of course, and for the south of the border look, add hydraulics and dropping it for the real speedy look, combined with the downward wind co-efficiency of the FEL, you might have a 'real' mower! ;o)
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #15  
I had heard years ago that linseed oil was used on exposed equipment surfaces. Is this true, Or have the years affected my brain waves?

RobertN in Shingle Springs Calif<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by robertn on 9/13/00 07:56 PM.</FONT></P>
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #16  
RobertN, wouldn't that be great for wooden parts on old equipment? As for steel, it would seem to be more of a dust magnet than anything else, as it couldn't soak in, nor sufficiently dry without leaving a sticky residue. At least so it would seem to me. Diesal fuel would seem better due to the oil left after the fuel dissipated, even that will collect dust though.
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #17  
I'm like you, scruffy, the only thing I've used linseed oil on is wood, but I guess a coating of it would ****** oxidation on metal.

Bird
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #18  
Harv,

I have a hay rake, sickle mower, disc, scoop and several other implements that were all horse drawn. Most are near 100 years old and have never been stored except outdoors. I plan to paint them with a rust converter and shiny paint just for ornaments, but all except the sickle cutting blades and wooden parts are in amazing good condition after 100 years. Iron-Oxide (rust) is the protective layer for the steel and most tractor parts are heavy enough that they will not rust out like sheet metal parts.

My tractor stays in the barn, but have not yet made room for the implements, yet. The biggest problem that I have ever seen is rain gets down the exhaust pipe and causes the pistons to seize or rain gets into a clutch and causes it to freeze to the flywheel on gear tractors. Now those are real problems of the weather. It is also very hard on seats. A simple 6 post sheet metal shed can save a lot of maintenance time.
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #19  
Wen -

You've had those implements for 100 years? You certainly don't sound that old. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

If you've read my thread on ROPS options, you know I'm planning on keeping my tractor indoors. In fact, I have the space all cleared out and waiting. I kind of liked this discussion about rust, anyway, since I plan to exploit the longevity of a Kubota, if for no other reason than to maintain its resale value.

Like you, I have room for the tractor and maybe one implement. I might have room for one or two more, but it will require installing another garage-style door to an outbuilding which currently has none.

Now that you mention it, I am reminded of some old blacksmit-forged implements laying around the property. I think they're some kind of harrows or something, but I'm not sure. Next time up I'll take pictures and maybe you can tell me what they are.

HarvSig2.gif
 
   / Oxidation on FEL #20  
Wen,

What rust converter do you use? We are restoring an International Scout II from frame up (still got a long ways to go). We found a product called "POR15". I have not had a chance to see what this product looks like after a harsh winter of salt and cold. But it looks good now. Here is a link to the company mentioned above http://www.por15.com. Thanks.

Derek
 
 
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