Penetrating Oils....best and home made...

[MBTRAC]

Interesting comparative, the acetone/ATF mix is what I was taught years ago -one of the concoctions passed down by the generations.

A few cautionary notes on the acetone/ATF mix:
1. Don't use/allow the acetone mix near/or to penetrate any seals, bearing or nylox nuts it will destroy them!!
2. Don't use/allow the acetone mix anywhere near paint as it will eaten away!!
3. The mix must be made "fresh" for each use also as the acetone evaporates quickly.
4. Acetone is extremely flammable so don't use near a spark/flame

To remove/preserve any rusted or seized bolts/threads mixed 50/50 Acetone & oil (ideally transmission ATF oil but any oil will work from light machine, compressor, engine oil to the ideal ATF oil) - you won't need much just a few drops applied sparingly, leave for day or so & then retry to loosen the bolt if it doesn't work the first time again put a few drops on each day .....etc until it loosens, above all have patience, it will always work after 1 or maybe few more applications !!! (and will avoid the bolt snapping) - I usualy dip a drinking straw in the 50/50 mix (I make only at max. an ounce or two at a time) then place my thumb on the end on the straw & drip the mix on to the bolt/thread.
It all works very simply as the acetone "eats" the rust/crud then evaporates leaving the oil to progressively penetrate/lubricate the thread (repeated applications allow the mix to work its way into the thread).
Acetone can usually be purchased at any auto or marine store in the paint or fibreglass section.

 

[sixdogs]

PB Blaster is easier with no mixing and no highly flamable acetone so it's my first choice. Also, with PB Blaster, i can put a couple drops on something really nasty, let it sit for a day or week or month and it will usually loosen it up. I put some on a 3/8" set screw yesterday that is solidly frozen into a piece of cast iron. I'll add more in a week or so but by spring--when I need the equipment-- it will probably break free.

 

[GraniteState]

P B'Laster or even Cyclo Break-away are both excellent penetrants. As sixdogs said, I just let it soak for a few days before attacking the job. Works just fine. I'm not going to go through mixing this and that when I can just pick up a can. Also as previously said, the concoction sounds like a paint killer, if you ask me.

 

[Scooby074]

Best stuff out of a can in my experience has been Kroil.

Havent tried the Atf mix but i will someday. It looks interesting.

 

[LD1]

The most important thing with ANY of them products is time. If you are in a hurry, none of them will work.

Others already mentioned the issues with the ATF/acetone mix and care must be used. But if working on an old plow or disc or soemthing with no paint left, its great.

Out of the can, kroil all the way. It is pricey though. But really effective.

I have also used brake fluid. It works really well also. But same with the ATF/acetone, it will eat paint.

 

[sixdogs]

It escaped me at the time but it's worth the mention of agreeing with the others on Kroil penetrating oil. Whatever it is and whatever is in it, this stuff is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. If you are trying to take something apart that's difficult, maybe like a smaller set screw deep into a metal that's difficult to heat, Kroil and letting it sit for a while has never failed me. Kroil seems to "creep" into areas you wouldn't think it would.

 

[wthompson]

Kano Kroil works best for me. Were i work we are not allowed to use PB or even take it into the paper mill or power plant, they will confiscate it when they check the work truck. Not sure why? Has to be one of the ingredients...

 

[sixdogs]

Kano Kroil works best for me. Were i work we are not allowed to use PB or even take it into the paper mill or power plant, they will confiscate it when they check the work truck. Not sure why? Has to be one of the ingredients...

I think I know that answer. It could be the silicone in the product that will raise cain with finishes applied elsewhere in the shop area. Silicone apparently prevents adhesion and could affect power plant electronics or paper coatings?

My BIL told me once that they were having a terrible run of bad luck with custom auto paint jobs and couldn't figure it out even after bringing in outside consultants. Turns out the canned spray silicone being used elswhere in the shop was being picked up by the heat and return ducting system and screwing up paint jobs elsewhere in the building and in a different room.

 

[k0ua]

One more vote for Kroil. I have PB and other things, but Kroil is my "go to"

James K0UA

 

[NWOH_Grizz]

Definitely Kroil. PB Blaster isn't too bad either, but Kroil is a great creeper oil and the penetrant of choice here. WD-40 isn't allowed on anything except rusty metal surfaces.