Picked up Woods SG100 monster stump grinder today

[MossflowerWoods]

Yep....weight is your friend for stability. At one point I did consider hanging suitcase weights or some bar-bell weights on my grinder. Instead....after looking things over.....I eliminated the float on the 3 point draft arms.....took off my PATS EZ change when operating the grinder......and tightened up my sway bars. Doing things like this can help to minimize the sloppy hitch situation.....and thus keep the grinder solidly on the ground.

Still.....sometimes I think about adding a few suitcase weights. Cant hurt. :thumbsup:

Foggy,

I hate to threadjack, but...

I'm still thinking about ways to add weight myself and when I explained it to my dealer, he said to try it...

My swaybars (if I am thinking of the right things are pretty tight. How did you eliminate the float on the 3pt? I do not use a Pat's...

My grinder, when it acts up, typically is below grade and the frame & 3pt twist when I try to sweep, and often similarly if I try to go down it simply lifts the frame and 3pt straight up...

I have a nice heavy (350 to 450 lb weight if only I could think of a way to attach it...

Be well all,
David

 

[foggy1111]

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Foggy,

I hate to threadjack, but...

I'm still thinking about ways to add weight myself and when I explained it to my dealer, he said to try it...

My swaybars (if I am thinking of the right things are pretty tight. How did you eliminate the float on the 3pt? I do not use a Pat's...

My grinder, when it acts up, typically is below grade and the frame & 3pt twist when I try to sweep, and often similarly if I try to go down it simply lifts the frame and 3pt straight up...

I have a nice heavy (350 to 450 lb weight if only I could think of a way to attach it...

Be well all,
David

David.....Look in your owner manual for a way to adjust your draft arms......so that they are either in (1) ridgid or (2) float positions. It's just a matter of adjusting a pin and keeper where the lift mechanism joins the draft arm. If you have a JD Quick Hitch....take it off. Basically eliminate any loose fitting joints at the three point.

Regarding weight: I thought about attaching a custom fabricated short iron plate on either side uprights (bolted or welded on) - just long enough to hold a suitcase weight on either side of each upright. This would allow 4 wieghts of 42 lbs each (170 lbs or so) and may keep things more rigid. Saws and grinders like RIGID cutting.

I dont have a problem with the whole machine lifting up......unless I get the skid plate under the cutter head "perched" atop a stump and try to go down. THat would lift the grinder. Is that what your doing?

The purpose of the extra weight is to keep the machine and thus the cutter head more solid and vibe-free as it cuts across a stump. That is one big advantage of these grinders shown above.....MASS. Sorry for the hijack.

 

[Agent Blue]

Thanks for the diagrams and pictures. Both machines look very similar. Are the flywheels direct drive off the 90 degree angle drive ? There is alot of suggestions about belts to take up shock. Also is there a safety such as a shear pin involved ? I am going to fabricate one in the future and don't want to miss out on important features. I also like the idea of a larger flywheel. More clearance and room for additional cutters. Do they recommend cutting in one direction or are there only side teeth on a specific side ? Thanks again... impressive.