pole barn ceiling

[jack707]

Ok thanks Kenny

 

[Cord]

4" will be fine, but you must have a good stone base. 6" of 3/4" gravel with a thick vapor barrier. Driving over the vapor barrier when pouring the concrete will puncture it. The average garage floor and sidewalk is 4" so it'll hold up. The issue is when you start driving heavy equipment over it (semi's, etc) a 4" will crack pretty easily. With a 8 ceiling, that won't be happening though.

8' is too low for that size of building. Go at least 10', 12' is even better. My shop is 14' with a 12x12 door and I would never go smaller. A full size RV just barely fits the 12' door.

OSB will work and with that low of ceiling will be durable. I've seen some use drywall, but your framing must be no more than 24" oc. I've seen corrugated metal used on the ceiling with great results. Very durable and the framing can be spread apart. Plus when it gets dirty you can just hose the siding off. For my shop, I went with some special cross linked poly. The product was flame retardant so I didn't have any issues with using it over head. It was a PIA to put up (and have it look good) so I'd suggest using the corrugated metal.

 

[KennyG]

Just to give you an ideal of what it looks like being installed. Note the framed in access opening. This was a backfit into an existing building. For new construction, I would recommend putting the ceiling in first and then lag bolting attachment plates in for anything like garage door supports afterward.

 

[Mike476]

I like the look of the steel, did you bolt it directly to the truss or did you have to strap the trusses before instaling it?

 

[DJ54]

I just used the 1-1/2" siding screws. A cordless impact driver installing the screws is much better than a cordless drill.

I did this in my other shop almost 20 years ago, and still looks great..!!

 

[Mike476]

Even better, thanks!

 

[KennyG]

On mine, the trusses are on 4 foot centers, so I fastened the steel directly to the truss bottom timber. I think if you have 8 foot centers, you have to run stringers at 4 foot spacing. I used stainless Robertson (square drive) screws, I think 1" long. They were supplied by the steel supplier. I pre-drilled the holes for mine. If you don't predrill, you definitely need to impact drive them.

 

[Mike476]

On mine, the trusses are on 4 foot centers, so I fastened the steel directly to the truss bottom timber. I think if you have 8 foot centers, you have to run stringers at 4 foot spacing. I used stainless Robertson (square drive) screws, I think 1" long. They were supplied by the steel supplier. I pre-drilled the holes for mine. If you don't predrill, you definitely need to impact drive them.

Thanks, I have an impact driver but I think I would likely predrill, my trusses are 2 foot centers so I shouldn't have any problems hanging it directly from the trusses.

 

[srs]

Just to give you an ideal of what it looks like being installed. Note the framed in access opening. This was a backfit into an existing building. For new construction, I would recommend putting the ceiling in first and then lag bolting attachment plates in for anything like garage door supports afterward.

View attachment 348255

Jack, my ceiling (and lighting and walls) are very similar to KennyG. I placed 2 X 4's between the rafters every two feet flush with the trusses. After the vapor barrier was installed I used 3 ten foot pieces, easier to handle, then screwed them to the 2 X 4's. You can see the poor boy's man lift that was set up on the bed of the pickup to move around the building ( 30 X 45 ). It worked really great and was quite safe. I made some Tees to support the panels. You can also see the access panel to get into the attic space.

 

[KennyG]

srs, that "lift" is pretty inventive. I was working alone and using 12 foot sections with a 12 foot ceiling, so I bought a cheap high lift drywall lift on E-bay. I'm going to sell it as soon as I get around to listing it, so the net cost should be minimal.