Pole Barn Layout Opinion

[Tompet]

I had the good fortune of being able to store equipment etc. at a former foundry my friends family owned for the past 6 years or so. Well, most of that property is being sold so pole barn must go up this year. It was pretty nice to have use of the storage while it lasted.

Anyway, I have two layouts based on East/West or North/South position on property. The East West has a lean to on West side so it is a little shorter area under cover. 24’ deep would be a little less money, but that is just not enough room IMO. I am also considering a mezzanine or loft depending on the style of truss etc. I can go with 10 or 12 side walls, but that is another story. btw, I would have a wall separating the shop from rest of space with interior sliding doors I salvaged from an old garage.
Personally I think the N/S layout is better, but the E/W probably “sites" better on the property.

My max. outbuilding height allowed w/o going through a zoning hassle is 21' Also I want to keep the sq. ft. on this barn around 1,200.

What I really would like to do is a large add on to the house attached garage, but that is not going to happen this year if ever. If that was the case, I would then make this pole barn slightly smaller (even for tax purposes), but I need to have enough space this year to be functional. My original idea was to just make it a simple 26’ x 40’ drive through with 18’ garage door on each gable end. But then I had the idea of a shop area and loft....on and on.

Anyway, I was just looking for opinions on the layout ideas.

One other question, I found a Monitor barn style (proportionately in photo) that could be adapted for my use which would be 40 across by 32 deep. So that would give me a center 16 wide shop area with two 12 wings for equipment along with a door on back end of center section. In some ways it would make a loft simpler to construct. I think I could get it under height restriction with 5/12 scissor truss on central section. But with the interior posts and working in garage door size I want (9' or 10' x 8 minimum) it might not be as functional as straight rectangle style. Anyone have monitor style for equipment rather than livestock?

 

[truckdiagnostics]

Check out my pole building post doing same thing right now. Stayed away from scissor truss, two hard to finish and insulate inside if i wanted too. Went with 16' side wall, height restrictions are going to kill you so scissor truss might help. I wanted the height for property resale, so someone could get there large 5th wheel RV in. Also, wanted height so I could put storage above room in the back.
http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/build-yourself/327399-pole-building.html
You could also go with scissor truss and roll up steel door then you can get that taller door, have to design that front truss for door load.:2cents:

 

[LD1]

I like the main door on the gable end. THats how I am doing mine. My old building had all the doors on the eave end. And with only 8' high doors, I had to keep the snow cleared otherwise the roof of the truck would hit the building when pulling in. It was a hastle.

Door on gable end solves that. And also, with going 18' wide for the door, that takes a pretty substantial header that adds cost. With the door on the gable end, the header wont be nearly as expensive.

As to the moniter style, I think they look good as a building. But thats about all I like about them. They cost more per square ft due to complexity. I'd rather put that money towards something more usable. Like more sq footage, thicker insulation, etc. Rather than on something that just looks appealing.

 

[erda]

In regards to the orientation of your build, try to avoid having doors facing north. If you get much snow or rain, it takes too long to thaw/dry.

I think the monitor style is really interesting. If you're concerned about poles, you could always use a LVL or glu-lam to span between the gables.

 

[JerryK]

I like having a drive thru setup... don't have to back trailer into/out of barn. My 40x80' has doors at each end, with a 16' work area section in the center w/tarp doors in that center section. Heat the center, but can drive thru either way if I open the tarps. Helps with a 3/4 ton truck with 16' trailer. In the spring and fall, you can open all the doors when the wind is right, and use a leaf blower to clean the krap out of it real quick...

 

[Tompet]

Hey, thanks for the replies. I should have put an arrow on the orientation. On the N/S the 18' door would be facing south. And the
E/W the 18' door would be facing north. But I am not too worried about snow.

I figure one 18' door even with header expense is less than 2 10' wide doors and their headers, plus no center post. Do you agree with that?

lD1 I have seen quite a few of your posts on pole barns and I agree the monitor is more complex. I see it as using more standard lumber rather than attic trusses etc. for the other layouts. I agree erda, a couple of big headers could remove a center pole on each side but that would add to cost and maybe complexity. Although on this project I planned to spend some money on details to get what I prefer...I want to be happy with it for a little while!

I think what I am kicking around mostly is if I should just build a straight storage barn and drop the workshop idea for now with the hopes of adding that to the house garage in the future. Or do what I can now.

But all of your points are appreciated and I value your experiences and comments. It will help.

 

[Tompet]

I like having a drive thru setup... don't have to back trailer into/out of barn. My 40x80' has doors at each end, with a 16' work area section in the center w/tarp doors in that center section. Heat the center, but can drive thru either way if I open the tarps. Helps with a 3/4 ton truck with 16' trailer. In the spring and fall, you can open all the doors when the wind is right, and use a leaf blower to clean the krap out of it real quick...

Lol, 40'x80' now your talkin! Room for everything! I agree with the drive thru doors as I am doing that in one fashion or another as I showed on plans. Keeps stuff from getting buried, pulling out mower or tractor etc.

 

[SPIKER]

One thing I wish I had done differently on ly barn is that I had raised the 1st floor height. Several reasons for this want.
1. can't put in much of anything for a LIFT should I ever need/want one (my barn is 8'h x 9'w door)
2. Low side wall height means the lean too off the N side is only 7' under the sides so can't back tractor/implements under it from side.
3. If i ever want to add side lean too green house type to south side it too will be low height.
4. Lighting in the barn 1st floor is not great when they are only 9~10 feet up...

I have gambrel style barn with 2nd floor which being 38' wide (12' lean too) makes it 50x50. I would have been better off to cut down a tree and go 14'x30'x60' w LVLs for 2nd floor so it would have been open without the row of center posts. Yes less overall floor space but would have been a bit more useable for maintenance & less walking in/out & around. That also would have left the lean too adding MORE space for storage where as now the 50'x12' can't be accessed as easy with low height overhang...

Other thing is I would have used wider overhangs on the end walls & set up BOTH end walls for a later porch overhang at least on the front Garage Door opening so a car port could be added easier. (Adding Header to attach the car port roof too so a pad out front of the garage door could be added at 16 or 18feet high so a lift could be put in for car/truck maintenance.)


in 2003


(note pic taken in early AM sunrise on east face of barn, North side is shaded lean too.) Placement for prevailing winds ARE important when you live on top of a hill, the prevailing NW winds actually break on the corner of my barn so it cuts wind forces. NOW there are a LOT of big trees I planted to the NW side to block wind SOME but 10 more years it should be very wind resistant.]



Mark

 

[bspeedy]

Mine is 40x72 with five 12x12 doors across the long side. A big building for sure, but you can't make them too big. Don't let anyone talk you out of the 18-foot door in favor of two 10-footers. That middle post is the biggest hassle you can imagine. Any chance I / we can talk you into going a little taller? 10 foot door height is great, 12 is better. Never know when you'll own a camper, boat, taller cabbed tractor, etc. In both designs, the shop area will be inaccessible by anything other than foot traffic. When I see 'shop' I think car repairs, etc. No way to get a car / truck / tractor in there that I can see, unless you take everything out of the garage. Put a garage door on that shop area and you will thank yourself later. Even if it is just a wood shop, bringing in stock will be very challenging from the garage. Good luck.

 

[KennyG]

Everything I currently own will go through an 8 foot high door, but I wouldn't want anything less than my 12 foot ceiling. When you are working with lumber, pipe, angle iron, etc, it's nice to not worry about the ceiling height. Also, I have a 9 foot wide door and a 12 foot wide door and I'm surprised how much more care it takes to move things through the 9 foot door.