Power Trac 425/1430 feel/size compared to SCUT/CUT

[johara1]

I think I would have two machines first a 425 for the bucket andforks and any other attachment you may need and a zero turn to cut the grass.... The most stupid thing I hear is to load a pick up truck ... only to shovel it off by hand... BTW when you talk about a Ventrac and the power bucket it spread tri axles load of stone and crushed brick and mulch and sure dug a lot of dirt with one. yes it doesn't lift very high but high enough to get the job done. Then put the mower and cut the grass and strip it at the same time.... Difference in decks 3/4 bolts holds the high lift blades on the Ventrac and a 5" roller with pillow blocks at each end. 3/8 bolts hold the flimsy blades on the powertrac mower with two plastic wheels in the back and no bearings ... Flat yard you can't beat a zero turn, they go up and down hills good too. Time wise nothing will touch them and a quality cut..... jim

 

[SpringHollow]

I bought the PT1850 just because my ground is both very wet and steep. MUCH better than any SCUT or CUT that I have had for those conditions. The ground impact is less than my ATV.

 

[tommott77]

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.

I was able to get to Tazewell a couple weeks back. It was 20 degrees, snowing, and icy out so only got a quick test drive on a 425. The 1430 was too large for really what would be needed at my home property. The 425 is about the perfect size for that work though and in the last couple weeks I think I have come to conclusion that I want to hold onto the 3025 up at the mountains for good. It probably won't see too many hours but it'll always get some use going up and down the mountain at the very least.

So I am considering purchasing a 425 for the work at home to replace my 1025. I'm still considering Ventrac/Steiner, though have not gotten seat time on one yet. I'm also considering a garden tractor with an aftermarket FEL as well. Mowing will be 85% of its duties. I didn't get a chance to run the PT425 with a mower during my short trip up there would like to get some impressions on mowing capabilities/performance.

Couple more questions on the 425. I have a lot of trees/obstacles to mow around at home. I see that the website has the 425 listed with an inside turning radius of 37" and an outside turning radius of 95". My John Deere 1025, which it would be replacing, has a published turning radius of 87", but when I measure it myself the the rear tires have a total turning circle of about 54". I'm not sure how turning radii are exactly measured but was wondering what people see in terms of real world experience? I know in practice that a MMM on a 1025 should have a smaller uncut circle than the front mount mower on the PT425. Will the PT425 be able to cut around a tree or will you have take a couple runs around it?

Also curious how the loader mount mower works in practice as well. Obviously it should be able to reach under some areas you could not get to with a MMM, but can it be manipulated with the lift, curl, dump to get down into a ditch line for example?

I'm not much of a leaf raker and was wondering how the mower does with mulching? I somewhat doubt it but is there a mulch kit available for the mower? If not are the blades cross-referenced with something else that can be swapped with gator, mulch blades?

Lastly I would need to some heavy duty mowing from time to time. How does the brush cutter do and what size material will it be able to handle? I have tiny 42" flail mower that I run on my 1025, which I actually like a lot. I believe I've read that flail mower was once available on 425 but am not seeing it listed currently on the price sheet. Would it be at all feasible to add to a hydraulic motor to my 42" flail mower and run that on the 425?

 

[SpringHollow]

FYI, If you can weld and do plumbing, you could convert your flail mower to run on the 425.

Ken

 

[m5040]

I have the 180 which uses a smaller deck then the 425. I think it does great for brush cutting. To me it is the most maneuverable tractor I ever operated. I was down at Tazewell 2 weeks back and bought a second articulated blade rotary cutter. Now I have a beater for brush and one with sharp blades to cut grass. It does an all right job when the blades are sharp.
One difference on an articulated tractor is that the mower moves right and left as you move the steering wheel and the tractor bends in the center, so you can cut right up to a object as close as you dare and make instantaneous adjustments just by a slight movement in the steering wheel.
The way a CUT takes a turn is the front wheels pull you sideways, if in 4x4 and then they tear up the grass, so you loose the 4wd advantage to keep the grass in better condition, especially if week after week you drive in the same exact pattern. The articulated vehicle acts totally different with the wheels always pointed straight ahead.
You have a tough choice, too bad you didn't get more face time in on the 425.

 

[BigDaddyEureka]

@tommott77 - On the turning circle with the PT-425, it's VERY tight. Much tighter than my friend's 2-series Deere for sure. More importantly for my purposes, when you've got it "on the stops" it doesn't tear the turf, even with the bar tires on mine. Very pleased with the turning radius so far!

 

[tommott77]

FYI, If you can weld and do plumbing, you could convert your flail mower to run on the 425.

Ken

I’ve seen the attachment plates that they have. Putting and welding that together with the 3pt setup on the flail would be easy enough. Not sure what’s involved with finding, sizing, and fitting a hydraulic drive motor th

 

[MossRoad]

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.

Hey all, sorry I have an update albeit a late one.



NO APOLOGIES NEEDED

I'LL POST IN ALL CAPS NOT TO YELL AT YOU, BUT SO I CAN ANSWER AS MANY QUESTIONS AS POSSIBLE, SO PARDON MY CAPS.



I was able to get to Tazewell a couple weeks back. It was 20 degrees, snowing, and icy out so only got a quick test drive on a 425. The 1430 was too large for really what would be needed at my home property. The 425 is about the perfect size for that work though and in the last couple weeks I think I have come to conclusion that I want to hold onto the 3025 up at the mountains for good. It probably won't see too many hours but it'll always get some use going up and down the mountain at the very least.



So I am considering purchasing a 425 for the work at home to replace my 1025. I'm still considering Ventrac/Steiner, though have not gotten seat time on one yet.



VENTRACS/STEINER ARE BETTER LAWN MOWERS THAN PT. NICER CUT QUALITY.



I'm also considering a garden tractor with an aftermarket FEL as well.



WHY? JUST CURIOUS. IS THAT IN ADDITION TO A PT OR STEINER/VENTRAC, OR INSTEAD OF A PT OR STEINER/VENTRAC?



Mowing will be 85% of its duties.



ARE YOU GOING TO MOW WITH THE FEL ON THE GARDEN TRACTOR, OR IS IT EASILY REMOVABLE.



I didn't get a chance to run the PT425 with a mower during my short trip up there would like to get some impressions on mowing capabilities/performance.



I WILL TRY MY UNBIASED BEST (SNORTS LOUDLY).



Couple more questions on the 425. I have a lot of trees/obstacles to mow around at home. I see that the website has the 425 listed with an inside turning radius of 37" and an outside turning radius of 95". My John Deere 1025, which it would be replacing, has a published turning radius of 87", but when I measure it myself the the rear tires have a total turning circle of about 54". I'm not sure how turning radii are exactly measured but was wondering what people see in terms of real world experience?



ON A PT, THE REAR WHEELS FOLLOW THE FRONT WHEELS IN THE SAME TRACK. IN TIGHT TURNS, BOTH THE FRONT AND REAR HAVE THE EXACT SAME INSIDE AND OUTSIDE TURNING RADII. IT WILL MAKE A PERFECT CIRCLE ABOUT 6' IN DIAMETER.



I know in practice that a MMM on a 1025 should have a smaller uncut circle than the front mount mower on the PT425. Will the PT425 be able to cut around a tree or will you have take a couple runs around it?



WITH A 6' CIRLCE FOR THE TRACTOR AND ABOUT 18" LESS WITH A 6' MOWER, YOU'LL LEAVE A 4'6" CIRCLE OF UNCUT GRASS (APPROXIMATELY).



SO A MIDMOUNT MOWER WILL PROBABLY CUT CLOSER TO A TREE TRUNK IN A CIRCLE. BUT WITH EITHER, MIDMOUNT OR FRONT MOUNT, YOU'D STILL HAVE TO MAKE PASSES NEXT TO THE TRUNK. SO THE POINT IS MOOT.



I PUT 5' MULCH CIRCLES AROUND MY FRUIT TREES IN THE LAWN, AND THAT SOLVES THAT.



ONE PLACE THE PT DESIGN DOES BETTER THAN A MID MOUNT IS THAT YOU CAN MOW UNDER THINGS BY ABOUT 3'. SO IF YOU HAVE LOW HANGING BRANCHES, YOU CAN REACH IN THER WITH THE FRONT MOUNTED PT MOWER.



ANOTHER PLACE THE PT DESING DOES BETTER IS CUTTING INTO AN INSIDE CORNER. I HAVE SEVERAL. I CAN DRIVE INTO THE CORNER FROM TWO DIRECTIONS AND ONLY LEAVE ABOUT A 12" ARC UNCUT IN THE CORNER. EASY TO GET WITH A WEED EATER. A MID MOUNT CAN'T GET THAT CLOSE.



Also curious how the loader mount mower works in practice as well. Obviously it should be able to reach under some areas you could not get to with a MMM, but can it be manipulated with the lift, curl, dump to get down into a ditch line for example?



YES, YOU CAN DROP IT DOWN A BIT LOWER INTO A DITCH FROM THE SIDE OF THE DITCH. OR YOU CAN PUT THE FEL IN LOCK AND HANG THE MOWER OUT OVER A DITCH A COUPLE FEET. HOWEVER, CAUTION THAT THE DITCH BANK DOESN'T GIVE WAY. YOU CAN ALSO MOW UP THE SIDE OF A DITCH OR STEEP EMBANKMENT. I HAVE A CUT THROUGH A HILL FROM THE HIGHWAY INTO MY REMOTE PROPERTY. THE SIDES OF THE CUT ARE 45 DEGREES AND ABOUT 6' UP THE BANK. I CAN PUSH THE MOWER DECK UP THOSE SIDES AND MOW THEM WITH EASE. THE PT425 WON'T CLIMB THAT SLOPE, BUT THE MOWER AND HALF THE PT WILL. IT'S PRETTY NICE FOR THINGS LIKE THAT.



I'm not much of a leaf raker and was wondering how the mower does with mulching? I somewhat doubt it but is there a mulch kit available for the mower? If not are the blades cross-referenced with something else that can be swapped with gator, mulch blades?



SINCE THE BACK OF THE MOWER IS OPEN, IT DOES NOT MULCH. NO MULCHING KIT AVAILABLE. WITH THAT SAID, THERE'S NO BAGGER, EITHER. SO I JUST KEEP THE BLADES SHARP (I HAVE TWO PAIRS OF BLADES FOR QUICK SWAP OUT) AND DON'T LET THE GRASS GET TOO HIGH. THEY HAVE A SMALL BOLT HOLE, SO UNLESS YOU BUY THEM FROM PT, YOU'LL HAVE TO SEARCH FOR THEM ON THE INTERNET. I LIKE THE CUT QUALITY FROM MY PT, BUT THE STEINER/VENTRAC WILL DO BETTER.



ONE THING YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT THE PT MOWER DECK FOR A 425. IT HAS CASTERS ON THE FRONT, BUT THE BACK WHEELS ARE HARD PLASTIC. THEY DO FINE IN SLIGHT TURNS, BUT IF YOU TURN REALLY SHARP, THEY CAN DIG IN AND SLIDE. LIKEWISE, IF YOU'RE STOPPED AND CRANK THE STEERING WHEEL, YOU CAN SWING THE MOWER SIDE-TO-SIDE SEVERAL FEET. THE REAR WHEELS CAN DIG IN AND SCRAPE SIDEWAYS. THIS HAPPENS IN WET SOIL. ON DRY GROUND, IT'S NOT AS NOTICEABLE, BUT JUST BEWARE THAT IT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU TURN TO SHARP WITHOUT MOVING FORWARD OR BACKWARD.



Lastly I would need to some heavy duty mowing from time to time. How does the brush cutter do and what size material will it be able to handle?



THE 42" BRUSH CUTTER IS THE MOST DANGEROUS PIECE OF EQUIPMENT I OWN, HANDS DOWN. ANYTHING THAT YOU CAN PUSH OVER WITH THE DECK WILL BE DESTROYED. I'VE TAKEN DOWN THOUSANDS OF 2" OAKS WITH IT.



I HAVE GONE THROUGH THE THICKEST OF WEEDS, TALL THISTLES, SOLID WALL OF GREEN MATERIAL. 13' 6"+ HIGH THISTLE. HONEST. I STOOD ON THE CANOPY. IT'S 5'6" HIGH. I'M 6' TALL WITH AN 8' REACH. I COULDN'T REACH THE TOPS OF THE THISTLES. I JUST DROVE RIGHT THROUGH IT AND ALL THAT WAS LEFT WAS A CARPET OF GREEN SLIME AND CHIPS. IT IS A THING OF BEAUTY AND TERROR AT THE SAME TIME.



I have tiny 42" flail mower that I run on my 1025, which I actually like a lot. I believe I've read that flail mower was once available on 425 but am not seeing it listed currently on the price sheet. Would it be at all feasible to add to a hydraulic motor to my 42" flail mower and run that on the 425?



YOU'D HAVE TO FIND THE HP THAT THE FLAIL MOWER REQUIRES. THE PT425 PUTS OUT 8 GALLONS PER MINUTE AT 2500PSI. THAT = 11.6HP.



THEN YOU'D HAVE TO FIGURE THE RPM REQUIRED BY THE FLAIL MOWER. I'M GUESSING 540RPM, LIKE A STANDARD TRACTOR.



THEN YOU'D HAVE TO GET SOME HYDRAULIC CALCULATORS AND FIGURE WHAT DISPLACEMENT HYDRAULIC MOTOR WILL GIVE YOU 540RPM AT 8GPM, AND MAKE SURE IT CAN HANDLE 2500PSI.



I BELIEVE A 3.42 CUBIC INCH DISPLACEMENT MOTOR WILL GIVE 540RPM AT 8GPM.

Surplus Center



ANYHOW, THAT'S A LONG WINDED POST. HAHAHAHA.

HOPE THAT HELPS.

HAVE A GOOD EVENING.

M.R.

 

[spechols]

This is great information - thank you

 

[johara1]

This started as a person shopping for what brand of tractor to purchase. So just because you are satisfied with a 2' high loader doesn't mean anyone else will be. You keep bringing up the 425 which cost $13,200 and comparing it to a Ventrac that cost $22,600 and you still can't match it. You should compare your machine to the 1430 which is still cheaper($18,800) then the ventrac and is a much higher category of performance. When I look at the Ventrac site, they tell me that it has better visibility so we now know there are mistruths in their advertising. On the visibility topic, tell me why they still put the engine in the front and then have to put steel weights on the back? The PT out of the box comes balance and ready to perform to spec. and no hood to try and look over to see what your implement is doing. With a front engine it would be better getting a CUT like a Kubota and not buy a Ventrac that has a Kubota engine and still have your implement driven by a fan belt.
And really if you thing about it, your finish mower is $5,500 and the rough cut mower is $5,000. So for those 2 implements you have $10,500 added to the price. The 1430's mower only cost $3,100 and $1,600 respectively, a $5,800 savings over Ventrac!! Money to buy more (less expensive) implements. How can you still continue to argue this????

Very easy, I have both and you are just making an assumptions....... jim