Prime new fuel injector pump?

[SnowRidge]

I don't believe so. If I'm not mistaken, there's a check valve on each outlet.

And that valve gumming, getting corroded, or having dirt under the seat will prevent the engine from running properly, but it will only affect one cylinder.

 

[Willl]

Richard, can you take a few pump close-ups and post them ?

 

[Richard]

The pump only moves a tiny bit of fuel. It takes a long time to prime empty injector lines. How long did you crank it with the lines on and at least one of them cracked? The pump probably will not draw properly unless it is working against injectors and full lines. It is not designed to operate without the lines on it, not to mention the possibility of dirt getting in those openings.

I was and still am hoping this is sort of the reality. I cranked it enough that it took a fully charged 1 year old battery and essentially, ran it down to veryyyyyyyyyy weak.

Probably can't get back to it today but if I can, I'll try it again with injection lines attached to injectors (though I DID try that also, but maybe I wasn't patient enough.... I can't think though, that it would "cost" running through a charged battery in cranking to finally get fuel through?)

 

[Richard]

do you have the fuel shut off on the pump its self?

If you mean the injector pump, I'm unaware of any shutoff on it?? The throttle is open (as though the tractor would be running at full rpm's) if that is what you mean??

 

[Richard]

Richard, can you take a few pump close-ups and post them ?

Will do, but not sure if I can do today...wife & honey doo list and all that kind of stuff . Like right now as I'm typing... I'm sneaking away from dust mopping the hardwood floors in HER closet.... Pardon me while I re-adjust my maid outfit....

Anyone like hairy legs?

 

[Richard]

Ok, I took some time out to get a couple pictures.

First picture is of the pump with the fuel lines to injectors attached.
As you can see by the state of shine.... this pump didn't originate off this tractor

the second picture shows the injectors. The top left circle is the fuel return line and you should be able to ascertain red fuel in there which tells me the pump is pumping SOMETHING??

 

[SnowRidge]

I think this service manual covers your machine. If so, there is good news and there is bad news. The good news is your injection system appears to be self bleeding. The bad news is the self bleeding isn't working.

Anyway, take a look and see if this book helps. It appears to be completely readable through the Google Books web site.

 

[Richard]

This is an International 444. So far, I can't tell that this book covers it (slow modem is taking foreverrrrrrrrrrrrrrr to download it all)

Aside from that, I DO know the only way to bleede this is to crack the injectors so I don't think this specific tractor is self bleeding, presuming that means one doesn't have to crack an injector.

I WILL look closer though and I'll see if I can poke around where you found that for a 444.

Tomorrow is getting close....those guys at the service shop don't know they've got a phone date with me in the morning

 

[Willl]

The end of this pump has a splined shaft, doesn't it ?
Was it splined so it would only fit one way ?

Reason I ask is if it isn't timed correctly, priming it now will be just for practise.

Any hoot, we need a good flow out #1 bleed screw with key off.

DO NOT crank with #1, #2 or any connection between injector pump and fuel tank open. All your going to do is suck in air.

If you can't get full flow from #1, work your way back to tank till fault is found.

 

[Richard]

The end of this pump has a splined shaft, doesn't it ?
Was it splined so it would only fit one way ?

Reason I ask is if it isn't timed correctly, priming it now will be just for practise.

Any hoot, we need a good flow out #1 bleed screw with key off.

DO NOT crank with #1, #2 or any connection between injector pump and fuel tank open. All your going to do is suck in air.

If you can't get full flow from #1, work your way back to tank till fault is found.

The drive shaft has more of what I'd call a keyway. It will only fit in side the drive head one way. It's a slot and pin kind of thing. IF it was out of time, then it would be (I suppose) only one rotation out of whack. The guys at the service shop told me this could NOT happen....that as long as the two were mated properly, there could be no mistiming.

to clarify your instructions above... would you suggest that I tighten down ALL the lines to the injectors or leave them open for a crack of air to bleed out?

I'm beginning to think from what you say, that I need to seal up the entire system and ONLY then, try to bleed that lower port. I'll admit that I do not think I've accomplished that specific goal. I think I've always had the connections at the injectors themselves cracked open (best case) all the way down to totally removed (worst case)

I'll have to give it a try tomorrow. Thanks