3-Point Hitch PTO Seal leaking

[Bronco82]

So... I had a shorter PTO shaft with my rotary mower, so I purchased a PTO extension from the local TSC. Did my back field a few times with no concern at all, worked great.

Come snowfall, I hooked up the blower, keeping the PTO extension on. Bad idea. With the longer shaft, raising the blower up, ended up pushing the extension into the seal and destroying it. Got it back into the garage, took the blower off, and put a new seal in. I must say it went in fairly easy. Filled it up with fluid and tried again. Worked great for about 10 minutes, at which point I noticed fluid on the driveway. Immediately yanked the PTO shaft off, pushed the seal back on, as it seemed to almost walk itself off, kept the PTO shaft off, and just used the loader for snow removal. Ten minutes later, noticed more fluid, again, pushed the seal back in, it held for ten minutes or so, and then leaked again.

Attempted to put some RTV silicone on the seal to get it to hold in place better, but same results.

Attempted to put some red Loctite on it, but wasn't thinking and put it on both, the outer edge and inner edge, completely forgetting that the inner edge has the shaft spinning through it, so bent that seal taking it off before I even tried to see if it would have held.

Tractor is a B2650, confirmed it's the same part number from the destroyed seal and the replacement seals I have purchased, and we keep getting more snow here.

Please help. New seal versus destroyed seal.

 

[Dman1981]

Look at your housing make sure you did not push it open or crack it with when you ruined seal

 

[Bronco82]

It APPEARS to be alright.

 

[Dman1981]

The only other thing I have done is
Find an aftermarket seal if possible sometimes they are a tighter fit
Or go back to kubota and see what's up. if you use any type of sealant area must super clean and must sit 24 hours for complete
Also check and see how much in and out play is on shaft should be near zero

 

[Bronco82]

There is no play in and out, and only about 1/32 of an inch up and down, but really gotta try and move it up and down, just to say that there is some play there. Nothing side to side either.

It is looking like I will attempt the red Loctite after thoroughly cleaning the contact edge, and let it sit 24 hours prior to filling it back up to use. We keep getting dumped on here with snow.

 

[Dman1981]

Don't miss the white stuff
Good luck

 

[rScotty]

There is no play in and out, and only about 1/32 of an inch up and down, but really gotta try and move it up and down, just to say that there is some play there. Nothing side to side either.

It is looking like I will attempt the red Loctite after thoroughly cleaning the contact edge, and let it sit 24 hours prior to filling it back up to use. We keep getting dumped on here with snow.

Loctite just doesn't have much gap-filling properties. Are there any marine shops near you?
Boats are always dealing with shafts that need thelp holding seals in place.

I'd go with a marine polyurethane sealant like 3M 4200 Fast Cure polyurethane - usually in the big caulking size tube. It is - non-hardening and non-permanent. Very, very sticky and gap fills well. Resistant to just about everything, but you can remove it if need be. 3M 5200 is more permanent...you would have to grind or scrape it out. Both are expensive....$35/tube and you only need a dab. amazon has it. Some hardware stores too.

As an alternative, I would look at Devcon or similar gray (not clear) two-part epoxy... but would prefer the one part polyurethane.
Be sure to keep it away from the bearing.
Luck,
rScotty

 

[etpm]

There is no play in and out, and only about 1/32 of an inch up and down, but really gotta try and move it up and down, just to say that there is some play there. Nothing side to side either.

It is looking like I will attempt the red Loctite after thoroughly cleaning the contact edge, and let it sit 24 hours prior to filling it back up to use. We keep getting dumped on here with snow.

Red Loctite is the wrong stuff to use for cylindrical fits. There is a green Loctite for this purpose. 609, 603, 638, and 648 are some numbers to look for. Please look online for the stuff best suited for your application. I think 638 might be best for you. It will fill a .25mm (.010") gap. Link: LOCTITE® 638
Just use the red stuff for threads, as that is what it is made for.
Eric

 

[Bronco82]

I have looked at the marine polyurethane, but I believe most things said it adheres well to wood, gelcoat and fiberglass.

As for the green Loctite in the 600 series, I believe that stuff is much more applicable in this case, and a friend happens to have a bottle I can have as none of the local stores carry it.

Now, a coworker who was previously a mechanic mentioned taking a punch and sporadically making little indents on the side of the cover, where the seal seals. This would be to cause it to have some teeth, so to speak. Said it's what he did previously for dirt bike bearings that used to come out when there was too much of a gap.

Thoughts?

Appreciate the assistance though folks. Looking forward to being up and running again to move snow.

 

[LouNY]

The small indents will actually raise the surface surrounding the prick mark, it is much like the process of knurling to reduce diameters of bored holes.