Pulling Trees Down With The Tractor

[bcarter]

I worked for a site developer for a while and he would always take down a tree using a large backhoe or an excavator before using a saw. He'd dig around the tree to cut some of the roots and then push it over intact. Once it was on the ground we'd get the saws out to cut it up and then dig out the remaining roots. His theory was that with the tree still intact it was easier to control (especially the large ones). The only time he would NOT do this was if the tree was already dead. The problem with dead trees is that they tend to come apart when you push on them - the lower part of the tree goes where you want, but the upper part breaks off at the push point and comes down on the operator!

I've done a couple this way myself and am in agreement that they are much easier to control this way...but in general I try to leave trees where they are if I can!

 

[kensfarm]

The timber tool was $345.. I think that would be worth the cost even if it only saves your life once.

Safety story of how not to do it.

Back when I was in highschool.. I was helping my dad take down a tree that was leaning towards a friends house.. there were two trees side by side.
First attempt.. 5 ton chain wench.. logging chains connected to a cable that was looped around the tree as high as we could get it.. long story short.. cable snapped.. 25 feet of logging chain hit me in my chest and threw me back like an NFL linebacker had tackled me.. luckily I was wearing a heavy coat.. no injuries.
Second attempt.. rented enough logging chains for the entire setup.. I was on the chain wench.. my dad was chainsawing the tree.. as the tree was cracking.. something caught my eye.. called for my dad.. no answer.. ran around to find my dad sitting on the ground.. saw some blood running down his face.. he had his eyes open.. said he couldn't see. A limb the thickness of your leg.. 25 ft long had broken off from one of the two trees.. and hit him on the head. He had a lump the size of a softball on his head.. in the end he was okay. The force of the blow.. had also broke some of his teeth.. and gave him arthritus type pain in his neck, shoulders and back.. the docter said he didn't know why it didn't kill him.

It's dangerous work.. I'm 40 now.. but that memory is as clear in my mind as the day it happened. Be safe!

 

[Youare]

As I have read several posts lately using tractors to push trees over a lesson in a tree felling course I took comes back to me. The short course was put on by Soren Ericson who has been training loggers for years in better felling practices.

One danger pushing a tree over with a skidder, dozer, small tractor is pushing the butt of the tree off the stump allowing the tree to fall back onto the piece of equipment doing the pushing. Forestry equipment you will notice has a rugged cage protecting the operator from things falling on his head.

If you are pushing a small tree with a loader bucket raised as high as it will go then the chances are better the tree will go in the right direction. However, if there are any branches of the falling tree that contact branches of a standing tree next to it and they get broken off they can come falling down on your head and the ROPS is not going to help you much.

One other danger when pushing a tree over with a tractor comes from the type of hinge and notch made. Most people make the first bottom cut parrellel to the ground and the second notch cut down from the top at a 45 degree angle.

You now have an opening that will close up when the tree is only half way to the ground. The hinge you created to control the fall now has to break off. This could allow the tree to twist and roll off in another direction or jump backwards off the stump in your direction.

Making the first notch cut up at a 40 dergee angle and then the second cut down at a 50 degree angle makes a notch of 90 degrees. Now the tree can fall all the way to the ground without the hinge binding. Chances are far less of the tree rolling off to one side if it contacts another tree limb on the way down or jumping backwards off the stump.

When ever you use a rope, cable, or chain to pull a tree over make sure you get it as high as possible to gain the greatest amount of leverage. It is best to use a snatch block to pull at a right angle to the direction of the fall.

I shutter at some of the bone headed things I have done over the years not thinking before I cut. I had a similar situation using my truck to assist pulling a tree over. Tied a rope way up in the top made my notch and put some tension on the tree. I was all a lone so no one could drive the truck while I cut. Truck was on a slight down hill so I put the truck in netural placed a log 8 feet in front of the truck and let gravity pull tree and truck which stopped when it got to the log. It worked fine but was still a stupid thing to do.

Becareful out there learn by someone elses mistakes. You can have total control of the tree from the time you begin your cut until it is on the ground.

Randy

 

[alpha]

had a small but tall oak I cut to build my house. It was a " no brainer" small heavy lean away from everything, the notch was textbook as I made the final cut it started in the right dirrection then a huge gust of wind sent it back to me. I had my path clear as usual to run just in case, yep I needed it. All was ok It missed me and there was no more wind that day and none before that! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[WCarlson]

zuiko,
I paid $321.65 including shipping in July 1998 for mine. I believe that Norwood is the only dealer. I called them on the listed phone number. I have to agree with some of the other posters that it is expensive. However, it is not as expensive as an emergency room visit or a demolished tractor.
Bill

 

[TWINKLE_TOES]

<font color="blue"> I'm sticking with the saws, wedges, and if needed, 100+ ft. of log chain.
</font>

You have a good chance at Great Grandad, not sure about some of these other folks.

 

[PhilNH5]

Randy,
Boy do I now count you among the lucky. I would love to take a Game of Logging course taught by Soren Erikson himself. I have read lots and apply as much as I can in the few trees I take down. But taking a class would be way cool.

Phil

 

[JoeR]

What is the consensus on felling trees?

Dig out around the root base and pull it over with chains from a distance? Stump and all come out...

Or cut the tree, then pull over with chain from a distance and dig out the stump after felling the tree?

What is better method?

Thanks,

Joe

 

[Fungus]

Well, I take’em out both ways depending on the situation. If I’m building over it the stump definitely needs to come out. Otherwise, its just aesthetics and I either grind it down below the surface or just leave it for a plant stand.

Our typical tree is oak and about 2’ to 3’ diameter and 60’ to 100’ tall. For me, taking out the whole tree (including the stump) is much more work that just cutting it down.

Easy:
<font color="blue">see here</font>

Lots of work:
<font color="blue">see here</font>
<font color="blue">see here</font>

To cut a tree it takes a few minutes to drop it, then the rest of the day to limb it and process it for firewood. To remove the whole tree takes about 2 days to dig it out, pull it over, limb it, dispose of the stump and process it for firewood.

By the way, my workday is pretty short – late morning start, lunch, short afternoon. But I get it all done using only a chain & come along, chainsaw, tractor & splitter.

Since this is the Safety Forum I gotta say this type of work is very dangerous. Every tree is different and has the potential to behave unexpectedly. There is no exact methodology when it comes to removing trees. It’s based on available equipment, understanding its capabilities, physics, goals, and the tree.

Oh yeah, I don’t use the tractor to pull’em over. I use a chain & come along for that.

 

[Renze]

I prefer to push the tree over before i use a saw. (at least, when i need to have the stump removed)

When the crown of the tree is leaning over a bit, the weight of the crown of the tree that is coming down, helps you to crack the roots, the weight of a falling tree helps more than a pulling tractor...

On trees bigger than 25 cm, it is better to dig around and cut one or two roots before pulling, or pushing it over.