Putting in an 800' driveway through the forest, advice and tips needed.

[EHR]

If you want to check out how we did our driveway, 1100 feet with 200 ft at a 20% grade and brought the power in send me a PM. We are just outside Manchester, NH. 3 yrs ago we paved the steepest part but prior to that it was crowned gravel with minimal loss. I did have water bars and drainage to both sides.

 

[Fixemall]

Check with your local town highway super, road millings can be had on the cheap if they are working close to your property, I built my driveway up 4' with them and have ran fully loaded 18 wheelers on it with no issues.

 

[EHR]

It is my understanding that in NH it is hard to get recycled asphalt. The EPA requires it to be returned to the plant instead of being sold.

 

[fishfactor]

It is my understanding that in NH it is hard to get recycled asphalt. The EPA requires it to be returned to the plant instead of being sold.

Same in NC. This just started recently. They are required to recycle it back into the new asphalt along with old shingles. A few years ago you could get all you wanted for free. Now you can't even buy it. I just tried to get several thousand tons for my long drive. They were milling 2 miles from my house. I even offered to pay for it, but they had to haul it 40 miles back to their yard to recycle.

 

[Carl_NH]

It is my understanding that in NH it is hard to get recycled asphalt. The EPA requires it to be returned to the plant instead of being sold.

My neighbor (an excavation / public works contractor) seemed to have access to materials like this - put this down on his driveway base late 2010 with a stone base then blackpack about 100 yds - compacted it and then put asphalt on the top last year. I understand things change but it may be more who you know.

 

[Piston]

Check with your local town highway super, road millings can be had on the cheap if they are working close to your property, I built my driveway up 4' with them and have ran fully loaded 18 wheelers on it with no issues.

I did meet with the road agent a couple months ago and asked him a little about what he recommended. I didn't ask about recycled pavement though and I will ask him next time I run into him. I do not believe we are 'supposed' to use it but it's worth a shot.
I'm a little overwhelmed by all the different names for different sizes and types of base material and driveway gravel, like crusher run and #2 commons or whatever, it seems it varies by region. Anyone know of a good source (or can explain real quick) of what that all means in NH and what would be good for base coat (over fabric) and then whatever to use on top? This driveway is going to be a heck of a learning curve for me, and I know it will be a lot more expensive than I am envisioning, but will want to keep the costs low at first.

Brian,
How would my 46hp Bota pull that 7' grader blade in tough conditions? It weighs 5500lbs with the rears filled and FEL. I know a lot of people throughout the country since my line of work is spread all over the place, so you never know when one of my friends is going on a road trip with their pickup truck Probably wouldn't work out, but I'm interested nonetheless.

I understand things change but it may be more who you know.

Carl,
I "know" you, and you know your neighbor, so maybe we can work out a deal: :laughing:


EHR,
I'm certainly interested in hearing all about how you put in your driveway, especially because you another NH guy and conditions are probably similar, although mine won't be so steep! :thumbsup:
Feel free to post all you want in this thread, or if you rather i will PM you.


For digging up the topsoil with the FEL on the 410, do you think I would benefit from adding a tooth bar to it? It would be about 600 dollars or so and I would take it off each winter, as it's mostly used for commercial snow removal. If it would make a huge difference I will invest in one.

 

[JoeL4330]

You asked: How would my 46hp Bota pull that 7' grader blade in tough conditions? It weighs 5500lbs with the rears filled and FEL.

Not Brian, but I pull an 8 foot Landpride RBT35 w. full hydraulics (angle, tilt, offset, and a hydraulic tailwheel) with my L4330 ...and have no problem. The worry in "tough stuff" is usually tearing up the blade--that is, the tractor overpowers the blade; on mine I have "cushion valves" on the angle hydraulics to cushion the shock...

The 8 footer is heavy, but not really a problem to lift with the tph and the weight is quite helpful in doing a "cut" ...again, watching out for that immoveable (rock or root) object.

I also have a 7 foot manual tilt/angle/offset that's sitting here in Harpers Ferry WV, if you get this way.

 

[Piston]

Sorry, I meant to say land plane not grader blade....woops

 

[ragkar]

It sounds like you're getting good advice. How about this.
Once you've selected your driveway path, mark every tree with surveyors tape (ribbon). You can get it cheaply from harbor freight.
I'm thinking that things look a lot different from the elevated seat of a tractor. And once a tree is down, there's no replacing it.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I also have a 7 foot manual tilt/angle/offset that's sitting here in Harpers Ferry WV, if you get this way.

Joe, is that manual blade a Land Pride also, what model number? I may be interested. :licking: