Quick Oil Change Shops (Cars)

[DK35vince]

10 years in Michigan?
And the rust/body rot ????

Spray/undercoat them with oil or Fluid Film (or something similar) every year makes a HUGE difference.
I spray our cars every year.
My truck is 28 years old. (1991)
Wife's car is 14 years old. (2005)
Son's car is 16 (2003)
Minimal rust on any, and they run in salt/calcium every winter.

 

[fried1765]

Spray/undercoat them with oil or Fluid Film (or something similar) every year makes a HUGE difference.
I spray our cars every year.
My truck is 28 years old. (1991)
Wife's car is 14 years old. (2005)
Son's car is 16 (2003)
Minimal rust on any, and they run in salt/calcium every winter.

Inside the door panel lower seams?
Inside the rocker panels?
Inside headlight and taillight cavities?
Behind fender liners?
For pickup only .....cab corners, and inside tailgate?

How do you reach those areas?

 

[the old grind]

Inside the door panel lower seams?
Inside the rocker panels?
Inside headlight and taillight cavities?
Behind fender liners?
For pickup only .....cab corners, and inside tailgate?

How do you reach those areas?

Ya can't! .. Let it rust!!

As Sigarms reminds us: "Just because you can't do everything, doesn't mean that you have to choose to do nothing." (not joking)

My Fluid Film 'kit' included the 'flexie' extension for hard to reach places. You fish it into the deep and dark, then hit the trigger as you draw it out.

Then I found that there's an undercoating biz that's as thorough as I hoped to be by ordering the delux application tools. Krown, they call it, and it's a lanolin-based product like FF. It's also not easy to find a franchise if you don't live near the Canadian border.

I hope to take my truck to get a Krown undercoating. I don't expect it to be perfect. I expect to pay </= $150. (I might touch up the bottom over time with the 2 gal I bought.) If I see a rust spot or two five or ten years from then I'll be glad it wasn't three or four.

I think SA get's it.

 

[Ortimber]

Every shop in our area from the quick lubes to the small independent shops use sub par, cheapo filters. If I have to go to one of these places (rare) I bring my own filter. The quick drain time doesn't bother me as much as using $3 filters.

 

[HillStreet]

I drove a company car for 28 years and went to Jiffy Lube 95% of the time. Estimated average 60,000 miles a year is 1.6 million miles, plus my personal car, kids cars, and wife’s car. Had only one event where the car smoked hard on the turnpike. I exited, went to a Goodyear place and they found a bent oil filter where it would not seal. Jiffy Lube paid that repair. Overall I know the reputation of the quick lube places but I will still go there.
BTW I always drive out of Jiffy Lube, Park in any parking lot for two minutes with the car running, then drive away looking for a puddle or drops.

 

[Diggin It]

AutoZone is running an Oil Change special like they often do. $35 for 5 qts of Pennzoil Pure Synthetic and a premium Fram filter. Picked that and I guess I'll do it in a couple weeks once I get most of my wing back in use.

 

[DK35vince]

Inside the door panel lower seams?
Inside the rocker panels?
Inside headlight and taillight cavities?
Behind fender liners?
For pickup only .....cab corners, and inside tailgate?
How do you reach those areas /

For some hard to get places I put a flex extension on my spray gun.
For inside doors, I open the doors where I have 1/2" holes drilled and capped. I remove the cap and spray into the door.
I have 1/2" holes drilled in my door jambs to reach cab corners, the side of the tailgate, inside the bed to reach/spray into fender wells/side panels.
Stick the spray gun in the holes, spray, replace the plastic caps.

 

[Ritothebull]

The local Wal Mart service center here is pretty good and you can get any oil they sell in the store, they also will let you bring your own filter which is handy when you have a diesel. Bunch of old-timers working there that take their time, they can also order you any brand and model of tires you want.

 

[3Ts]

I do all my tractor work as well and oil changes are measured in gallons instead of quarts when the hydraulic oil is changed out. It costs $200 to get the tractor into the shop before they start any work on it, so I do what I can and pay the dealer for what I can't do. Since I have all the equipment to change gallons of oil on the tractors, it's pretty simple to do the one on the car and check all the fluids, etc. It also makes sure I check the vehicle over and under when I do an oil change, it's not likely to get done otherwise. Also, if I had the shop do the car, it's a 60 mile round trip and have to wait the better part of a day. I've been known to leave a business after waiting what I consider to be "long enough".

 

[Cat_Driver]

For the last 15 years, I've always taken my own oil and filters to every vehicle, truck, tractor, etc to the dealer and have them do the work.
They usually give me a good break only charging me the labor portion of their advertised oil change.

Last week at the Ford dealer I brought my own stuff for my diesel truck and I think I was charged $30.00.

The main reason I do the dealer is they have a record of the work proving I never touched the equipment so if things so wrong with a warranty or lemon law they are responsible.

I won a Lemon law case because of the dealer being the only person touching the vehicle. Yes I know that you can change your own oil per Lemon law, but it made my case close in two weeks rather than years of fighting how often I changed the oil and prove it.