Ready to Order This Month - But what to order?

   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #61  
<font color="blue">Perhaps, a little, but only in unique situations. </font>

I think it would be in all situations. On flat ground, if you move the tires out 1 inch on each side, you are lengthening the lever, or increasing the leverage on the hub. I agree it is probably not enough to make any difference, but it is there continuously. And if you were to ride on the outside edges of the tires(which probably won't happen due to the oscillation in the center joint), you could add quite a bit of leverage against the hubs. The folks at Power Trac have mentioned to several folks that they don't recommend dual wheels on the PT425 as it would put too much side load on the wheel motors. My assumption is that moving the single tires out a few inches would have the same effect, only not as great.

However, with all that taken into consideration, I agree with you that it is up to the owner to use his/her machine as best suits them. The Power Trac is a mighty little machine that begs to be tweaked by the owners and customized to suit our needs. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #62  
<font color="red">The folks at Power Trac have mentioned to several folks that they don't recommend dual wheels on the PT425 as it would put too much side load on the wheel motors. </font>
Hans and I asked the question again when we were there. Terry said that the increased leverage of duals also had the potential to bend the tub at the motor mount. He didn't say it would always happen, but that it was a possibility. (Picture the outside of outer dual front tire running over the dirt pile as you are maneuvering away with a newly filled bucket.)
I got my 1845 because of the need to use it on steep hills. I only have single tires on it, however, because I already know I will never try a hill that needs the duals. Obviously, a wider stance reduces rollover risk, but also reduces handy maneuvering on the level, and is harder on the machine. Hill safety is a lot more related to the good sense of the operator than to the configuration of the machine.
<font color="blue"> And no cracks please about someone who hangs around with Bubenberg opining about good sense.</font> /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #63  
"Hill safety is a lot more related to the good sense of the operator than to the configuration of the machine.
And no cracks please about someone who hangs around with Bubenberg opining about good sense."


/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #64  
<font color="blue">And no cracks please about someone who hangs around with Bubenberg opining about good sense. </font>

We'll try to be good. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sedgewood
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #65  
i guess a 30 degree slope to me is nothing steep,it's the 1to1 or the1/2to1 that get old dressing them. so from 30 years of doing this, what i'm telling you is fact not what was in a book.i think that if you break a hub or an axle on the down side from the increased load from reversing the wheels the ending will be ugly.if it was made to do this i would not have a problem with it. 30 dgrees is as steep as this thing will go,you can hardly stay in the seat.that so called rops won't help you.i looked all over one for a reg.number,none to be found so i wouldn't bet my life on it. i guess it will stop twigs and the sun.
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order?
  • Thread Starter
#66  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

No! No! No!

Using a narrow track with high traction wheels on a hillside is a recipe for a tip over or roll over!!!
)</font>

I can say 'AMEN' to that.

Over the years I've done both, that is, slid down a hill sideways (not altogether heart-stopping) and, as a young and foolish person tipped (potentially heart-stopping/life-ending).

Didn't care for either, but prefer being alive to the alternative as this point.

The beginning of slipping is a much more benign indicator of going beyond the capacity of the machine than an uphill wheel lifting, which, as we all know, quickly escalates into terror!

Mark H.
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #67  
After reading this interesting discussion about reversing wheels, recommended or not, I was wondering about the differences of wheel motor stress by reversing wheels vs. picking up near 1000 lbs in the bucket day after day.....
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #68  
<font color="red"> i guess a 30 degree slope to me is nothing steep,it's the 1to1 or the1/2to1 </font>

Johara:
If I'm reading that right, the 1:1 is the vertical to horizontal ratio, so the angle would be 45 degrees. The 1/2 to 1, if the 1/2 is the vertical and 1 is horizontal is actually less than 30 degrees. 30 degrees would be .57 to 1.
I apologize for picking nits, but there are at least three ways to define slopes: degrees and rise to run ratio (tangent) as you have expressed them and the railroad use of percent grade, the tangent expressed as a percent, where 30 degrees would be 57 percent grade and 45 degrees 100 percent.
There have been some other threads on slopes and slope meters, where we've had problems standardizing the nomenclature.
I do not disagree with your conclusions at all. What measures 30 degrees with a protractor feels seriously steep, although you and others may have considerable experience working that steep a hill. It is uncomfortable at least and most likely dangerous if not worked with skill. If you get sliding, the machine may trip and roll or break something as it slides into something.
My 1845 is rated for 40 degree slopes when the dual wheels are mounted. I don't have duals and would not go on a 40 degree slope if I did. That would be .83 to 1 or an 83% grade.
The ROPS don't have certifying plates, but they appear to me to be strong and well attached. A neighbor of ours was killed in the rollover of a Kubota which had a ROPS certified by somebody or other. My reconstruction was that he got pinned to the ground by the side of the ROPS, which was possible even with his seat belt on. I certainly agree with your recommendation to avoid situations where you are empirically evaluating your ROPS.
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #69  
you have a good point,it well shorten the life some. but you don't do this that often, it can do it but you learn to load 3/4 of a bucket instead of a heaping full one to carry.on the other hand if it broke something with a 1000 lbs. in the bucket the odds are in your favor to come out alive, not like something comming apart on the side of a hill.the best thing pt. could add as an option woud be the draft control this would help on the hills more than anything.it would help greatly on the safety too. lowering the center of gravity,instead of running around in float.this is the reason the red ones get around better. i can carry a half a bucket of stone up a hill without a lot of trouble but it's hard to push the mower up the same hill it will spin.take it out of float,put a little weight on the tractor and up you go. same way on the side of the hill you need a little weight on the tractor or it will crab,or ride up the arms and lift a front wheel.
 
   / Ready to Order This Month - But what to order? #70  
i guess the small companys i work do things a little diff.,2 to1 2 is th horz. 1 is the vert. 1to1 is 1/2 to 1 it's hard to keep a n 345 cat excavator on.let me see Dick Corp., Trumbull, Lane corp. all do it this way. Lane has about 200 million dollars work just at the D.C.area
 
 
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