Ready to Order This Month - But what to order?

[Charlie_Iliff]

<font color="red"> 2 to1 2 is th horz. 1 is the vert. 1to1 is 1/2 to 1 </font>
Apparently that's a fourth type of slope definition. I don't understand it, but it highlights the problem: there isn't a uniform method of defining slopes, so if we have a discussion where the amount of slope is to be measured, we have to be sure we're doing it the same way.
There are a number of slope meters for mounting on tractors, and some people like to have 2, one for side-to-side and one fore and aft. Because the surface is so important, I haven't gotten a meter, but I'll bet my eye-rump inclinometer hits a limit at about 30 degrees. Less if it's slippery.

 

[johara1]

charlie, the horz. is always first the vert. is second.now you find slope stakes marked 1.33 to 1 the next one maybe a 2 to1 so the change is called a warp,all slope stakes are marked on the work side. using percent or degrees it comes out the same. 1 to1= 45 degrees =100% you will find percent used on flat grades and pipe(percent of fall)on sanitary and storm sewers

 

[smartguyz]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( PTRich,

You might want to try Mobil 1 20W50 in your machine. We change all our equipment to this oil and it improves performance a great deal. I understand Mobil 1 is coming with 5W50 and 0W50 which might work better in your area. Mobil 1 20W50 is thiner than standard 5W30 in cold weather and thicker than 10W40 in hot conditions. Since the oil film is thicker when your machine is hot, less oil slips thru the motors without doing work, thus efficency is improved and your machine will climb better, run cooler, and last longer. In my opinion its worth the extra 200 to $500 to change the oil. I understand PT not using Mobil 1 as standard, most folks would complain about the cost of this "expensive" oil. You might want to give it a try.
EB )</font>

Hi EB -

I have been unable to locate 20W-50 Mobil 1. Is it possible that you are referring to 15W-50?

Sincerely,

-Rob

 

[FOURTEEN]

"" Mobil 1 20W50 is thiner than standard 5W30 in cold weather and thicker than 10W40 in hot conditions. ""

Sorry blackwell, but you are only half right!!

Mobil 1 20W50 is THICKER than standard 5W30 in cold weather. Did you mean 0W50??

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[blackwell]

Thanks, 0W50 is better if available, but if you over lay the viscosity graphs of 20W50 Mobil 1 with most 5W30 or 10W40 mineral based oils yor will find the 20W50 Mobil 1 is thinner at low temps. Oils are like HP, threre are a lot of scales to measure each with different results.

The further south you are the higher the first number can be, but if it is readilly available use 0W50 which helps with cold starts and does not shear down at high temps. I understand it will be nationally available this year. You have to use the best that is available in your area.
EB

 

[FOURTEEN]

I use Amsoil in everything.

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[SnowRidge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I use Amsoil in everything. )</font>

I had a buddy who bought a new Chevy 4x4. He put Amsoil in both differentials, and the rear end promptly disintegrated. GM wouldn't repair it under warranty--said it was caused by the Amsoil.

My buddy filed a claim with Amsoil, and after some hassling, they coughed up the full repair bill. This was 25 years ago, but it comes to mind every time someone mentions they use the stuff.

SnowRidge

 

[FOURTEEN]

I trust that in the ensuing decades since this unfortunate occurrence Amsoil has rectified that problem and gone on to produce some remarkable new products. Since lubricants are their only business, I doubt that they would still be in business 2-1/2 decades later if that occurrence was indeed typical!!

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[MossRoad]

Remember slick 50? I saw it when I was in my early teens and it is still on the market 30 years later.... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

although, I've never read too much on Amsoil, I've heard way more good than bad about it.

 

[SnowRidge]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( emember slick 50? I saw it when I was in my early teens and it is still on the market 30 years later....

although, I've never read too much on Amsoil, I've heard way more good than bad about it. )</font>

I've heard good and bad, most of which I ignore. I've known a few individuals that ran the stuff and swore by it, and others that swore at it.

My buddy's bad experience is the only one that I know enough about to accept at face value. I know he babied his vehicles and was knowledgeable about their operation and maintenance. Whether Amsoil caused or contributed to the loss of the rear end or not, they did pay for the damage, which says something to me.

Beyond that, I would never use the stuff. I want oil that I can buy locally. There is plenty of quality synthetic available from the major oil companies at the auto store in town. In fact, I just switched to Havoline synthetic in the PT. It's $2.78 a quart locally.

SnowRidge