Recommendation for 6 acre hobby farm

[m7040]

Having enough weight is safer in the long run by making the tractor more stable. And will protect you in case you make mistakes in lifting loads. In my case I have cast iron wheels, dual wheel weights and loaded tires as well as a 72 inch tiller to act as a counter weight and that allows me to pick up big loads and still be stable

 

[WinterDeere]

I'm thinking JD 2032R would suit you just fine. These small units can get a lot of jobs done just fine. I've been overly happy with my JD 2320 for 11 years and glad I didn't go bigger.

I tested a 2032R for a few days, was truly between that and the 3033R. I will say the 2032R has fantastic ergonomics, way better visibility and seat access than the 3-series, I really enjoyed them. In the end, I went with weight, as one of my primary uses is moving heavy logs with loader. The 2032R was just a bit light for my requirement, despite being a more enjoyable machine to operate.

The 2032R is better for yardwork tasks, aerating, seeding, fertilizing. The 3033R is better for loader tasks, moving logs, snow plowing, etc. If I had a 7th garage bay, I'd have just bought both.

 

[Eagle1]

While I agree those big heavy machine are great, you do have consider your access. I still have my BX because there is no way I get my LS 3135 into places. Around my lagoon system it is tight, both rear wheels are off the edges. I have other places where I carved 4 foot wide level trails from the slopes that now need to be 6 foot or more for the LS. Little BX just buzzes through the trees along the edge dragging a box blade.

 

[Henniker]

My recommendation would be a 30hp - 40-hp hydrostatic. I would add Kioti to the list. I'd take a look at these models first. The Kubota LX3310 is a small frame CUT with bigger tires. All the rest are mid frame CUTs. If you want to move up to 40hp+ large frame CUTs, you will pay more $$$, but have more capability.


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Kubota LX3310

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Kubota L3302 or L2902


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John Deere 3032e

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Your LX3310 looks just like my (older) B2710 made in early 90s. Bought used from dealer about 10 yrs ago.
Not 100% problem free, but no buyers remorse. 27-29 HP. HST. Loaded tires. Clears my driveway with a land-pride (used) blade.
Just bought a grapple to handle firewood. Has saved me countless heart-attacks and back surgeries.
Around here for "homeowner" tractors, Kubota and Deere seem to be big, but I think Yanmar may be making headway. Check out Messicks youtube reviews, and visit as many dealers as possible. If you're going to buy used, buy from a dealer who will back it up. Good luck!

 

[DK35vince]

The reason I stick with John Deere and Kubota has to do with how long you plan on owning it and not necessarily quality of manufacture. I have owned a number of 10-30 year old tractors that I have purchased used and broken for cash at near salvage prices and refurbished. I've done this a number of times over the years and after some hard experience I now only buy John Deere or Kubota for the primary reason that new parts are readily available in US warehouses and used parts are a lot more common. I can still get nearly every part new from Deere on my 20-year-old 5220 for instance.
If you're going to finance a new tractor and sell it or trade it in in 5 years this argument doesn't apply, but if you are purchasing a 10+ year-old tractor or you intend on keeping it more than 10 years part availability really becomes important

I can still get nearly every part from Kioti for my 21 year old DK 35 also.
I order online and they are at my door in a few days.
Just as easy to get parts for as my previous John Deere 850 while I owned it IMO.

 

[RalphVa]

Have you bought yet?

I've owned 3 JDs mainly because the JD dealer was so much closer than any Kubota dealer. Now, there are 3 Kubota dealers fairly nearby (such that they won't charge that $450 to transport mentioned); the JD dealer charged $120.

A 1 acre veggie garden is huge. I had a 20 row garden about 50 ft long rows, and grew so much that I gave away a lot.

1) How much horsepower do I need? A relative has told me I shouldn't go any smaller than 40hp. I don't see myself doing much in the way of dirt work, is 40hp more than I need?
For my 8.5 acres and bush hog, wood chipping and snow movement work and a tad of dirt movement with a box blade, an 18.5 hp machine like the first one I had is completely adequate. Cannot get an 18.5 hp in a Kubota B nor JD 2 series (need the extra height on our hilly property); so, 2 of the JDs have been 24.5 hp, and Kubota B2601 is 25.5.

My neighbor on 5 acres has a 45 hp JD. He bush hogs and maintains a gravel driveway and moves snow, all tasks that an 18.5 hp diesel would do fine. His big tractor's weight probably is better to hold it in place better on his gravel driveway. Mine is only about 400 ft or so, relatively flat and paved.

Only time I've ever needed more hp is when trying to remove stumps with the FEL. With more hp, I'd probably end up bending the FEL though.

2) I've been encouraged to primarily shop for John Deere or Kubota. I see a lot of LS, Mahindra, Yanmar, Kioti, etc. sitting in my neighbors fields. I don't mind paying more when the quality is superior, but for a consumer like me am I going to realize the benefits of the big two brands there? None of the engines (up to 25.5 hp) have the Tier 4 stuff on the exhaust, and Kubota does a MUCH better job of controlling emissions such that their idle speeds are not elevated like the current JD's. The B uses 30% less fuel than the JDs (JDs 50% more than the B, all of them). From my experience since January on the B, it is many many times better than JDs in so many areas. The main thing I don't like about the Kubota is the reverse treadle pedal. It has gotten easier to use now with near 70 hours on it. Also, there are 2 engine oil drain plugs on the Kubota. I went years ago using an oil extractor on everything. Cannot use it on one side of the Kubota engine.

One thing that happened on my first JD was the Ujoint off the engine blew apart at 9 years and 660 hours. The Kubota B has no such Ujoints. The HST is carefully lined up with the engine. Little sleeves combine the shaft with the engine and HST at each end.

Have no experience with the other tractor makes, but the Isuzu generator driver (about 20 hp, 12.5 kw generator) is a real gem. One of those mentioned uses Isuzu engines, maybe LS?

3) Any special considerations when purchasing used over new? I haven't decided which way to go here, will probably depend on "how much tractor" I end up deciding that I need.
With today's prices, you can get a new one for very little more than a used one.

4) HST vs gear drive? Definitely HST for your situation.

 

[ning]

Consider that your wife's gardening may have size constraints for the tractor.

I love my Branson 3520h - fantastically heavy and solid beast - but I've seen a number of instances when a really little tractor would be nice to have, and my tractor could only get the dirt so close and was useless for digging there (it's too big to get in there, or too heavy, etc).

I'm not saying to buy a small tractor... but consider that depending on what you're doing on those 6 acres, you very well may find yourself best off with a bigger tractor as well as a small (SCUT) tractor - and the smaller tractors like a B25 or L25 class may seem decent for all-around, they're likely to be too big for some things and considerably too small for others (they're pretty lightweight and not fantastic lifters either).

Personally, I'd go - and in fact I went - with a step up from there (basically kubota grand L 35 or equivalent, which is where my tractor's at). 35hp, 29 pto, heavy, strong lifter. Bigger frame is likely to have issues in the forest, smaller is just not going to cut it for too many tasks.

This way, when you realize that yes you do need a smaller tractor, it makes sense to get a BX class unit, pretty much zero overlap with your other tractor, so there's no reason not to have both

 

[Rod in Forfar]

So far the range of comments has been pretty informative, but I'll offer a contrarian approach from Eastern Ontario, if I may.

Buy a substantial and cheap older tractor with a loader. It will take care of the heavy stuff. Then select another tractor for all of the jobs that the first tractor was too bulky or too heavy to do. This summer I bought an old 25 hp CaseIH 255. Its hydraulic system is far superior to my more primitive, larger tractors, and it can turn on a dime with its short wheelbase and 4WD. Just don't plan to use high range, as it doesn't have the power, and the loader won't lift heavy loads like the TAFE 35DI. Even with a cab it is way handier than the 35 hp tractors, though.

The 21 hp Kubota B7510 HST gets the bulk of the hours on our 115 acre property. It mows 3 acres of lawn with a belly mower. I raise the front of the tractor by chain attached to our shop hoist when it's time to add or subtract the mower unit. At one point a few years ago I could make the switch in four minutes flat. The Kubota also runs the 4" chipper, drives the block splitter through the auxiliary hydraulic link, dumps the little trailer with a heavier load than any other tractor on the property, and takes its turn on the 4' bush hog under overhanging trees. It has run the 5' snowblower in a pinch, but at my age I prefer the comfort of a cab tractor for snow removal. It takes a real man to face a morning of blowing snow while operating a rear-mounted blower.

I keep a 1960 Massey Ferguson 35 (Perkins diesel) for very occasional jobs where a winch is an immediate necessity, primarily the moving of downed trees. In May a Derecho dumped six large maple trees around the property. The winch greatly reduced the risk associated with cleaning up these chaotic accident scenes. The Massey's 37 hp and the winch's 8000 lb of pull have proven capable with the heavy stuff. The tractor is also small enough to get into narrow spaces.

The 50 acres of hay crop goes to a neighbour with a large investment in equipment I don't need to make.

 

[hiddentacocatneddih]

Off the topic of the thread, but I think you're wrong about people "blindly" buying stuff. Most people look at all factors considered, and make a compromise. I disagree with JD's stance on right to repair, it hurts major agricultural users. But not being a major agricultural users, I was content to compromise and buy them based on other factors.

I've also never voted for a candidate I truly liked, presidential or otherwise, with the PA senate race being a royal cluster-eff this year. I guess I could chose not to vote, but instead I compromise.

You can hate Apple, I have no love for them, but they make a hell of a phone. No need to subject myself to inferior product, based on how I feel about the company producing it. The same goes for tractors.

You must think highly of the general population.

Most people on here is an extremely minuscule sample of the population and is already filtered out

 

[divyakfm]

A cab was mentioned a few times but not stressed for winter snow chores. Open station tractors are trying in snow removal. In light of this, is your driveway gravel or paved? Paved then a blade, plow or blower will work fine with your heated cab. Gravel and using a blade/plow, then think of the spring time cleanup off your lawn. Using a blower/blade/plow on the first snow is important. Set the implement 1" above the gravel and leave that little bit of snow to bind the gravel. Driving on this will also help. Then the next snows are easier to clean. You can control where the discarded snow goes with a blower and avoid drifts, narrowing drivewave, unsightly piles...

In what ever tractor you choose, replacement parts and service are very important. For my 1972 JD 3020D almost all parts are still available and we can make our own repairs.