Refurbishing my Z145 135

[The kid]

You are not restoring the tractor so you can do whatever you want.

I get tired of those that want to criticize the smallest of things. I think sometimes people get mad when you don't do something their way. I think they get jealous when you show an easier way of doing things. :laughing: . On my fuel line, I replaced it with a metal line just show some of these know to all want to be's that I know what I'm doing. I did a lot of things out of the norm on my tractor to aid in future repairs if needed. The way I did my front end sheet metal, I was able to easily remove it in one piece. Some may call it SCABBING. I call it, being innovative. As for my tractor, you are right. I can do whatever I want. I could paint it John Deer green.. Hmm. nahh. . -kid

 

[The kid]

Component paint colors

There has been numerous discussions on what colors certain parts of the tractor should be or not. For me it's what I think looks the best and closest to original.

I've seen the starter solenoid and started painted the same color as the body of a tractor. Even the spark plug wires. I decided that's not my taste.

I went back and painted my starter, solenoid and distributor base. I didn't feel the need to cover everything with paint. Nothing wrong with that if that's what you want. But I wanted some parts to stand out. Just like a auto engine. Here's a photo of my starter and it's paint colors.

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The alternator will stay the factory color. The manifold was painted with heat paint. I may put some heat paint on the exhaust down pipe to the muffler. I haven't decided yet.

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I've ordered a replacement Continental Z145 engine serial number tag to replace my beat up painted over one. Here I show a printed copy of where it will go. I'll have the new tag engraved and press in new rivets.

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When I first had the fuel tank off, I noticed it had a solder patch on the bottom. After using the tractor this weekend I kept smelling gas in the basement. It seems the solder weld is failing. I decided and ordered a new tank instead of patching that one again. I've got to drain eight gallons out of the tank now.

When I do it, I'll show you a neat tool I made to drain it. :tractor: -robert

 

[murphy1244]

Kid, Why do you send me a PM then turn yours off? I never received or know about getting a Big Deans cd, I talked to Massey about it but it was a no-go. Don't play kid games with me,I'm not part of your rip with Massey. I would of liked to PM you this instead but no you turned yours off.

 

[The kid]

Kid, Why do you send me a PM then turn yours off? I never received or know about getting a Big Deans cd, I talked to Massey about it but it was a no-go. Don't play kid games with me,I'm not part of your rip with Massey. I would of liked to PM you this instead but no you turned yours off.

No games Murph, but I can read. Good day.

 

[murphy1244]

No games Murph, but I can read. Good day.

Explain, Read what? I asked him and he said NO. Quit whinening

 

[The kid]

Fuel Tank Drain Tool

I mentioned earlier I was replacing my fuel tank. Instead of patching the patch I decided to go ahead and replace the tank. When I made the new fuel line I had a five foot piece of line left over. I bent a piece and mounted it just to use to drain the tank. It worked great.

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[The kid]

New Continental Engine tag

I got my new tag today. Kinda pricey to have two made. Copyright laws preventing me from making more. I have a metal stamp set I'll add the original numbers to it. I can get the original rivets at Stienertractor.com for $.25 each. I've got the two upper rivets drilled out, but I'm going to have to remove the solenoid and distributor to get the the two lower rivets to drill out. This is kind of icing on the cake. Maybe the next owner will appreciate it. -kid

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[murphy1244]

Any progress on the tractor?

 

[vegaome]

Howdy Robert,

I was curious how your sheet metal turned out? Did you weld it all together so you can tip it forward? Have a good day.

v/r

Mike

 

[The kid]

Howdy Robert,

I was curious how your sheet metal turned out? Did you weld it all together so you can tip it forward? Have a good day.

v/r

Mike

Hi Mike. Yes. I welded all the front pieces together and it worked out great. The vertical side pieces and the horizontal side pieces are both bolted on. I decided not to put a circular mount and keep the slots. I can loosen those front lower bolts and still hinge all of the sheetmetal forward.

Right now I've got three things I'm doing. I'm replacing the serial plate on the engine block and replacing the fuel tank. The fuel tank was patched over a patch and decided to just get a new one. The sediment cut off would not screw into the new tank fitting. It seems the old tank had a brass outlet fitting and had been die cut to except a standard 3/8" thread. So guess what. The new tank will have to be done the same way.

I've got the tap and a new cut off. Waiting for the paint to cure. Today is going to warm up, so I'll put the tank in the sun and it may be ready to install tomorrow. I'm going today to pickup my rivets I ordered for the serial plate. Steiner wanted $.25 each and I bought a 100 for $5.84. They are a nail in rivet like the original.

I had the tractor out and made a few laps around in the driveway, a week or two ago when I discovered the bottom of the fuel tank was wet with gas. (patch).

Still looking for that cloud over my head. I noticed the tractor hesitating a little bit when accelerating. So a few days ago I knew I had to remove the distributor to get to one of the serial plate holes I was needing to drill out. I marked the distributor to make it easier to reinstall. I removed the distributor and put it in a vise and started taking it apart.

What I found shocked and amazed me. This type of distributor is a 1112-643 which says it's for a Special. I have a Deluxe. It has twin weights on each side.

They where all frozen from the springs failing and jamming into the distributor wall. The springs had cut three nice groves into the inside wall. I dumped out about a teaspoon on metal shavings from the distributor wall. I cleaned everything up and the distributor shaft had no side play so basically no damage was done except for the groves. I ordered some springs from Summitt Racing out of Knoxville,TN.

It seems they are sending me three sets. Light, Medium and Strong. The specs shows a power curve in degrees and the motor accelerates. The only way to check this is to accurately read the RPM's while using a strobe light to see the visible timing marks in the peep hole.

I've also ordered a Photo Digital Laser Tachometer to check my tachdrive and to check the power curve to use the correct set of springs. AGCO not longer sells those springs so don't ask. Delco-Remy distributors are still supported in the automotive industry. So there is your source. I found a kit with three sets of springs on ebay for around seven dollars. Cheap enough. I could probably go to NAPA or Autozone and get some springs but finding the right tension is the key. Grass cutting time it quickly approaching and need to get the tractor out of the garage to get the lawn mower out.. As Paul Harvey used to say.

"Now you know the rest of the story" -kid