Releasing 3 point hitch ?

[bloody_peasant]

Wow, thanks everyone, just got my new tractor this weekend and as a rookie was having the same problems as bcarwell was. On Friday I spent nearly an hour trying to get the hog off. After reading this and nursing all of the nicks and scrapes on my hands, I went back on Sunday and was able to attach and unattach the hog and a blade maybe in a half hour total.

The 2x4 under the hog really helped. Lot easier sliding that guy around when its not digging into the ground. Also setting the arms at the right height was key, as a newb I was trying at first to do it with them all they way down. After I lifted them to about level just before it started to lift the front of the hog they came right off.

I also found it easier if I unhooked the upper lift arms (the upright ones) as this increased the mobility of the lower lift arms. Not sure if that's normal or even an ok practice or not though? Any comments?

 

[rickmacheske]

Well...I did get Pat's easy change system. In my experience it's the best purchase I've made for the tractor. It now takes me about 30 seconds to remove an attachment and about 1 minute to put one on once I've backed into the right location. I haven't found anything that will not fit properly. I did find out that I needed to bolt the washers on for attachements with just pins (no clevis) connection like the bush hog or spreader.

 

[3RRL]

Wow, thanks everyone, just got my new tractor this weekend and as a rookie was having the same problems as bcarwell was. On Friday I spent nearly an hour trying to get the hog off. After reading this and nursing all of the nicks and scrapes on my hands, I went back on Sunday and was able to attach and unattach the hog and a blade maybe in a half hour total.

You will definitely benefit from Pat's EZ change system. Click here:http://www.greenwellmfg.com/products.htm
There are similar systems available on eBay that you could save a few bucks, but look carefully to get the ones that are identical to Pat's.
His system IMO is more versitile than some of the others, as it allows use on implements with narrow or wide lift lift pins, whereas some of the others restrict usage to one width.
In my case, I literally remove or attach my boxblade in 1 minute. Back up to it and lift, get out and connect the top link. I may need to attach hydraulics or a PTO shaft in addition. Sure beats wrestling with those side lift arms.

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[Soundguy]

I also found it easier if I unhooked the upper lift arms (the upright ones) as this increased the mobility of the lower lift arms. Not sure if that's normal or even an ok practice or not though? Any comments?

Most don't go that far. The reason it was easier for you, is that the upper lift arms are coupled.. thus that couples the lower lift arms so that they lift at the same height.. which may cause a problem trying to mount a mower that is even 1" different in height from right to left side .. ( tire pressure can even make a difference.. as well as tire wear.

What most do is hitch up the non adjustable side,, then use the adjustable lift link to make up the difference.. hitch the arm.. lift the implement.. then relevel with the leveling adjustment with no load on the implement.

Soundguy

 

[bloody_peasant]

Thanks Soundguy, I was wondering about that because my manual recommends I attach the left side first and then use the leveling crank to attach the other side, but for the life of me, I can't find it. So I assume that my arms really are not coupled, but have some sort of uncoupled leveling mechanism that I have yet to figure out.

I have a MF 1010, where is this mysterious crank

Although honestly removing and reattaching the upper arms is really quick and fast, maybe adding an extra minute or two to my attachment time.

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks Soundguy, I was wondering about that because my manual recommends I attach the left side first and then use the leveling crank to attach the other side, but for the life of me, I can't find it. So I assume that my arms really are not coupled, but have some sort of uncoupled leveling mechanism that I have yet to figure out.

I have a MF 1010, where is this mysterious crank

Although honestly removing and reattaching the upper arms is really quick and fast, maybe adding an extra minute or two to my attachment time.

I virtually guarantee you that your upper lift arms are solidly attached and thus coupled the the 3pt rockshaft that sets inside your 3pt top cover.. the upper lift arms are connected to t he lower lift arms with lift links. Traditionally, one of the lift links is adjustable, and will have a small hand crank on it, so that you can lower or raise one side of the 3pt.

I sopose that someone may have just installed solid lift links.. or your tractor 's adjustable lift link may be optional.

Here is what one should look like:

http://www.tractorshed.com/gallery/pieces/v1472.jpg

This is a standard ford/ferguson adjustable lift link. this runs up/down, and connects the lower lift arm ( long one that the implement hooks to,).. tot he small one under / behind your seat.

Soundguy

 

[bloody_peasant]

Thanks soundguy, let me see if I got the terminology correct. See the attached pic.

The short arms coming out horizontally just behind the seat are the <b>upper lift arms</b>. A

The longer arms coming out horizontally that attachments are hooked to are the <b>lower lift arms</b>

Which of these two sets of arms are actually attached to the hydraulics, the lower or the upper?

The links connecting these two and running vertically are the <b>lift links</b>. As you say one of these normally has a crank to adjust the level of the lower lift arms. I'll have to check again tonight, but I'm pretty sure there was no crank although the manual references it. Maybe a previous owner did install a solid one. I also don't see any crank on this pic I found on the web, so maybe it was an option or I'm misreading the manual.

You guys are a great help because there is hardly anything else out there on the web of any use on this subject.

Here's another question from a total newb. How do you run PTO driven stationary type devices like chippers/shredders, stump grinders, etc. with a clutch PTO? Or can you?

 

[Soundguy]

Thanks soundguy, let me see if I got the terminology correct. See the attached pic.

The short arms coming out horizontally just behind the seat are the <b>upper lift arms</b>. A

The longer arms coming out horizontally that attachments are hooked to are the <b>lower lift arms</b>

Which of these two sets of arms are actually attached to the hydraulics, the lower or the upper?

The links connecting these two and running vertically are the <b>lift links</b>. As you say one of these normally has a crank to adjust the level of the lower lift arms. I'll have to check again tonight, but I'm pretty sure there was no crank although the manual references it. Maybe a previous owner did install a solid one. I also don't see any crank on this pic I found on the web, so maybe it was an option or I'm misreading the manual.

You guys are a great help because there is hardly anything else out there on the web of any use on this subject.

Here's another question from a total newb. How do you run PTO driven stationary type devices like chippers/shredders, stump grinders, etc. with a clutch PTO? Or can you?

Lets see.. i'll try to answer in order..

Yes.. the short arms are the upper lift arms.. the long arms are the lower lift arms.. the links connecting them are the lift links.

The short arms under your seat are coupled to a hyd cylinder under your seat.. when you raise the lift, the cyl extends, and pushes the lower arms up,a s they are mounted on a rocking shaft that is pushed by the hyd cylinder. Not.. you can manually lift the arms up.. they are not stiffly coupled to the hyd cyl.. though each arem is connected tot he rockshaft.. so both arms lift or fall together.

Now.. the proof is in your pic. it's plainly visible that your right lift link arm is the adjustable one... it's an assembly of 4 parts.. not a solid link like the left arm.. There is a female threaded collar.. it has a grease fitting on it. On the bottom, there is a yoke with male threads that screws in the bottom of the collar.. this yoke hooks to the lower lift arms. Now, on top of the collar is a ball end that connects to the upper lift arm.. it also has male threads and is screwed into the threaded collar. there is a locking nut on top between the ball end and the threaded collar.. it functions like a jamb nut. Looks like you can loosen the jamb nut with a big wrench, and then turn the threaded collar to shorten or elongate it. I can't tell from the pic.. but it may have flats on it so you can use a wrench to turn it.. or if it is cast round.. you will need a pipe wrench to turn it. Some designes have a holt to stick a screwdriver or rod thru to held you turn it.. it doesn't appear that yours does.. however.. at the end with the jamb nut.. it looks like the collar has flats for a wrench.

No.. for stationary pto devices.. What specifically did you want to know? Your tractor either has a single stage clutch, dual stage clutch, or independent pto. In the case of a single or dual stage clutch, you deptress the clutch fuilly.. engage pto, and then let clutch out .. have rpms' low to prevent shock damage to tractor or implement.. then throttle tractor up to pto speed. In the case of an independent pto.. throttle down.. and feather engage the pto, and then bring engine up to speed.. reverse of that to disengage pto. is that what you were asking?

Soundguy

 

[bloody_peasant]

soundguy,

Not.. you can manually lift the arms up.. they are not stiffly coupled to the hyd cyl.. though each arem is connected tot he rockshaft.. so both arms lift or fall together.

Yes that is true, I can lift (or let fall) the two arms and they do move together as you described.

Ahh so instead of a nice easy "crank" I have to fangle with a wrench and a quasi "lock nut". So for attaching and unattaching its probably easier for me to unattach the lift links like I have been instead of messing with the leveling mechanism. Yep I think it is a hex type nut, not round, nor does it have a hole for a screw driver. I'll have to check tonight to make sure. Can I shorten or lengthen this link to create a tilt for my rear blade, so I can for instance grade a ditch?

I think I may have figured out my answer to the stationary pto devices. Will the PTO still turn when the tractor is in neutral? I think I was having a "duh" moment and was wondering how do you operate these things when the tractor is moving LOL. As for the type, I'm going to have to recheck my manual again, I seem to recall reading the PTO could be engaged while in gear, but so far I have always been engaging it with the clutch depressed (and the RPMs down).

Thanks again,

 

[daTeacha]

Peasant -- The adjustable link on some tractors has a pin through it much like a top link has. My old Kubota had a stiff wire loop that unfolded and worked as a lever to move the tubular center section. The whole thing was basically a turnbuckle. If yours has flats, there is probably a wrench that came with tractor when new to fit it. Look in your toolbox and it might be there. Depending on the tractor, you might have a bit of a time finding the toolbox. When I first got my Kubota, it was so covered with crud that I didn't know it was there hiding below the battery and next to my left foot. When I found it, it contained a couple of Kubota wrenches, lots of old insulation, and a dead family of mice. I always kept my chainsaw scwrench in it.

PTOs come in variety of configurations -- independent, live, transmission driven, etc. I don't know what yours is. Your tractor may have some safety devices that keep thing from running when you get off the seat unless you go through a series of deliberate actions. Mine will let me run the rear PTO when not in the seat only if I set the parking brake and put the HST range selector in neutral. If I don't do those two things, the engine dies about 2 seconds after I get up. It will not let the mid PTO run unless someone is in the seat, probably to keep operators feet firmly attached to their legs when using a mid mounted mower.