Repower or Sell PT-425...?

[pka45]

Boy that starter is a bugger to get off! Had to make a slight modification…

 

[sandman2234]

Old boss had a rear wheel drive Key push mower he loved, just hated pull starting it. He found an old Cub Cadet starter/generator, removed the pull start housing and mounted an 8"(?) pulley to the flywheel, mounted the starter/gen, added a battery with a few wires, and it started like a champ! The battery in the rear between the tall wheels finally ate the 1/4" aluminum deck out after 10 years. Too much voltage was over charging it, or it was spilling acid since it wasn't a sealed one. Since he owned a machine shop, modifications like these weren't out of the question.
David from jax

 

[pka45]

Well, took the starter to a battery shop and they tested it - said it tested good! Now I’m stumped. Battery tested good, and starting had just gotten weaker and weaker over a matter of weeks until it finally won’t even roll over. Any other ideas?

 

[m5040]

Bad electrical connection. Put it all back together and as you do, clean all connections until bright (then protect with film of oil or grease or a product like Copper Shield).
Then report back if it isn't normal.

 

[ponytug]

It is nice to get some good news.

+1 on @m5040's advice. I would also check all of the crimps as they can wear out if they are subject to vibration and are unsupported. Don't forget the battery terminals and ground, and the battery itself. Your starter is the highest demand on the system, and will show up any weakness first.

All the best,

Peter

 

[Randy Gann]

2nd on possible bad electrical connection. Especially check your ground. It could be making contact but not good enough to carry sufficient amperage to turn the starter.

 

[sandman2234]

Valve adjustment was what was wrong when we thought it was the starter on our riding mower.
David from jax

 

[airbiscuit]

I had a car with a similar problem. I cleaned the terminals and cable ends - still no good. Took it to the shop. Mechanic said it had a replacement end on the cable but no di-electric grease. It looked good, but wasn't. New cable end and di-electric grease, and good to go.

Is the starter in a location where you can put jumper cables to it directly to see how fast it spins the motor?

 

[pka45]

Thanks all - turned out to be the terminals after all.

Sure was a good practice run to learn how to replace the starter! And how I have the “starter access hole” all ready to go…

 

[the old grind]

I found out why the aux battery in the Chevy wasn't staying charged. I'll trim back another inch at both ends, solder on 4 new eyes, and maybe wire in that NOCO isolator while I'm under the hood. (Aint much room there) For weak starting I might check battery ground to frame before looking at batt/cable connections.

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Valve adjustment was what was wrong when we thought it was the starter on our riding mower.

Lash & timing are prime suspects when I hear popping thru a carburetor. btw, a favorite SGE starting issue whas a guy who'd garnered an older but whole front-deck ZTR for $0.00. He'd gone over mechanicals and cleaned it up but while the starter spun strongly it didn't engage so Joe invited me to check it out. Right away I switched the two black battery cables and it started right up.