ROPS Customization

   / ROPS Customization #1  

sunnyside360

Veteran Member
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
1,565
Location
Central PA
Tractor
JD 3720, JD 4320, JD 835R, Kubota M4D-071, Kubota ZD1511
The ROPS on my tractor must be folded down to enter/exit my garage. I dread the day when either my wife, son-in-law, or I forget to fold the ROPS prior to entering the garage. I've seen where others here on TBN have damaged their garage after forgetting to fold the ROPS and I know it could happen to mine as well. I've been thinking about having a seven inch piece cut out of the middle of each side of the ROPS -- then welded.
Just looking to see anyone has done this or have any other ideas. Any and all thoughts are appreciated. Thanks, Sunnyside
 
   / ROPS Customization #2  
That ought to work if you have a seven inch section of your head removed to accomodate the clearance issues that will arise from the shorter ROPS. ;)

OK, that's a bit of a smartA answer, but the manufacturers would make them shorter if it were safe to do so, since they would cost less to build.
 
   / ROPS Customization
  • Thread Starter
#3  
SnowRidge said:
That ought to work if you have a seven inch section of your head removed to accomodate the clearance issues that will arise from the shorter ROPS. ;)

OK, that's a bit of a smartA answer, but the manufacturers would make them shorter if it were safe to do so, since they would cost less to build.

The top of the ROPS on the tractor (JD 4320) is way-way higher than anyone sitting on the seat. In fact, it almost looks ridiculously high. I would not consider shortening the ROPS if it circumvented the safety value.
 
   / ROPS Customization #4  
I've been considering the same thing, On my DK35 the ROPS is at least 12 inches over my head and about 3" to tall to get in the barn. I've wondered about the strength and was considering a tube inside the tube to help strengthen it.
 
   / ROPS Customization #5  
Tie a string to the top of the ROPS and take it to the highest point of the front end. Have your tallest operator sit in the seat and see how much clearance their is between the string and his/her head. That is your best case scenario. It goes down hill from there.

Now have the operator position his/her body forward and up against the seat belt until the clearance is at a minimum. Next, take a look at the front of the tractor and imagine how much it might get crushed in a roll over. Now mentally move that string down to meet that crush point, operator still leaning forward and straining up. Next, imagine a hump or other protrusion on the ground that the tractor might roll onto. Move the string down to accommodate that, too. Do you still have any clearance between the operator's head and the string?
 
   / ROPS Customization #6  
Several things to consider.
A line drawn from the top of the ROPS to the front of the tractor forms the protection area. This line needs to be several inches above your head for good protection. In general since ROPS are in back of the head and the hood is lower this means the ROPS will have to be significantly higher to protect the driver.

Working on the assumption that the ROPS is mild steel and not ChromeMoly. Welding on a ROPS requires several things. Correct materials and welding techniques. Proper gusseting to bring back the strength lost in welding. Any modification would also let the manufacturer off the hook on liability if that matters to you?

You might use this opportunity to lobby for a new barn with a proper door for your tractor and implements.:D
 
   / ROPS Customization
  • Thread Starter
#7  
rpoage said:
You might use this opportunity to lobby for a new barn with a proper door for your tractor and implements.:D

This is undoubtedly the best solution. However, the garage/barn is only 3 years old. I built it with two 7-1/2 X 10 ft, and one 8-1/2 X 10 ft overhead doors. All three doors should have been 8-1/2 X 10 ft. I currently use the larger door for a much bigger cab tractor which just barely fits.
Hence, I'm just exploring the idea of shortening the ROPS on the JD 4320.
 
   / ROPS Customization #8  
sunnyside360 said:
I've been thinking about having a seven inch piece cut out of the middle of each side of the ROPS -- then welded.

That's what I did, and I am much happier. My CK30 has a ROPS that is
super-tall also. I find that many tractor owners with this clearance
problem just leave their ROPS folded. Where is the safety in THAT?

That said, I did use sleeves inside my 2x3 tubing and this part of my
new ROPS is the strongest. I had to tweak my new vertical sections a bit
in my 20T press and I could not bend them.
 
   / ROPS Customization #9  
If you roll the tractor onto its side the height of the ROPS will prevent it rolling all the way over ontop of you even if you are on a slope.
If you cut out a section and roll it on a slope it might keep on rolling over and roll down the hill.
They dont make them so tall for the fun of it.

I'd cut a section out though, but no-one but me relies on it for their safety, whereas you have the safety of others to think about.
 
   / ROPS Customization #10  
First question. How flat is your land? I have no need of a ROPS since I have rolling hills. In 34 years I have never been anywhere close to tipping. For me, I would just leave it down. My 1910 does not even have a ROPS.

If you need the ROPS, now that's different of course.
 
 
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