Box Scraper Rotary Cutter & Box Blade Questions

[Soundguy]

I have seen 9' hogs.. there is one for sale int he fl/ga edition of the heavy equipment trader magazine.

For a 3930.. though,.. I'm guessing 8' is a better match for power.

For no real dirt moving jobs.. an 8' grader blade may be best for road maintenance.

I'd stick to a rough cut mower... You can make them cut almost as good as a finish mower by sharpening.. however.. the opposite is not tru of a finishmower.. if the brush gets heavy or stemmy.. you will really be abusing the finish mower.

Soundguy

 

[volunteer]

Actually on the stability thing, the tractor won't tip until it's CG is outside the box formed by the contact patch of all 4 tires. So setting any pair out farther will slightly extend your tilt limits.

When CFO and I first saw property we both knew we had found our new place. The view from the hill, the trees lining the county gravel road, everything was spectacular. Only after purchased did I begin to feel a slight puckering when I considered mowing/bushogging hill. As Barney Fife once stated, "I had a "compelsion" to make that tractor as sticky as possible on that hill.

 

[volunteer]

It depends on the type of soil you have there in TN. From the info you have given you could run a six footer on either one of the implements and be conservative. There are things that make a lot of difference such as the weight of the rotary cutter. Some are much heavier than others. The soil if it is clay or sandy means you could not pull as much with one as the other. SO, I would say a general estimate would be six on each of them and you might get by with more width. I know that isn't to great of an answer. But, there are variables that one has to take into account. You might pull an seven foot mower or a longer box blade depending on the make and so on. I know that tractor will pull a seven foot mower, was just thinking of the brand and weight. Same with the box blade. Hope this helps some.

Soil is rather rich loam on the bottom flat land and the guys doing the dozer work were really surprised at the lack of rock they encountered on putting driveway in as well as scrapping off the building site. Today the footings/safe room, etc is being dug so I guess I'll find ou that the top of the hill has a bit more rock. The water/utility lines that run down the utility easement on other side of road required rock saw but once brought over to our property, lines were dug with ditch witch, no problems.

As far as width, every post seems to say that bush hog or finish mower should be wider than outside width of rear tires. That's an eight foot at minimum. I don't mind lapping over with a smaller size but getting close to fence line, trees on perimeter, as well as trees on hill would leave a lot of extra weedeater work.

 

[volunteer]

I have seen 9' hogs.. there is one for sale int he fl/ga edition of the heavy equipment trader magazine.

For a 3930.. though,.. I'm guessing 8' is a better match for power.

For no real dirt moving jobs.. an 8' grader blade may be best for road maintenance.

I'd stick to a rough cut mower... You can make them cut almost as good as a finish mower by sharpening.. however.. the opposite is not tru of a finishmower.. if the brush gets heavy or stemmy.. you will really be abusing the finish mower.

Soundguy

After reading these posts and reviewing others, I might be leaning to your directions. While a finish mower would leave a cleaner cut, I might be sorry and end up with a lot of repairs for hitting those hidden rocks.

Thanks for the grader blade tip, I have read earlier posts on pros/cons of BB v. GB. Please tell me why you prefer the grader blade.

BTW, thanks for response!

 

[wushaw]

For your road you may want to also consider something like this.
Grademaster Blade Tractor 3 Point Hitch Scraper

 

[TrippleT]

In the mulititude of counselors there is safety. Soundguy may well be correct.
Somehow, I was under the impression that the tractor was about 50 horse or something close. But then reread that it had FWD to so that is almost like adding ten horses. So you can go larger than I had suggested. I hope all works out well for you.

 

[volunteer]

For your road you may want to also consider something like this.
Grademaster Blade Tractor 3 Point Hitch Scraper

Went to website and viewed demo. Interesting in that it says it deposits finer materials on bottom and places coarser material on top. Called and was put on old so I will call them back later. Thanks.

 

[volunteer]

In the mulititude of counselors there is safety. Soundguy may well be correct.
Somehow, I was under the impression that the tractor was about 50 horse or something close. But then reread that it had FWD to so that is almost like adding ten horses. So you can go larger than I had suggested. I hope all works out well for you.

As measured by dealer, tractor with extended Ag tires measures approx 94". Glad to hear that 4x4 is like additional 10 hp.

If everything I have read is true I would need a bushhog/RFM wider than 94". I saw on the Rhino website that they offer an "offset" option that would shift the cutter by 12" either to left or right.

Three considerations: 1. This would allow a 7' cutter (7 x 12 = 84 inches) to go out beyond one side of either tire. 2. Another consideration is that I do not want to get too large an implement that requires a second purchase. 3. That offset option is $680.00 - that's a little steeper than my hill.

 

[greg_g]

Now you're getting way too complicated, and foolish if you believe that 10hp bit. I'm going to bow out now, because I believe your decision to widen the track to operate on hillsides you've never even driven on yet, has compromised the ability to match implements to horsepower.

//greg//

 

[schmism]

for driveway maintance a rear blade is better suited.

a 6' version that you can offset (swing right and left) like a 35 series would work well as you can swing to one side to cover outside the track on oneside.....

the larger 8' blades are liekly going to do that anyway, just they get REALLY expensive.