Rust questions
- Thread starter TheMan419
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MossRoad
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It's gonna get scraped up and dirty anyway. I'd do like the others that say just sand or wire wheel the loose stuff off, and hit it with the right color of rustoleum or some other brand of rust paint.
If you really want to get the whole thing clean one time, take it apart and power wash it. Take some 2X12's and build a box big enough to hold the parts. Line it with heavy plastic. Put the parts in setting on some wood blocks to keep them off the bottom.
Fill it with water and add some washing SODA (not powder). About 2-3 pounds should do it.
Attach a wire to each of the parts and connect that to the negative lead on a heavy duty battery charger or DC arc welder.
Put a piece of angle iron in each corner of the pond and connect those to the positive lead of the charger/welder.
Turn it on and wait about 5-10 minutes. You'll see bubbles start to form on the parts. The rust will leave the parts and attach to the sacrificial anodes (the angle irons). Let it go overnight and check it the next day.
Turn off the power and unplug it! Pull a part. You should see a nice, black part. Dry it off, clean it up lightly with a wheel, and paint it.
Do this outside, by the way. The little bubbles are hydrogen gas and it can explode!
Have fun! :thumbsup:
If you really want to get the whole thing clean one time, take it apart and power wash it. Take some 2X12's and build a box big enough to hold the parts. Line it with heavy plastic. Put the parts in setting on some wood blocks to keep them off the bottom.
Fill it with water and add some washing SODA (not powder). About 2-3 pounds should do it.
Attach a wire to each of the parts and connect that to the negative lead on a heavy duty battery charger or DC arc welder.
Put a piece of angle iron in each corner of the pond and connect those to the positive lead of the charger/welder.
Turn it on and wait about 5-10 minutes. You'll see bubbles start to form on the parts. The rust will leave the parts and attach to the sacrificial anodes (the angle irons). Let it go overnight and check it the next day.
Turn off the power and unplug it! Pull a part. You should see a nice, black part. Dry it off, clean it up lightly with a wheel, and paint it.
Do this outside, by the way. The little bubbles are hydrogen gas and it can explode!
Have fun! :thumbsup:
Something they may help answer some of your rust questions is this guide on rust prevention. I use this guide whenever I encounter problems with rust.
Industrial Toys
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If your preperation isn't that good, you might want to paint it with a brush. Spraying shows every imperfection.
RalphVa
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Stuff like Rustoleum's Rust Reformer have been around for maybe 30 years from various outfits and now Rustoleum. It converts the rust (Fe2O3), iron oxide, to iron sulfide: e.g. from orangish to black. Then just paint over it. I'd use a Rustoleum yellow, if that's what you want. I once applied it to a Gravely snow plow that was mostly just shiny metal with a bit of rust. Never had any more rust.
Just brush off the worst of the rust with a steel wire brush and apply.
Ralph
Just brush off the worst of the rust with a steel wire brush and apply.
Ralph
Plain and simple rust converters or rust paints do not work inless you prep the area verry verry well. We are talking sand blast it clean. At this point your better off useing a 2 part epoxy primer.
I have got to the point where i oil my rusty vehicle frames and totaly gave up on paints. I have never seen a oily vehicle rust.
I have got to the point where i oil my rusty vehicle frames and totaly gave up on paints. I have never seen a oily vehicle rust.
PILOON
Super Star Member
Agree!
Since I like to keep my vehicles for 8-10 years I always have them spray oiled every couple of years.
Other than occasional drips they stand up well even in our over salted road climate here in Quebec.