Satoh S630D Runs Away!

   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#11  
Thanks Gale, sounds like a toss up, maybe MMO in the crank case and SeaFoam through the fuel system? We'll see what we're dealing with for sure to make a game plan. Just shut down for the night. Finally got the other project running and moved out. Decided to clean up the garage before moving her in place. Did y'all know that it's an EXTREMELY hard task moving it with two shot front tires? I thought i wouldn't make it there in time before it starting getting to hot. I was tempted to just cut the darn things off to ride on the rims!
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   / Satoh S630D Runs Away! #12  
Hey that is a nice looking tractor from that shot.
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Yeah, I forgot to mention that I cleaned her up a bit. I don't like working anything caked in gunk and grease. Quick question, I noticed that i'm missing some bolts on both sides of the frame where it mounts on the engine block. Looks like they came loose and a couple came out and one was sheared. So I only have one of three bolts holding each side. :shocked: Would it be okay to have them drilled, tapped, and helicoiled in the cast iron block?
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#14  
Well we're a little slow here at the shop so starting doing some research. I asked a buddy who has a fab shop next door about the bolts. He would just drill and tap them in the next size up, no point in using helicoils. Got a shop manual on order from Bill today for a very reasonable price. He had a few tips but he's inclined to say that the injection pump is seizing from sitting. Worse case is it will have to be rebuilt. If I can't find a trust worthy dealer here, Bill said they can do it if I ship up to him. I was shocked how expensive the head gaskets are, I found one from an online parts store for $65 shipped for the ke130 specifically. Most other tractor part places want $150 not including shipping! Unless
their is a significant difference in quality, fit, or something I would understand but still. Anyway, I'll have the house to myself for awhile tonight, so i'm pretty anxious to start digging in but I'm scared of what I'll find. Will post some pics tonight! Does anyone know a rule of thumb on how much clearance there should be between the piston and cylinder? What to check the wear and tear while i'm that deep in. If not then I'll wait til the book gets in to see if it has the specs.
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Well it was exactly what I didn't want it to be but it is what it is.

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Looks like its not just a head gasket. Rings are toasted. At first I couldn't see anything on the head gasket, then I could see a very tight path that went literally through the middle of the gasket to the front left water jacket. It was interesting to see that it left the top and bottom of the gasket intact. It also looks like the PO also caught on to it being a head gasket issue. Found lots of gunk like someone poured liquid glass or something in the coolant. Lots of corrosion set in and it did a number on the thermostat housing. No wonder it may have had a sticking valve! Lot's of carbon build up and a little rust forming up top on the valve train. Won't know how bad shape the bores are until I get my book for numbers. Roughly it has about 0.080" of space between the piston and wall using the rule of thumb with a feeler gauge. But I'll check it with a bore gauge for final numbers. Hope the pics aren't to big...
 

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   / Satoh S630D Runs Away! #16  
Bet they did not change the oil every year and antifreeze every two years.

I will be interested to know if the rings are compressed and frozen in place by carbon build up. Was there any ring grove. If not it may be mainly a ring issue.

Bet the inside of the engine will look cleaner soon. :)
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#17  
Updated the head gasket pic with a better explanation. Bores are clean, no scuffs or scoring, no signs of heat stress. I can physically move the pistons around. Looks like the cause as you mentioned was negligence on the oil changes. Took a look again and the fact the cylinder 2 is still firing in the shape it's in, I may be able to get away with some quick honing, rings and bearings if needed while their off. I don't expect to run the tractor thousands of hours a year. It took me at least three years to accumulate 280 hours on my 790 JD using it fairly often until the last year. This engine is really disgusting inside all over. :yuck: I can tell it's been apart once before, they guy did say they did do rings way back when supposedly.
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#18  
Sorry guys, basically it's time to play the waiting game. Got the shop book on the way, and got a cylinder bore gauge ordered, need to get a battery for my caliper. These next few days are going to be long at the shop, so no time to play. Figured this will be a good time to start letting all the parts start soaking in the washer while we wait. I'm going to go experiment using seafoam in my parts washer. I've been using diesel as a solvent because it's cheap, it works, and it's easy to recycle. So I figure why not get a fresh 5 gallons tomorrow and mix in a full dose of seafoam and see what happens? I'll keep a close eye on all the parts during this time. It seems that Seafoam is a little more aggressive than MMO. I think MMO would work great for long term engine oil maintenance treatment but, seafoam looks to work a bit more aggressively and quicker. Guess is a good engine flushing method. Although they claim you can leave seafoam in the oil until the next change interval as the same with MMO if you follow the directions. Will keep y'all posted! :)
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#19  
Just a quick update. Got the bottom end opened up this evening. A bit of sludge as expected. The bad cylinder, piston, lower rod bearing, and journal looked good and clean. The other was overall the same but the lower rod bearing looked like it lost oil pressure at some point. Journal looked okay, just barely feel any groves, still as shiny as the other. The bearing however, looks like it got scorched and got chewed into a bit. I'm wondering if something may have plugged the oil passage. I tried blowing compressed air through them but didn't seem like it was going anywhere. Will have to investigate some more. Pics coming soon!
 
   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#20  
Sorry I haven't had time to post anything. Things are getting hectic at the shop. Preparing to close down in a couple of weeks so, we're scrambling to get our shop cleared out in time. Anyway, just to update my last post, oil passages are good. Now that I have my Shop Manual in hand, I found out the oil passages are independent from each other. Blowing through the oil filter return confirmed that the main passages are clear. So, if anyone finds this, I'll be more than happy to share my manual if you need some specs. VERY helpful and extremely detailed. I plan on reviving some dead unanswered threads I came across that I can post the specifics for to help others along the way. I may even scan it in to convert it into PDF. I recorded and crunched some numbers on the bores and the conclusion is the engine is pretty worn out. From a professional stand point, it should be sent off and have new liners pressed in and completely gone through. Problem is, the cylinder liners are very expensive. They no longer carry anything in an oversize, otherwise, I would just have it bored over. So once the liners are worn that's it, they're done, unless you find some matching parts. I decided to go ahead and risk it and just push forward with some deglazing and no machine work. Who knows, it could last a long time if taken care of before needing a proper, complete overhaul. I didn't hear any piston slap, which is my concern at this point. For parts, I HIGHLY RECOMMEND looking up NCW Tractor first for any of your tractor parts needs. I was quoted over $600 for Rod Bearings, Pistons Rings, head gasket, T-Stat Housing, T-Stat, and Rad Cap. NCW was able to get me everything except the T-stat housing for less than half that amount with 2 day shipping. Head gasket was only $57 versus $149 at some places. I have a business neighbor that is going to make up a new T-stat housing from aluminum for me. I have been taken pics along the way, just haven't had the time or energy to get them edited and posted. I plan to start the reassembly tonight, only part i'm really waiting on is the water pump. Should be in today or tomorrow. Radiator is ready to be picked up from being cleaned and repaired. I also pulled out the cute little injection pump, over the weekend. The governor was a bit stiff but after cleaning and soaking the whole engine inside and out in WD-40 it freed up nicely. The injection pump was the primary culprit for the runaway. The fuel rack was stuck wide open. With some thumb pressure it popped free and is working as it should now. Cleaned it up and soaked it in WD-40 and it's now smoother than glass. The head came out okay, still had some rust under the soot on the upper end, but most of the harden carbon had come off. I'll try to get some pics up and maybe a first start video up this weekend. :thumbsup:
 
 
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