Satoh S630D Runs Away!

   / Satoh S630D Runs Away!
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#21  
She LIVES! :dance1: Just got'er back together last night and decided to give it the first crank to be sure all was well before going any further. Unfortunately my decision to not have the head professionally disassembled and cleaned bit me. There was just too much carbon build up in and around the valve area to try to get cleaned up completely. The intake valve on cyl 1 was having a hard time seating during the first try. I finally got it started and thankfully it started lighting off on its own, and after some coughing it cleared up and runs smooth until it got up to full speed. I then could tell it had a steady miss, but after doing a final valve adjustment, it cleared up, exhaust was tight. Now I'm suspecting the injector is fouled, which I'll be surprised if it weren't! It seems to be getting less fuel than the other, especially at lower speeds. You can tell by how it surges a bit and it doesn't help the governor is a little sluggish either. As it fuels more it suddenly exaggerate and lights off hotter and harder. Then as it defuels to compensate for the sudden added power, the cylinder drops out more than it should putting to much load on cyl 2, then the cycle repeats. It's really more pronounced at slower speeds. Once around 1200 rpm's or more it runs steady, just tricky with the governor's very slow idling down response, takes awhile to shut down too. However, it seems to be getting better the more it runs. It now starts right up, idles on its own, revs up, doesn't smoke much at all except when starting and heavy acceleration. My plan is to get it warmed up and run it for a bit and see if it cures itself with some seafoam. Waiting for the T-Stat housing that's being custom made. Should have it by Monday and I can finish up the cooling system. Went through the wiring, replaced the ignition fuse, funky looking things, good thing there was a spare. Found that the PO for some reason cut the lead wire to the glow plug element, not sure why. It appears that the ignition switch may not be working correctly. All circuits only have power in the on position, and couldn't find anything with power in the heating position other than one but it powered on both positions. Had a heavy duty momentary starting switch sitting around that I wired in off an open post on the ignition. That way it the switch is only hot when the key is on. Bypassed the element because the coil is broken. All seems to be working as it should, 10.5v at the glow plugs while drawing power of course. Came out good, there was already an open hole to use where another switch was that's long gone. Got some pics and vids I'll post and link up once sized and edited before long.
 
 
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