Scope problem

[N80]

Oh, and thanks for those links. Good stuff there and apparently this is a common issue. I have no plans to pay a gunsmith to work on this gun and I'm not going to bed the receiver or anything like that (although Dad used to do it all the time). So, I might remove the contact points in the fore end of the ugly synth stock and see what happens.

 

[RobertN]

At work we have torque drivers that take screwdriver bits. Very common to see inch/lb values. Brownells has torque stuff; I did a search on "torque" at their site and came up with lots of stuff. Sears had a variety too.
MAGNA-TIP® PRESET TORQUE DRIVER | Brownells

For torque, I web searched "rem model-7 torque" and got lots of info.
Model 7 guru's - LongRangeHunting Online Magazine
I can't copy the link, but the Remington page has a PDF of the Model 7 an 700 owner manual, and lists torques.

Torque Specifications for Gunsmiths | World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools - BROWNELLS

You should be able to check for any pressure point by just running a dollar bill between the barrel and stock; no need to take the action from the stock.

I was just now reading about the pressure points designed in the fore ends of Model 7 stocks. I noticed these on the synthetic stock when I took it off but I did not look at the wood stock but from what I was reading all Model 7 stocks have some sort of contact point out toward the end of the stock.

I'll check to see if there is clearance with the wood stock but I'm not ready to pull it out of the stock again since I might shoot some other ammo through it soon. Plus, this particular Remington synthetic stock is butt ugly and the wooden stock is unusually attractive for such a low end rifle....and yes, I still like a pretty rifle even though most of mine are in synthetic stocks. The newer synthetic stock on the 7mm-08 is nice looking.

As far as torque specs, what kind of tool do you use for that? I'm not even sure where you'd find the spec.

Carmichael recommends tightening the front screw all the way down and then the rear screw. I did them incrementally back and forth.

 

[N80]

Thanks, I had no idea those tools existed.

 

[RobertN]

Might start by reinstalling in stock with no modification, taking care to bolt it in to proper torque spec. Put 5 rounds thru it and see. Then take pressure point out, and torque properly. Then 5 rounds.

Might check the torque on th escope mounting too
Torque Recomendations - LongRangeHunting Online Magazine

So, I might remove the contact points in the fore end of the ugly synth stock and see what happens.

 

[RobertN]

I have also used torque screw drivers with a mechanical gauge.

Many CPU heatsinks in computer servers are torqued 8-12 inch/lb. When doing thermal mechanical characterization, it is important to keep that value at a constant.

There is a large variety, and price range from moderate to real expensive.

Thanks, I had no idea those tools existed.

 

[EE_Bota]

I have also used torque screw drivers with a mechanical gauge.

Many CPU heatsinks in computer servers are torqued 8-12 inch/lb. When doing thermal mechanical characterization, it is important to keep that value at a constant.

There is a large variety, and price range from moderate to real expensive.

The other day, I saw a scope mounting kit for not too bad a price that had all the lapping gear, the level-level device, and a torque screwdriver and various bits appropriate for gun usage. A man with several guns/scopes may consider going that route.

 

[N80]

Yes, it might be worth getting a torque driver. They are not expensive but the ones in the link are not adjustable. Looks like you have to have one for each setting. I suspect the adjustable ones are pricey. But it sounds like the range or specs is pretty small so I'd probably only need a couple.

I did check the barrel on the wood stock. As mentioned, there is a contact point about an inch from the fore end. Otherwise, no contact anywhere else.

I think I'll definitely try what Robert mentioned above about proper torque on the synth stock, shoot a few rounds and then relieve the pressure point at the end and shoot a few. I would prefer not to modify the wood stock.

 

[EddieWalker]

Since it comes back to zero all by itself after sitting awhile, it doesn't sound like you are doing anything wrong or the scope is. Its looking to me like you have a very light barrel that doesn't do well with heat. I wouldnt touch anything on it again, and then do a one shot an hour test on it. I don't know if you have that sort of time, but it would tell you a lot about what the barrel heat is doing to your accuracy.

Without changing anything else, I would also try a different ammo. Probably several different brands and weights of bullets. Every rifle has it's perfect load, and just because one rifle shoots one brand well, doesn't have anything to do with the other. Kind of like people and how they react to different foods.

From everything I've read, you are following all the steps and doing everything right. There is only one variable left. Your ammo.

Eddie

 

[N80]

I had said earlier I was not willing to spend any money on this gun. But, as I also mentioned, this is getting sorta fun, and I do have another .308 I wouldn't mind experimenting with. Sooooooo.......what ammo should I try? I've only ever used Remington Core-Lokt bullets or on a rare occasion I'd get a box of Federal Premiums with Nosler partitions for Christmas or a birthday. I will probably stick with 150g bullets. Don't need 180g and don't really need anything smaller. I'm open to ideas. Primary game is deer, occasional pig, rarely a coyote.

 

[EddieWalker]

I like Federal, but that doesn't mean it's right for your rifle. It might be, but the only way to find out is to buy a few and try them. I found with my rifle that 165 grain BTSP bullets work very well. Again, you have to try different types to find out what works the best for you. The biggest mistake you can make is to not try something.

Eddie