Screw In Tire Studs

[curvecrazy]

I'm using Koldkutter ice screws on my 2wd 23HP tractor right now. It was that or install the big stupid aggravating chains on the rears which always find a way to rub on the fenders, although they do provide good traction they are a total PITA to put on and I would avoid doing so if possible as its completely aggravating. So just today we had 10 inches of powder snow I had to get through and not just that but up a steep slope to get to my equipment. Tractor was spinning with the turf tires. I tried to make a run for it and was able to get up the slope in forward top speed but then no way to turn around to install the 3pt snowblower once there. I could not get up that slope in reverse hi or low. Ended up putting on the 1/2" koldkutter ice screws which are hardened and have the V'd heads. These do work although they will mark concrete if you spin the tires and probably blacktop too. If your garage floor is a concern get the tractor supply rubber floor/horse mats which will eliminate the problem. You can also put down other things such as cardboard depending the weight of your tractor. Mine is just over 1 ton and I never have issues just backing across concrete but again, if you spin at all it will put scratches in your concrete. I noticed this first in the springtime having not realized I spun the tire just a bit just one time in the winter. Might have been icy who knows but there was the 16th inch deep groove clear as day on the concrete. I find that in use if the undersurface is frozen these screws work great. If not frozen not so great. Because the tire can then still spin, not get traction and the ice screws dig the more. fwiw These are about $21 or so for 250 screws before shipping. My front tread isn't deep enough to use them. I tend to run these off the sides of the peak of the rear tires so they don't engage too aggressively... just enough. On the peaks they do dig in and you will go. On ice they go. That simple. If you're into spinning your tires a few might fall out. It's a balancing act between getting a long enough screw without putting a flat in your tire. The longer the screw the better they stay in.

 

[curvecrazy]

Oh, and the other thing with the chains is that when installed you are then bouncing along as you go which if you're using the blower makes skimming the blower more difficult and it always seems to bounce at exactly the wrong instant and cause the blower to dig into the gravel drive! At least that's been my experience. There is no bounce with the screws. I have turf tires and discribute two rows of them one tread block out from the peak centerline of the tread. You could go full centerline too but run more risk of damaging things like concrete. If you use these on hard surfaces they will wear down over time. Not an issue as they are easily removable with the proper bit. Otherwise, grab what is left with a flatnose plier and twist it out. I take em out in the summer and install again in the same holes in the winter. Using a cordless drill with torque setting right to just enough works great to put em in initially. You may have to go round and re-tighten occasionally. Keep an eye on em see if they are loosening. I find if you put em top center of tread those tend to loosen easier/quicker than offset. Just my experience. These are not a bad thing to keep a hundred or so of on the tractor in a compartment with a hand driver in case you get in a situation. Easy to put in on the spot and may just get you out if we are talking ice then definitely will get you out. LOL

 

[Ralph Copp]

This year I also added the Maxigrip studs to the rear tires of my LS 7010. I don't expect the studs to work as good as chains but I have to travel about 10 miles on roads cleaning out drive ways so chains are not an option. If I didn't live in such an area with hills I probably wouldn't need to use studs or chains. I do use chains on my MF 135, but it is only 2 wheel drive. I put 200 studs in the rear tires and yes they are not cheap. I just hope the rear ones stay in as good as the ones on the front. None of them have came out. I have an old John Deere 510B backhoe but it is useless for clearing snow if you have any hills to deal with. Also when I put the 7010 in the garage I lay down cardboard paper so the studs don't mark up the concrete floor. We just had over 100 mm of rain, what a mess. This is one time I wish it had of been snow.

 

[thirdroc17]

I'm considering this option also. My BX2670 came with R-4's, which are way to stiff for summer use. Since I have a pair of 26x12-12 turfs in the barn, and some wheels that might fit the front, I'm hoping to end up with 2 sets of wheels/tires. Turfs in the summer, the R-4's w/screws/studs in winter. A floor jack and impact wrench will change all 4 wheels quicker and easier than putting chains on and off, or running in/out a few hundred screws/studs. This means a lot to a wrecked back and worn out hip.

Now my thought is, but I've been unable to find the size I need, a tire reliner on the inside of the R-4's so I can run longer screws/studs into them without leaks. History has proven, if I have 5/8" of tire thickness, and use 3/8" long screws, I'll have 200 little leaks in each tire. Shorter screws that work for everyone else, will fall out and wind up in my car tires, and more flats. Just the way it works for me.

Years ago, more than I care to remember, we cut down an old road tire, used that and about a roll of duct tape, inside the tires on the motorcycles. Shorter screws that only hit rubber came out, but with the liner, longer screws that got into the plies of the tire stayed. I'm thinking the same will hold true on the tractor.

Tire sizes are 26x12-12 on the rear, 18x8.50-10 up front. Has anyone seen reliners for tires this size? I do have some old tires out there that could be cut down for the front tires, maybe the rears too. Cost matters, and reliners aren't cheap. Regardless, it'll be next summer before it's warm enough to do any of this.

Food for thought for now.

 

[drizler]

I cant help wonder about how difficult they will be to remove at the end of winter with the head worn down, especially the sheet metal screws. Also, with my luck, my wife would get a flat on her car by picking up a thrown screw, then I would be 'screwed'.

Oh NO you wouldn't:smiley_aafz::hissyfit:.........................for a long long time:banghead::banghead:

 

[RalphVa]

I used regular metal screws (with hex heads) into the Ag lugs of my Gravely tractor. Didn't have much experience with them before I sold the Gravely after buying the JD though. At that time, some people were saying they screwed metal screws into motorcycle tires for racing on the ice.

Ralph

 

[Green Acres Homestead]

I have an L4740. I asked two deanships do they put chains on these tires with 2 inches of clearance. Cannot get a straight answer and can't even seem to get a price on a set in my area so I guess because of frustration of trying to get a set of frigin chains that will work I am just going to the hardware store to get some self tapping sheet metal screws.

 

[drizler]

If you need something absolutely disgustingly hard try some Tapcon screws. They are spendy in a small box but probably not so terrible in bulk. I'm sure it wear is anyone's worry they would last far longer than standard screws. They do come in hex drive heads too.

 

[Oldpath05]

When comes to these self tapping drilling screws and concrete screws, I'm wondering if there only heat treated on the screw tip and not the hex head, and even if they was harden/heat treated screws, I don't think there as hard as a carbide/cobalt drill bit, which can drill through a truck leave spring, a regular drill bit can not.
But on the other hand, I don't think my Aquiline Talon ice tractor chains are made of carbide ether just harden steel links and studs, I guess that's why I'm here looking for +/- for chains vs. studs on the front L3400 tires. I just like to have a little more front traction on packed snow and ice without breaking something. So far I found out is these carbide screws might be way to much $$$ for my front AG 7-16 tire, probably need 100 per tire, more reading and thinking required.

 

[k0ua]

I thought about the carbide tipped tire screws, but there is always the danger of spinning them out, and then you have a built in flat tire hazard on your own driveway. I decided against them, not because I thought they wouldn't work but because of my perceived danger. Whether my fear is reasonable or not, I am not 100% certain. But I opted for the chains, which work well. But you notice the bumpy ride on dry surfaces, and the snows this year here have been few and far between.

Also the chains on my tractor just barely clear ( I could really profit from wheel spacers) and have to be kept as tight as possible to work at all, which is a PITA. I put the things on in November just before a predicted snow storm, and they storm wasn't really even worth plowing and we havent had one that was since and now it is the second week in FEB. Of course last winter we were up to our butt's in snow and worse yet ice. At this point I wished I had just siped the tires and not mounted the chains this winter, but winter is not over yet, and we typically have our worst storms in late Feb, and Early March. In general, winter sucks, and specifically snow and ice suck, big time. I know I should not complain, as some of you put up with a whole lot more winter than us "southern boys" can even dream of.