So I did a thing... Agria 8900D

[ptsg]

I've thought about it but it would only work for non PTO powered implements. Anything that uses a PTO, will just get in the way.

The PTO gearbox on this tractor bolts on like an add on, so it sticks way out the back. Adding to that, the PTO shaft that actually gets used, sits too low. It's very easy to get the PTO shaft on a bind due to excessive angles and that also puts the PTO shafts almost inline with the arms.

Shims to adjust the spacing between the arms and the vertical sliding plate are my only option right now.

 

[airbiscuit]

 

[ptsg]

So the other day, I noticed the alternator getting way too hot and them letting out the magic smoke. I went and grabbed my ammeter and it was drawing nearly 3 amps with nothing On.

Turns out the rectifier just decided to quit. After a long time researching, since there is virtually no numbers on the alternator, I found a replacement rectifier.

This also brings me to the topic of the starter. Ever since I got it, the coil will do this weird thing where it pushes the bendix out but as the motor starts spinning, it will go back in, which causes a lot of grinding noises. I've opened it, cleaning everything inside, checked everything, including taking the coil apart and checking and measured the coil resistance. All good but still does this weird thing like every 2 times out of 3 attempts.

Anyway, I've started working on the tiller. Lots of fabrication work on the cover. The mechanical part is surprisingly in good condition. Just needs new seals and a good clean up. Oh and the bottom of the gearbox has worn out quite a bit. I'll add some plates to give it a fighting chance.

 

[MTGreen]

I probably missed it early on in the thread, but that top PTO shaft I'm assuming runs at double or half speed?

 

[ptsg]

I probably missed it early on in the thread, but that top PTO shaft I'm assuming runs at double or half speed?

That top PTO shaft runs double the speed of the bottom shaft and it's a smaller 1 1/4" 6 spline shaft. The bottom is the standard 1 3/8". The top is always engaged. All the time. Unless you press the clutch.

Since the High/Low range + Reverse gearbox is before the PTO and 1st to 4th gears, both PTO shafts have essentially High and Low range + Reverse on top of the 540 + 540Eco on the bottom shaft.

Kinda of a different setup and one does need to be aware that the PTO shaft will spin in reverse, when the tractor is going backwards. Some implements can get damaged doing so.

 

[ptsg]

Some more pictures on the tiller. Mainly the gearbox.

All the shafts on this tiller use a labyrinth style seal, for the lack better word. Not an actual seal, but create the same effect since the flanges have this lips sticking out. The seals are behind that labyrinth and are just standard rubber seals.

Input shaft. As you can see, not leaky at all. It dumped all the oil on my trailer during the entire time I was working on the tractor.

The other end of the gearbox. Note the wear on the bolt heads and actual gearbox from dragging on the ground for who knows how many hours. The bottom bolt wore half way through the head and even exposed the hose on the big flange. I will add some material using flat bar.

The internals of the gearbox. Really in fantastic shape. Gears and bearings are perfect. It actually uses bigger bearings than my big tiller.

Today I got all the seals, a new U joint for the super short PTO shaft this uses and some more kerosene to use on the parts washer so I can wash all these parts.

Not an huge fan of these tillers with the gearbox in the center but with this tractor, that actually works well. Since the tines are "open" in the sides, it lets it steer with the tiller still on the ground very easily.

 

[ptsg]

Remember my ordeal with the charge light and the need for a diode? Well, turns out that light was doing it's job perfectly all along. It was telling me that was something wrong with the alternator. I should've figured that out since just about everything in this tractor was broken in one way or another.

Yesterday I got my replacement rectifier. Put it on the alternator, tested it and worked perfectly. Then I bypassed the diode and sure enough, the light goes out as intended.

I removed the diode since that would actually preventing me from knowing if it was actually charging or not.