ning
Elite Member
Maybe turn the locker handle upside down?
So I did a thing... Agria 8900D
- Thread starter ptsg
- Start date
airbiscuit
Super Member
- Joined
- Aug 28, 2004
- Messages
- 5,850
- Location
- NW Wisconsin
- Tractor
- New Holland T2310, Kubota L3010 GST, New Holland TC21DA, Farmall H *** Previously - 1941 John Deere B, Shibaura SD1500, John Deere 850, Bobcat 642, New Holland 1925
After all that work, that blocked tach would bother me. Can you relocate the STOP knob and put the tach in the far NW corner?
MTGreen
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2022
- Messages
- 983
- Location
- Montana, USA
- Tractor
- Deere 5220, Ford 1720, Deere Progator 2030
Could also just cut the handle portion of the lever down to half height -would be a lot less effort to achieve the same functionality and aesthetic
2manyrocks
Super Member
- Joined
- Jul 28, 2007
- Messages
- 7,323
You've made it back into an awesome tractor. Not many people could do that.
OP
ptsg
Super Member
Appreciate all the suggestions. I can't turn the lever down because the way it's built.
I did bent the handle down a little bit and it did help some more. I'll still keep it that way and it's not really an issue. All in all, the only lights I need to see are the oil pressure light and the charge light.
Speaking of charge light, is it required to have a diode between the ignition and the charge light? The reason I'm asking is because without the diode, the light will keep lit although, very very dim. If I rev up, it will become brighter. Checking with the multimeter, the alternator is charging very well.
The only way to make the light go out entirely is with the diode.
I did bent the handle down a little bit and it did help some more. I'll still keep it that way and it's not really an issue. All in all, the only lights I need to see are the oil pressure light and the charge light.
Speaking of charge light, is it required to have a diode between the ignition and the charge light? The reason I'm asking is because without the diode, the light will keep lit although, very very dim. If I rev up, it will become brighter. Checking with the multimeter, the alternator is charging very well.
The only way to make the light go out entirely is with the diode.
Topzide
Gold Member
When you put the diode in the circuit, does the light come on when the tractor is off and key on? If so, this is what you want. If it's not able to tell you when it's stopped charging, then I would look at a way to make that happen. What does the factory wiring show?
OP
ptsg
Super Member
Yes, the light turns On with the ignition On and will turn off once the engine is running and it's charging. With the diode it works as it should.
Checking some online diagrams, none refer to the diode, that's what made me wondering.
The factory wiring got mostly melted at one point and there was a some extra wires because this tractor came with the alternator mounted behind the flywheel and an external regulator. Then someone jerry rigged the alternator mounted on the fan shroud.
No wiring diagram anywhere to be found, so I'm doing everything from scratch.
K5lwq
Elite Member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2017
- Messages
- 4,692
- Location
- Mineola, TX
- Tractor
- Kioti LK2554, Branson 4815C, Satoh Beaver, Speedex
I do not see a problem with using a diode. Should work just fine.
Topzide
Gold Member
I'll second the diode being added to function correctly.
OP
ptsg
Super Member
And she is pretty much done. Just missing the 3 pt linkage. That will be the next step or maybe I'll tackle the tiller first. I want to try the tiller as is first.
The diode did the trick and it's working exactly as it should. Even as I shut down the engine, the charge light will turn on as the RPMs start dropping.
I did change the seat mounting. Added an hinge at the front so I can flip the seat up. I should've done that from the get go as it gives me so much more access. This also raised the seat slightly and now I can see the dashboard perfectly fine. The locker lever will only cover the "0" on the tachometer.
The electric part is all done. Front lights, rear marker lights, brake lights and left/right indicators front and back. Not technically necessary as this tractor doesn't have license plate and title, so it can't really drive legally on the roads but the lights do give a more completed look to the tractor.
Adjusted the fuel delivery plate to give more fuel as it was doing this kind of breaking up/missing at 2500+ RPM. The adjustment does seem to have fixed that.
The diode did the trick and it's working exactly as it should. Even as I shut down the engine, the charge light will turn on as the RPMs start dropping.
I did change the seat mounting. Added an hinge at the front so I can flip the seat up. I should've done that from the get go as it gives me so much more access. This also raised the seat slightly and now I can see the dashboard perfectly fine. The locker lever will only cover the "0" on the tachometer.
The electric part is all done. Front lights, rear marker lights, brake lights and left/right indicators front and back. Not technically necessary as this tractor doesn't have license plate and title, so it can't really drive legally on the roads but the lights do give a more completed look to the tractor.
Adjusted the fuel delivery plate to give more fuel as it was doing this kind of breaking up/missing at 2500+ RPM. The adjustment does seem to have fixed that.