Split clutch or shear pin, how to tell?

[radios1]

the shear bolt should have broken before the shaft, something's wrong.

 

[TMGT]

the shear bolt should have broken before the shaft, something's wrong.

Looking at the picture I'd venture to guess something bent it while it was sitting still , doesn't look like a torsional bend.

Maybe lifted it with the pto shaft disconnected and it caught on the draw bar?

OP, hope you can get by with just teppqcong the tractor side of the shaft

 

[ruffdog]

If it is only slightly bent, get it straightened by a person with a press.

 

[Fallon]

Judging by the rust on or near shear pin, it might be worth removing the shear bolt and greasing the surfaces. If the Yoke where the Shear bolt and shaft rust together, your shear bolt will be useless and your run the risk of breaking something on the tractor side.

FYI... A slip clutch will look something like this on the PTO shaft.
FD1 PTO Slip Clutch-1-3/8" 6-Spline

Do you care to comment on how you bent the shaft?

As a FYI, here is the slip clutch on my tiller. Every spring I have to loosen all the bolts & springs holding it together. I then jam a couple 2x4s into the tines & fire up the PTO. With nothing but rust holding it together the clutch still transmits enough power to break 1 or 2 2x4s. Once it breaks free, you tighten it a little then fire up the PTO briefly to let it slip a bit & clean off the rust. Then tighten it back up to spec. If you don't do that at least once a year, it will be rusted solid & never slip when you need it to.

I was pissed my dealer sold me a sheet pin mower rather than the clutch based one I wanted. But I found that out a couple years after purchasing it & never doing the annual clutch maintenance. As I never sheered a pin, that was my far the least maintenance option & actually what I should have had. Sheer pins are only bad if you break them occasionally or frequently.

It may be of value to pull the sheer pin & make sure things aren't rusted solid. Depending on how you bent your shaft.

 

[Fallon]

As a FYI, here is the slip clutch on my tiller. Every spring I have to loosen all the bolts & springs holding it together. I then jam a couple 2x4s into the tines & fire up the PTO. With nothing but rust holding it together the clutch still transmits enough power to break 1 or 2 2x4s. Once it breaks free, you tighten it a little then fire up the PTO briefly to let it slip a bit & clean off the rust. Then tighten it back up to spec. If you don't do that at least once a year, it will be rusted solid & never slip when you need it to.

I was pissed my dealer sold me a sheet pin mower rather than the clutch based one I wanted. But I found that out a couple years after purchasing it & never doing the annual clutch maintenance. As I never sheered a pin, that was my far the least maintenance option & actually what I should have had. Sheer pins are only bad if you break them occasionally or frequently.

It may be of value to pull the sheer pin & make sure things aren't rusted solid. Depending on how you bent your shaft.View attachment 658281View attachment 658282

Oh, and I just realized that photo of the clutch is with all the bolts & springs that hold it together removed. There should be 6ish bolts going through with some 1.5" springs on them under the nuts clamping the plates together.

 

[RalphVa]

It's a shear bolt, not a pin. That first picture of yours is it.

Ralph

 

[thunder86]

Here's how I bent it. Unhooked everything but the pto... when I drove off the two came apart and when it came time for me to back up I bent it....
Only the one half is bent rest is fine. Its gonna cost around 90 dollars.

 

[LouNY]

Quite often those shafts are just pined in the yokes,
and you can purchase just an inner or outer replacement tube.
PTO Shaft, PTO Parts, PTO Adapter, PTO Power Take Off, Eurocardan

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Most shaft profiles with inner and outer profiles, take profile part number and do internet or ebay search. Not the full length profile for less then what Land Pride wanted for the 18inch stub for my tiller.

https://neapcocomponents.com/images/catalogs/2001ptocatalog637.pdf

 

[TMGT]

Here's how I bent it. Unhooked everything but the pto... when I drove off the two came apart and when it came time for me to back up I bent it....
Only the one half is bent rest is fine. Its gonna cost around 90 dollars.

90 isn't bad, I just had to buy a tractor side shaft assembly for a Weaser shaft (bought a piece of equipment at auction and that part was missing), it was a little over $100.

If you can figure out the brand/series you should be able to match it up and find the assembly cheaper or just the tube/yoke and reuse your coupler and u-joint.