Spray Painting Impliments???

[Sully2]

Ok..calling all spray painters!...lol

Im geting ready to lay the paint on the set of discs Ive been cleaning up. Everything is de-rusted and well primed and I bought my paint..."impliment enamel" from TSC..and also their recommened thinner which is Naptha! ( The other is mineral spirits but the Naptha makes it dry quicker) Also I've their "hardener" to make the paint more durable.??? I have a close friend what will help me thru this whole "wreck"...lol

HE says we need to cut the paint 50/50 with thinner...keeps the gun from clogging...makes the paint dry quicker..etc..etc. BUT..the label on the paint says to NOT thin more thin 8 ounces PER GALLON!!!! Duhhh! I certainly dont need nor want to be stopping all the time to clean the gun nozzle...but then I dont want to waste my time sprayng something that has the covering power of "India ink" either?

Any of you old time spray painters got any suggestions??

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I don't know specifically what ratio I mix paint at, since I do it "by eye", but I'd say more like 25/75 or 30/70 (thinner/paint) 50/50 will give you about zero coverage. Be carefull with naptha in hot temps. It will dry too fast. That won't let it flow once it hits the surface you're painting. That usually results in massive orange peel.

BE VERY CAREFULL when using hardener. (polyisocyanite) (sp?) deadly stuff. You need a fresh air system. Charcoal mask isn't near enough. With even very slight exposure you can develope symtoms of asthma or worse. It can be absorbed through the skin. That stuff isn't for amatures.

 

[Sully2]

Good input...really good input! If its too thick..I can always stop and thin it some...but if I start out too thin...then Ive got a real PITA!

I knew the hardner had to be kinda "wicked"...after just reading its label......but at 85 dgrees here..we'll be painting everything OUTSIDE...the "natural" fresh air system.

Thanks again!

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Good input...really good input! If its too thick..I can always stop and thin it some...but if I start out too thin...then Ive got a real PITA!

I knew the hardner had to be kinda "wicked"...after just reading its label......but at 85 dgrees here..we'll be painting everything OUTSIDE...the "natural" fresh air system.

Thanks again!

Even painting outdoors, be VERY carefull with that hardener. Just a breath of that stuff can have lasting effects. Some people are far more susceptable to it's wrath than others.

 

[rswyan]

but at 85 dgrees here..we'll be painting everything OUTSIDE...the "natural" fresh air system.

Ever get SuperGlue on your hands ? Real hard to get off .....

Now imagine breathing it into your lungs.

Cause that's what it is (basically)

Painting "OUTSIDE...the "natural" fresh air system" ain't gonna get it - the wind blows the wrong way and you suck up a big (or not so big) breath of that stuff you could be heading for the hospital.

You need a positive pressure fresh air system with a mask.

 

[GaryCrowell]

50/50 is WAY too much thinner, think more like 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint in the hotter temperatures. Thinning doesn't have anything to do with whether or not the nozzle clogs, filtration does. If you properly filter the paint then the gun won't clog, no matter how thick or thin it is. In this hotter weather naptha is most likely too fast drying, I'd opt for mineral spirits. The best thing to do is look at the paint manufacturers chart for the temperature you're spraying it at. I'd bet the naptha is for the colder temperatures.

The paint will be much more durable with hardener than without. However, it is a farm implement and it's meant to be scratched, I don't know that I would spend the extra money on hardener for something that's just going to get beat up the first time you use it. On the other hand, I wouldn't be too concerned about health issues if you're spraying outside, you have to get a pretty good dose of the stuff before it hurts you. Most hardener is urethane based, not isocyanate. I can't swear that yours is, but most likely it is. Wear a decent mask and you'll be fine.

 

[Sully2]

50/50 is WAY too much thinner, think more like 1 part thinner to 4 parts paint in the hotter temperatures. Thinning doesn't have anything to do with whether or not the nozzle clogs, filtration does. If you properly filter the paint then the gun won't clog, no matter how thick or thin it is. In this hotter weather naptha is most likely too fast drying, I'd opt for mineral spirits. The best thing to do is look at the paint manufacturers chart for the temperature you're spraying it at. I'd bet the naptha is for the colder temperatures.

The paint will be much more durable with hardener than without. However, it is a farm implement and it's meant to be scratched, I don't know that I would spend the extra money on hardener for something that's just going to get beat up the first time you use it. On the other hand, I wouldn't be too concerned about health issues if you're spraying outside, you have to get a pretty good dose of the stuff before it hurts you. Most hardener is urethane based, not isocyanate. I can't swear that yours is, but most likely it is. Wear a decent mask and you'll be fine.

Welll I dont want it to dry TOOOO fast...but would like to hit it with 2 full coats this evening. The Valspar brand sold by TSC is the "wicked stuff"...(isocyanate)

And yes..I agree a 50/50 mix seems WAYYY to much..especially after reading the hardner can and seeing it ALSO has some Naphta in it.!!

We'll just be spraying the bearing hangers and housings this evening ( black) and do the frame assembly later on this week ( Kubota orange) and then we can get it all bolted back together this weekend.

We did his old JD corn planter ( 2 row) about 6-7 weeks ago..and he was real picky on that job...and then gives me a ration of CRA* about ME being picky on this "dirt chopper"...lol....but I figure with a good solid coat of good paint on it...its gonna last me as long as I have a tractor.....so its worth an extra hour or 2 or 3 to get it looking good.

 

[schmism]

Thinning doesn't have anything to do with whether or not the nozzle clogs, filtration does. If you properly filter the paint then the gun won't clog, no matter how thick or thin it is.

While technically true, still not the best advice for painting. At issue would be the flow rate of the paint. what IS true is you cant get the same amount of thick material through a 6mm "primer" nosle as you are a 2mm "finish" nosel.

without enough material flow through the gun youll never be able to keep a wet edge because your paint dries to quickly.

 

[Timber]

Well 50/50 is not correct at all Paint is usually 3 to 1 and hardener is usually 8 to 1 everything depends on humidity and temp. Do yourself a big favor and go buy a respirator at an auto parts store for $25 bucks. There are a lot of things to use these for these days. It is the same cartridge used for most pest control spraying. Hardener and reducers are nasty products. To get the best information on the ratios on your paint mix ask the supplier. There always willing to help. Make a phone call the day your gona paint so you have the temp and atmosphere conditions. Also evaporation equals gloss so you don’t want it to dry too fast. It will usually be about 20 minutes between flash coats.

 

[rswyan]

Most hardener is urethane based, not isocyanate. I can't swear that yours is, but most likely it is.

Any two part polyurethane paint (primer, basecoat, or clearcoat) likely contains isocyanate, formulated into the hardener or catalyst. If it's the TSC brand hardener for their brand paint we are talking about here it is isocyanate - I've read the label myself.

On the other hand, I wouldn't be too concerned about health issues if you're spraying outside, you have to get a pretty good dose of the stuff before it hurts you. Wear a decent mask and you'll be fine.

Well personally I think the above is bad advice ...... if you want to know why try reading the info at the following links:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/asthma.html
entitled "Preventing Asthma and Death from Diisocyanate Exposure"

or there is a wealth of material (including the above linked document) at:

http://www.osha.gov/SLTC/isocyanates/hazards_solutions.html
entitled "Isocyanates: Hazards and Solutions"

There is data on the effectiveness of cartridge-type respirators at the above URL. The NIOSH recommendation is for a supplied-air respirator - not a cartridge-type.

Anyways, as always, it's your health and your call.