Spray Painting Impliments???

[Farmwithjunk]

That BPS brand paint from TSC works easy, but isn't the highest grade paint you can get by any stretch. I've used it quite a bit with mixed results. It fades quick if left out in the sun. (especially red and orange) For something you don't want to be painting again in a few years, try one of the "name brand" paints such as DuPont. Even in their lower end enamels, you get better UV protection. Also, on naptha as thinner. It will react with some other thinners and/or paints. (So will any "hot" reducers) That may cause the underlying paint or primer to "raise", giving you an alligator hide look. (NOT what you want on a hood.)

Anyone who does their own paint work owes it to themselves to try a better line of paint than plain ol' machinery enamel. There's a bit of a learning curve, but in no time at all, your results will "reflect" (literally) the efforts.

Just about any auto paint supply store will be able to match any color you can name. NAPA even carries good automotive quality paints.

 

[bjr]

I have the $40 HF gun. Just love the quick clean up. And, no, it don't get the delux cleaning the rest of you guys do. I'm a blow an go painter. Stuff just gets the color changed with a few runs, but it don't rust at least. Mostly just paint implements and one tractor so far.
Has anyone bought extra 20 oz cups yet. How much? I need a new one. probably ran 8-10 gal. thru it at 18 oz at a time. I used some of the water based primer the other day, seem to work okay. bjr

 

[Sully2]

I have the $40 HF gun. Just love the quick clean up. And, no, it don't get the delux cleaning the rest of you guys do. I'm a blow an go painter. Stuff just gets the color changed with a few runs, but it don't rust at least. Mostly just paint implements and one tractor so far.
Has anyone bought extra 20 oz cups yet. How much? I need a new one. probably ran 8-10 gal. thru it at 18 oz at a time. I used some of the water based primer the other day, seem to work okay. bjr

The METAL cup (20 oz) for MY HF gun was $16...but I saw 32 oz cups at the store..for the same price.

 

[Sully2]

.. It fades quick if left out in the sun. (especially red and orange) For something you don't want to be painting again in a few years, try one of the "name brand" paints such as DuPont. Even in their lower end enamels, you get better UV protection. Also, on naptha as thinner. It will react with some other thinners and/or paints. (So will any "hot" reducers) That may cause the underlying paint or primer to "raise", giving you an alligator hide look. (NOT what you want on a hood.)

Anyone who does their own paint work owes it to themselves to try a better line of paint than plain ol' machinery enamel. There's a bit of a learning curve, but in no time at all, your results will "reflect" (literally) the efforts.

Just about any auto paint supply store will be able to match any color you can name. NAPA even carries good automotive quality paints.

Oh...NOW you tell me it fades easy...LOL

But your right and I will take a piece of Kubota tractor wiht me and get it color matched with "better paint". ( and the proper thinner for it also)

 

[Soundguy]

Ahh.. a gravity feed gun.

I prefer a syphon style.. but whatever works for the individual painter is the way to go.

Soundguy

Here's the cheapie I used

# 91009-OVGA

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Oh...NOW you tell me it fades easy...LOL

But your right and I will take a piece of Kubota tractor wiht me and get it color matched with "better paint". ( and the proper thinner for it also)

In all likelyhood, any good auto paint store will have the formula for Kubota Orange in their system already. Most of the name brands already have that figured out. I've bought Massey Ferguson Red, Flint Grey Metalic, and Silver Mist, John Deere Green and Yellow, Ford/New Holland Blue and White, New Holland (before Ford) Red and Yellow, Oliver Green, and Caterpillar Yellow mixed to DuPont specs and they all matched perfect.

I still paint some things with TSC or Van Sickle paints, but after trying some "high end" paints, I won't use cheaper paint on tractor sheet metal any more. The results are that much better. (LONG TERM results especially)

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Ahh.. a gravity feed gun.

I prefer a syphon style.. but whatever works for the individual painter is the way to go.

Soundguy

Try a gravity feed HVLP gun sometime. They'll make a believer out of you. 2 features stand out. One is they're MUCH easier to clean up when done. (saves GALLONS of thinner over a lifetime) #2 is they don't "spit" when the paint starts to run out. Being able to use at much lower air pressure enables you to paint with a smaller compressor. Also nets less orange peel if the paint isn't thinned "just right". JMHO, they're better for beginner or amature painters like myself.

My results with a Home Depot bought "Huskee" HVLP gun are better than with my Sharpe Platinum siphon gun (10X price difference)

 

[Soundguy]

The hardner -REALLY- helps the BPS paint when it comes to UV durability, gloss, and chip resistance. I painte dmy JD B with no hardner. In addation to taking 8hrs to cure, the finish was not as good as my other tractors with hardner, and it has shown some signs of fade where it has seen sun for a few years... ( though it does buff right out back to 'new' look ).

The other posters are right though.. BPS is an economy paint.. There are a couiple cheaper ones.. and many more expensive ones. BPS is an alkyd enamil.. old tchnology.. but it works ok.. and fits my budget fine. Newer technology examples would be acrylic and modified enamils.. synthetics, and epoxy based paints and primers, urethanes.. etc.. each have their own 'rules' and specific chemicals. Some paints won't cure at all without an activator.. etc. Some primers have a time windoe that you must surface coat them within to ensure paint adhesion. There are also some neat additions like fish eye addatives for some of those newer paints.. etc.

soundguy

Oh...NOW you tell me it fades easy...LOL

But your right and I will take a piece of Kubota tractor wiht me and get it color matched with "better paint". ( and the proper thinner for it also)

 

[Soundguy]

The main reason i go with a syphon gun is I do just a little out of position painting.. Not sure how those gravity feed guns would work laying on a side.

So far I havn't yet had any orange peel.. but then.. i have an old piece of metal laying out at the bar that get's my first sprays as i test my thinner and air settings. It's easy to tell when my gun is empty.. the aluminum can is so light.. when i can't feel a 'slosh' when making my side to side sweeps.. i know it is time to refill.

I hear ya on the cleaning. I use a few oz of MS in the cup, slosh and dump into my 'waste' paint catch bucket, then I add another few oz of ms to the cup.. wipe down the syphon.. and spray that out to clear the gun. Wipe down again.. then add 3 oz of naptha.. again.. spray out till clear on a white paper towel, then slosh the rest, and wipe the exterior o fthe gun down and clean the nozzle. I'd guess that is almost a 8 minute ordeal.. Gotta have a clean gun though.. a dirty one is useless...

Soundguy

Try a gravity feed HVLP gun sometime. They'll make a believer out of you. 2 features stand out. One is they're MUCH easier to clean up when done. (saves GALLONS of thinner over a lifetime) #2 is they don't "spit" when the paint starts to run out. Being able to use at much lower air pressure enables you to paint with a smaller compressor. Also nets less orange peel if the paint isn't thinned "just right". JMHO, they're better for beginner or amature painters like myself.

My results with a Home Depot bought "Huskee" HVLP gun are better than with my Sharpe Platinum siphon gun (10X price difference)

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The main reason i go with a syphon gun is I do just a little out of position painting.. Not sure how those gravity feed guns would work laying on a side.

So far I havn't yet had any orange peel.. but then.. i have an old piece of metal laying out at the bar that get's my first sprays as i test my thinner and air settings. It's easy to tell when my gun is empty.. the aluminum can is so light.. when i can't feel a 'slosh' when making my side to side sweeps.. i know it is time to refill.

I hear ya on the cleaning. I use a few oz of MS in the cup, slosh and dump into my 'waste' paint catch bucket, then I add another few oz of ms to the cup.. wipe down the syphon.. and spray that out to clear the gun. Wipe down again.. then add 3 oz of naptha.. again.. spray out till clear on a white paper towel, then slosh the rest, and wipe the exterior o fthe gun down and clean the nozzle. I'd guess that is almost a 8 minute ordeal.. Gotta have a clean gun though.. a dirty one is useless...

Soundguy

I've painted 3 tractors so far with the HVLP Gravity feed gun. It took a few minutes to get used to spraying "upside-down", but by the time I'd finished tractor #1, I wasn't having any troubles. Trick is to not let it get more than 2/3rds empty when gun is tilted very far. I like the lower operating pressure
when painting odd shaped surfaces (like a tractor chassis) There's not a lot of overspray to give you a "cloud" to work in. That also helps to NOT wasts so much paint. Last tractor I painted with a siphon gun was identical to the FIRST tractor I used the HVLP gun. I used over a quart LESS paint.

You make trade-offs with either.

I bought the Sharpe Platinum as a paint gun and the HVLP as a primer gun. So far, the Sharpe has been used one time, then back in the box.

I've got a Binks paint pot/gun that my dad gave me years ago. I'd like to get it working someday. It has a 2-1/2 gallon capacity pot, connected to the gun with a 25' hose. It'd be nice to just start spraying and not quit until the job is done. Down side? Much more equipment to clean up. (Guess what part of painting I DISLIKE the most?)