starting a Stihl saw

[SWB]

John,

I re-read your post (and probably will continue to do so many more times) and I know you answered the question about starting the saw once they are warm. Mostly you described the larger saws, and I don't think I need the pro models, but are you suggesting that the 260pro is the smallest I should go. Are any of the smaller, less expensive models suitable for my needs (described in my last post) and do these generally behave like the more expensive ones as far as starting easily, etc. Thanks again.

Steve B.

 

[Theowegian]

I really enjoyed reading your post. You really hit the nail on the head about the reasons to go with a PRO saw.
Please, at your convenience, provide us all with a cool sharpening method...we'd most love to hear about it.

dwight

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

OK, I'm back - the carpal tunnel surgery went very smoothly, but the bandages are going to slow me down a bit and I'm still a little sore. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

Dwight, Daryl, great to see you both! Thanks all for the kind words, I wish I could do a "mind-meld" and save all this typing, but I'm happy to share as best I can.

No Daryl, we won't mention your "love bite". /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif I feel like taking a page out of Norm Abram's book and say - "But first, I want to talk about chain saw safety"! Just a reminder that chain saws have GOT to be the single most dangerous tool you will ever use. Please treat them as such, they can really screw you up. And hey, I want your old 028, I'm quite serious. PM me and name your price, I'll pay the shipping. I miss mine! I hear you on the heated handles - I'm going to get them on my next 460, I wish you could get them on the 660 and 360. I definitely use the compression release on the 066/660, as you know it would be murder without it. And thank god for that Elasto-start handle (shock-absorbing rubber thingie built in). For a while there I had a normal handle on the pull-start, and when that thing kicked wrong, it would almost break my fingers. The "kicking wrong", a sudden recoil where maybe the engine actually fires backwards?, also causes the hard-starting situation where you have to pull-pull-pull to clear it back out.

Greg: Any of the Stihls start great, especially when warm. Really not much difference except on the big ones (460 and up) which as I said require a little extra vigilance on starting procedures. I can't say that the MS210 wouldn't serve you well, but I have to recommend the 260 Pro. It's 50.2 cc's as opposed to the 210's 35.2 cc's, which is kinda marginal for power. The venerable 028 is a great all-around saw and is around 54 cc's. For comparison, the 360 (361 now) is 59 cc., the 460 is 76.5 cc., the 660 is 91.6 cc and the 880, like the saw that Daryl tangled with (or was it the other way around? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif) is about 121 cc. The 260 Pro is going to cost at least $100 more than the 210, but I urge you to get it for the compression release, the Intellicarb (very important), the great power-to-weight ratio, and of course the longer life. You would love it, I guarantee.

More to come, including the chain saw sharpening "secrets" - wooohooo! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[midlf]

There are times I have trouble starting my warm 361. To cure the problem I just fill the gas. There is some in there but it does not seem to be enough to run the saw or get picked up for some reason. Now if it is warm and will not start on the first pull I know to fill it.

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

Hiya midlf, interesting (in a bad way) that you AND beenthere are having some problems with the 361 (the latest version of the 036/360). Sounds like the California (C.A.R.B.) standards might have struck again. I'll have to watch for that when I get a replacement for my stolen 036 Pro that you can't get any more, or maybe just look for a good used 036 Pro on Ebay. This is one of the only problems I have ever heard of with Stihls starting poorly, with the possible exception of the MS200T climbing saw. Great saw, but mine never started exactly the way I would like.

 

[ScottAR]

Since the 066 is your favorite, Can you tell me the difference between the 660 and the 650? All I can see is a smaller displacement engine on the 650? Why for? /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif

650 is for the peoples republic of California?

 

[CT_Tree_Guy]

<font color="blue">650 is for the Peoples Republic of California? </font>

LOL, I love it.

Funny you should ask, I was just talking to a logger friend of mine about the 650, and as near as we can tell it's just a slightly stripped-down, slightly cheaper version of the 660 and to us represents a total waste of R & D money. Not sure if it has to do with CARB (California Air Resources Board), but I tend to doubt it. CARB changes are either already built into the 660, or would be found in a model that would probably be called the 661, god forbid. I recommend the 660 - it's the real thing baby, uh-huh /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[SCOOBY14B]

I have an 029 FARM BOSS that is about 5 years old. Actually started it for the first time in over 18 months this morning. We had a bad ice storm and had some cleanup to do.

Emptied the gas in it and replaced with fresh. As ALWAYS....choked it and pulled 4 times until it hit. Moved the switch one position up and it fired on second pull and run like the day I bought it.

ONLY problem I had was one day about 2 years ago it would not fire at all. Took it to dealer and the electronic ignition had went out. There is a lifetime warranty on the part, all I payed was about $30 labor.

Everything I have is Stihl and no problems yet on any of them.

 

[DrRod]

Three comments on various things mentioned above.

a) When I bought my saw I had to sign a safety thing that listed stuff I wouldn't do -- the one that stuck out to me was drop starting. This is one safety thing that is worth following because it really is risky. I have a neighbor with a massive scar on his face from drop starting a saw that then hit a beam and flew up on him. You just can't control it during a drop start so please don't do it.

b) My Stihl manual says to use high test gas. I'll bet very few people ever use high test gas and its one of the reasons saws are hard to start.

c) One of the main reasons saws are hard to start is that the gas is old. A lot of people use a saw periodically and then put it away for months. The gas sits around in the saw and in the gas can and ages making it hard to start.

Just my thoughts.

 

[RobertN]

I never mix more than 1 gallon of gas, so I usually always have fresh stuff when I use trimmers, blowers, or saws. I always use premium gas, and either Husky or Stihl premium oil. As I mentioned in another thread, my arborist buddy explained it this way. These chainsaws and trimmers are 10,000rpm high performance engines. Give them all the help they can get.

The oil breaks down too, after mixing. If it is not good enough for pro motocross racers to use after 24 hours, then it's probably not best to use older mix in that 10,000rpm chainsaw either...

And, yes, CARB is from us here in the Republic of Kalifornia... I had to replace a CARB carb on my Stihl trimmer. CARB carb cost $125 or so compared to a regular carb at about $50. We have it tough, but we also have some nasty smog too.